Peoples definitions are different, and anything can break under conditions they're not supposed to break. Nature of the game....and some people just jump on the band wagon of ttb bashing when they don't know much about anything.

That said, you might not have been told wrong, just different perceptions from diff ppl. The fact of the matter is, there are infinitely more 44 ttbs out there that have held up to 35s than have exploded solely because of them...

Gearing? Ohhhhh right, what you do when you don't have power! Add the turbo!

3.73 and 35s is probably optimal, maybe 3.55s if you like blastin on the highway. This is after the turbo of course.

 

4.56 would probably be good enough for you if your wanting to regear

 

Thanks guys, i am going to look more into putting a turbo on this guy. How do they tun the computers that are pre OBDII?

 

Take a look at this: Playing with the ECU (Brains) - Route 66 Hot Rod High

Its for a 2.3L but it is referring to OBDI.

 

There are a few ways you can go about it...you can run stock speed density, run check valve to the map sensor, and run an fmu (google fmu to learn about it) to increase fueling under boost. This is the system used in the old days when vortech made a charger kit for the speed density mustangs. It works, but it is far from optimal and very difficult to manage part throttle boost. It is very simple though. People have integrated gm ' map sensor that can read positive pressure as well as negative...but changes will have to be made in order to do that.

Another way is to find someone who can burn a chip for speed density. Very hard to find someone who's willing, and even more difficult to find someone who has experience and competence on the matter. They can change the fuel and timing map, which would make it a little better, but still difficult to manage fueling under part throttle boost.

Finally, it's convert to mass air. I'm not sure which system is best to run, but there are a lot of donor options available. Just from reading turbo i6 threads, donors can be 6 cylinder rangers and taurus'...maybe even 6 cyl mustangs. I know some later computers can be used in different cylinder configurations but i don't think the old ones have that option with tuning. . .if they do then a mustang system will work. There are mass air 300s from the factory, but they're rare, relatively speaking. I think 96 was the only year the f150 got maf, except California models with I believe started in 94.

I'd even like to build a turbo 300, but i can't build em all...if I ever won the lottery it's all I'd ever do in my heated mansion of a shop.

I'd suggest you read some turbo 300 threads....familiarizing yourself with what's been done and how they did it will make you want one more, I think. It's very easy and cheap using nothing but donor parts and your time of course.

 

Thanks for this info. I know TTBs have kinda been a hit miss game on whom got the good ones and I always found it funny the people whom bash on them because we only have one straight axle truck and it is a 02 F250 but the rest are TTB and I beat the crap out of them on these backroads (their is a lot of times I am doing 40MPH on these washed out backroads) and haven't had any problem. (Knock on wood) LOL.


Turboing the 300 would be sweet. If I end up getting my dream bronco (87 4x4 M5OD 300 I6) I would end up doing that. However right now I am looking into custom turboing a 4.0L Ford V6 to stick in something.
Trav

 

Nothin beats a ttb for rally-esque driving...it's why a lot of people run them in their race rigs. They do need more attention than a dana 60, with all those u joints, but just like anything you gotta pay to play. I miss my d50 all the time, and if I didn't have dana 60's layin around that I've collected from the jy and partouts, I would have rebuilt it when u joints wore out.

 

I agree. Reading your last few posts have led me to believe that it depends on your application of driving. For example me driving these backroads everyday and then get on the highway the TTB probably best but others who may be building something like rock climbing (which I do offroad but I rarely ever do rock climbing it just isn't my thing I am mostly a mudder and trailer) are better to have straight axles.
Again I thank you for the information you have given me it has made me rethink a few things I might want to do to my truck.
Trav

 

Yep, it's all about what ya wanna do. If you don't want to take advantage of a ttb, or are doing something where it's advantages don't apply, then d60 all the way. Running huge tires through mud holes, by all means d60 all the way. Wanna go fast, ttb the way to go. Most of the ttbashers don't know much about anything, and have pavement pounders that take up 4 spots at the mall, so ya can't take them into account.

 

that is exactly why I want a D60 in the 92 f250.
Anyways sorry for getting your other off topic thread off topic Matt. LOL
Trav

 

No worries man i its knowledge we can all use! It definitely gave me confidence in the ttb because obviously i read nothing but bad usually lol. I am going to stick with it and i think rebuild it in a few years since she is a little worn out. I will be doing trails mainly no mudding because we have lots of trails around here and maybe some very mild crawling. The ttb sounds like its going to be good for that.

 

See that is pretty much what I will be doing but some light mudding. I mostly would rather abuse the 92 F250 for the big stuff.
Trav

 

Yeah I'm in tbe same boat, like i said before i wanna build a crazy buggy with spare metal and time eventually for crawling and stuff lol. The 95 is my work/trail truck.

 

I just realized my most recent pic is of it when it was in my backyard still lol here are some from about a month ago before we got all this damn snow! She definitely needs new tires i thought the old ones off my 04 would be fine but i backed into the street in and needed to have my brother push me because i couldn't get traction to start moving forward in 4x4 lol. Thinking about a 4-6" lift and some 35 's from tread wright. I was going to use my 04's old springs so i should get roughly 3-4" in the rear from that alone but we will see. I will need some spacers or something to kick the tires out about .5" they currently rub the radius arms at just a tad before full lock and they contact the bumper valance but that is an easy fix that i have yet to do lol.

Also my brand new wipers dont work for crap do those springs help at all that they sell on the bronco graveyard? i would rather replace them more often from the increased pressure than not be able to see in any weather lol.

 

I love that truck. It has a lot of potential Of all of your projects, its the one I am most excited for lol.

Since we often bitch of salt and corrosion and rust, I present this to you. What color were my rear tires again?



On another note, there are Fumminsez for sale in my area. The are prettty sweet!

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/4861933962.html
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/4861405323.html