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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 10:04 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by Guzzo
the bolts are pretty new looking, i dont want them to break!


Then use an Impact gun to remove them


They shouldn't Break I mean there in an Aluminum intake manifold they would have striped out long before it torqed out high enough to Break the Bolt

The only catch is if they may have used thread Locker on them

so an Impact gun, a Six point socket,little Wd-40 or PB Blaster,Warm engine up and Go for it

If you do all that and it breaks theres not really anything else you could have done

Say a Prayer and Offer a Virgin to the Bolt GODS LOL!!!

I don't think they will break

Every Bolt on a auto has torq spec but with that small bolt in aluminum Just like 04badford mentions Hand Tight is OK DONT GO GORRILLA on it LOL

Gaskets All usually have a Crush-N-Seal Factor so replacement is Best but You will be Fine either way
 
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 10:11 PM
  #107  
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From: Sandyville Wv
Originally Posted by BLADE35
Then use an Impact gun to remove them


They shouldn't Break I mean there in an Aluminum intake manifold they would have striped out long before it torqed out high enough to Break the Bolt

The only catch is if they may have used thread Locker on them

so an Impact gun, a Six point socket,little Wd-40 or PB Blaster,Warm engine up and Go for it

If you do all that and it breaks theres not really anything else you could have done

Say a Prayer and Offer a Virgin to the Bolt GODS LOL!!!

I don't think they will break

Every Bolt on a auto has torq spec but with that small bolt in aluminum Just like 04badford mentions Hand Tight is OK DONT GO GORRILLA on it LOL

Gaskets All usually have a Crush-N-Seal Factor so replacement is Best but You will be Fine either way
ok, why the hell would they put thread locker on them! I will pray tonight, pray tomorrow and then try again! can i use a rag to ripe the egr down? i dont want to use a brush because i need to keep the o rings in tact some pb and wd and a rag maybe a toothbrush!
then just set it back in!

by the way i heard a metal coat hanger will work well. if mine is lodged in there ill try that and pull with all i got! i dont have two jimmy bars, all my tools are still in storage or at work, so im limited on what i have to work with!
 
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 10:12 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Guzzo
thats what i want to do! sounds like a plan. i guess i will just go stock. i suppose i should in time change my headbolts at some point no matter what though?


The Best thing is to do the Relieability MODS FIRST before you Tune it

Coolant filter
High output alt
ARP studs
Metal impellar water pump

and so on
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 07:05 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
The Best thing is to do the Relieability MODS FIRST before you Tune it

Coolant filter
High output alt
ARP studs
Metal impellar water pump

and so on
That makes sense, I will I suppose add those if I decide to time. Didn't really know. Good morning everyone!
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 07:23 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by Guzzo
That makes sense, I will I suppose add those if I decide to time. Didn't really know. Good morning everyone!
I HIGHLY recommend a fuel pressure gauge as one of the FIRST things you add to your truck. It's probably the most expensive but it's also protecting the most expensive maintenance item on your truck--the injectors.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 07:29 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I HIGHLY recommend a fuel pressure gauge as one of the FIRST things you add to your truck. It's probably the most expensive but it's also protecting the most expensive maintenance item on your truck--the injectors.
Does that come with the scan gauge 2 or separate?
I just replaced #7 injector. Was a little off. What should I be looking for n the gauge? If seperate what kind should I buy? Before I get a time I will have my dash and scan gauge full of gauges and pids. Also will have learned my truck a lot more and can feel for her weakness. Seems like I need to do that first.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 04:22 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Guzzo
Does that come with the scan gauge 2 or separate?
I just replaced #7 injector. Was a little off. What should I be looking for n the gauge? If seperate what kind should I buy? Before I get a time I will have my dash and scan gauge full of gauges and pids. Also will have learned my truck a lot more and can feel for her weakness. Seems like I need to do that first.
Any OBDII gauge package will not read fuel pressure or EGT's because there is no sensor on the truck for those. I have an autometer electric gauge/sender since I already had those before the SGII came out. There are several brands that are cheaper/cooler than the basic I have. Some things I prefer analog gauges on (boost and EGT's ) since they respond and are easier to read very quickly. Engine parameters are fine in digital.

FWIW--there are so many gauge options out that it's just better to sit down and shop. I'm sure you'll get a lot of good options from other members.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 06:14 PM
  #113  
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You Should at least install the Blue Fuel spring All it will do is Help

Cheap ins.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 06:20 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Guzzo
thats what i want to do! sounds like a plan. i guess i will just go stock. i suppose i should in time change my headbolts at some point no matter what though?
Tune it you should be OK just don't go crazy with Power

Worse case you install ARP studs sooner then planed on

Originally Posted by Guzzo
ok, why the hell would they put thread locker on them! I will pray tonight, pray tomorrow and then try again! can i use a rag to ripe the egr down? i dont want to use a brush because i need to keep the o rings in tact some pb and wd and a rag maybe a toothbrush!
then just set it back in!

by the way i heard a metal coat hanger will work well. if mine is lodged in there ill try that and pull with all i got! i dont have two jimmy bars, all my tools are still in storage or at work, so im limited on what i have to work with!
IDK why they would use thread locker on them they Probably Didn't

Crazy stuff comes threw here sometimes who knows what the Last guy did ya Know

A Coat hanger does Work to get EGR Out
But the 2 Bars work Lots Better Iv even seen guys take straight blade screwdrivers and bend a 90* or so on them and do it like that


Where is the BIG DIRTY VIDEO
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 06:40 PM
  #115  
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Hands down Best way to get the EGR Valve OUT SUMOFABITCH LOL


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/QpWhH9jMayg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 06:56 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by 04badford
No torx on the EGR bolts, just snug them down, also becareful with the flanges.
Snug would be just that, 10pds or less , Remember tight right loose left
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 07:33 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Hands down Best way to get the EGR Valve OUT SUMOFABITCH LOL


<IFRAME height=315 src="//www.youtube.com/embed/QpWhH9jMayg" frameBorder=0 width=560 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>
sonovabitch.... that was funny!
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 07:34 PM
  #118  
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I was in Tears the first time I saw that

I couldn't believe they actually made that thing
 
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 10:53 PM
  #119  
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hahaha!!!

hey what is that black cap looking thing, it is on the right with a square on the top of it?

i found fuel in the top of that square... ????
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 10:52 AM
  #120  
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Smaller cap with the 1/2 drive in it??would be the Upper fuel filter


SOunds like its leaking and may cause Low fuel press in turn killing injectors

can you see it leak with the KOEO fuel pump running
 
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