Ok guys just an update on the truck, two weeks back i picked up a crate for work and there were loose screws everywhere. Turns out one found its way into my right rear tire but i wont be getting the tire patched because all the tires are very old and very bald lol. So the new plan is to get a 4" lift and some 33" tires and get it all out of the way now. I will probably try to get this all done in the next month or so because spring is around the corner and i am planning on doing some serious yard work.

 

If you are going to lift it, do yourself a favor and order the alignment bushings now. You will almost certainly need them when you alter the geometry of TTB suspension. It will save you from destroying expensive tires.

Something like this MOOG K80108
More Information for MOOG K80108

 

Thanks! Even with extending the radius arm mounts you think? Either way better safe then sorry.

 

I'd still say yes. If you kept stock radius arms, the springs and drop brackets would have to increase by the exact same amount or the caster will be thrown off. In my case, I replaced the radius arms and they really messed with the caster.

Either way, I have found that alignment shops don't seem to take the time to align TTB properly. I had them check my Ranger's alignment, give me the report and I set it myself using maths and scrap paper. Seemed to workout pretty well. You can have the shop set the toe-in and don't forget an extended pitman arm. With the altered steering geometry, it can also cause bad tire wear.

 

Hey guys, small update on the F150. I picked up the cap i got a while back for free form my coworker and i am going to modify it this summer to have a trim piece to fill the gap left, taper it accordingly so it fits the truck, build a roof rack, add some lights for the sides and rear as well as paint it to match so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. I dont like the look now but i think if i can make it look like I envision in my head it will actually turn out great.

 

Well guys my sister-in-laws car crapped out and we had promised her our Focus because my wife now has the BMW but since the BMW still is not done my wife and I had to jumble the DDs around. The Focus is now gone which means my wife gets the Expedition and the F150 is now my DD for the time being. On that note I feel like it will be a while until the BMW is done so the F150 will be getting some love to make it more reliable than a weekend work truck. Seems like every time I drive it though for more than a week something breaks lol.

I added some reverse lights and fixed my emergency brake on the drivers side this weekend. I also installed new door speakers that I've had for quite some time. Following all this my radio stopped working again and my rear view mirror fell off lol... anyway pics! I used the predrilled holes and tapped into the reverse lights (I know one lights out).

Also here is my list of driveability and reliability mods I'll be doing once this semester ends and my budget opens up again...haven't had any play money since December, had to stop traveling and working OT for school.

Driveability/Reliability: (these are in no particular order anything mechanical will be done first)
- rear driveshaft ujoints
- new clutch
- new tires 33 or 35...not sure
- fix radio
- rebuild steering to get rid of slope in wheel
- 4 or 6" lift
- cut out flares (fenders are all rotted not worth saving might go 4" lift, cut outs, 35s)
- cab visor
- cab lights
- 15+ Chevy tow mirrors
- custom fabbed bumpers
- new paint (very unlikely I'll get to this prior to winter/bad painting weather)
- SD steering wheel
- vinyl floor

 

You've still got my attention

 

Still watching just not on here as much always busy. Honestly I would do 33s if a DD. One thing I have noticed driving a lifted truck daily is when trying to move slowly and turn sucks and being a daily in parking lots I see that more. Also 33s will wear less parts only reason I haven't lifted my bronco or 88. Check by the steering gear box to make sure the frame isn't cracked pretty common and when it happened to my 88 it felt like steering slop.
Trav

 

Same, i keep trying to do stuff with the trucks but my budget went out the window once i bought the house and focused on that instead lol.

My frame is actually cracked on the passenger side...forgot about that...gotta fix that too, its just behind the spring bucket.

I am actually leaning more towards 33s i dont want 35s but my fenders and rear bed arches are all rusted so i figured id cut them out and thought a 4" with 33s and cut outs might look too small lol. I am going to resue some of the F250's parts though like lift blocks and springs to do the lift so I'll see where i end up and go from there.

Forgot to add a new rag joint/intermediate shaft to the list...damn it just keeps getting bigger.

Well at least I'll be posting more again since ill have some budget back after the OT and my trip to Sweden next week for work

 

So i took some measurements this morning because i never really did and i am thinking I'm going to go with a 6" lift i am currently at 35" in the front and 39" in the rear and that's ground to top of fender arch. I really want to swap in my old SD springs for the added capacity and the stiffness because my current ones are really worn and wrap in first gear all the time. If i install the SD springs I'd expect another 2-3" based on what I've seen people get out of them so that would put the rear at 41-42" which is a 6-7" difference front the front so if i go 6" up front i will be at level or just a tad raked to the front.

I also wanted to swap in my PMF 5" blocks but I think that will be way too much rake and I'm not going higher than 6" because 6 is already tall lol. what is the stock block height on these trucks? I've been looking this up forever and cant find it i measured something like 1.75 but i feel that's wrong and it should be 2" or 1.5".

 

I'd suggest lifting the front to where you want it, then focus on the rear, then align it. When its all said and done, it is a lot of trial and error getting the right look, stance, and ride. You can always adjust the front with coil spacers, but you only have so much to work with because of the stud the spring bolts to. The rear is easier to swap blocks/add-a-leafs in and out of.

One thing I can tell you is if you use the SD springs, get a can of Slip Plate and coat the sliding surfaces to help make the springs ride better. Worked wonders on my Ranger when I put the Explorer springs under it. Here is the build of the springs for reference: Project Little Green Turd - Page 52 - The Ranger Station Forums

Finally, I'd recommend Ruff Stuff Specialties for the u-bolts and spring retainer plates for the rear. They are over sized, grade 8, and very reasonably priced. Especially if you wait for a sale (up to 20% off).

 

Awesome thanks for that info! I'll have to do that. That is a good point about lifting the front though, the rear is easier and the front can easily be adjusted after the fact. I think i will end up running a 6" lift with 35's in the end, i realyl watn to get this project on the road though so i can have it all done for summer and the nice months of driving. MY wife has the Expedition and i feel like i will be stuck with this guy as my DD/work truck for a while lol.

Also i forgot to add i accidentally ripped off the 4x4 shift lever last night...so i gotta fix that lol.

 

One other thing I thought of.... get the drop pitman arm. It is required for good alignment and to reduce bump steer. Even if the kit doesn't include one, get one. I have 3" of front lift and went with a 2" drop arm. I am guessing you'd want a 3-4" drop arm.

Also, get the dual concentric adjustable camber/caster bushings. They are also required to get a good alignment. The single bushings don't work very well after the truck has been lifted because the caster is now out of whack.

This is a very helpful article I have read about 50 times to get all my issues sorted out...
Steering Tech - An in-depth discussion about TTB Steering and Alignment

 

Thank! I read that with 4" you can simply bolt the tie-rods to the top of the knuckle vs the bottom and anything above 4" you need a drop so i was assuming i could get away with a 2" arm if i go with a 6" lift...might just be worth getting the pitman arm. Once i do this i am basically replacing all the worn out parts so i should have good handling again which woul dbe beyond nice to have right now i have 1/8 turn of slop an di know its because of my rag joint but I'll be replacing all that at the same time.

 

Just posting to say I have the same truck excepts it's 4x4 with automatic transmission. All factory other than tire size. It calls for 265x75's but I'm running 32x11.50's on it. I would post a picture of mine but I just came in from working on the rear brakes and don't feel like going back out to take a picture.

Anyway, keep up the good work.