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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 03:41 PM
  #1  
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From: Sandyville Wv
Codes Icp Help!!

code: P2285

Injector Control Pressure Sensor

Circuit Low

Can i buy the cheaper After Market Injector pressure sensor or will that fail too?

Is This a Serious Problem?

Is it something I can do Without Taking it to a dealer?

Can I do it myself?

Edit:

Can someone tell me the start up procedure for cold weather? how long should i let it start? how warm should it register on the dummmy gauge?

and more about the starting and warming parts please.

Can someone give me a Diagram to what it is?

Where it is? I know there is two of them but how do i figure out which one it is?

I do not think it is the one under the turbo.

Is the turbo supposed to be loud going down the highway? sounds like it is revving higher then the truck is going. is my exhaust coming out the back of my truck supposed to sound like it is sucking? it isnt really pushing much out maybe a little. more sucking.

And it black smokes a little smoke when i put the pedal on it. Can i get that to go away?

Any help would be appreciated.

If you need my phone number to talk if it is any easier just let me know ill post.

My email as well.

thank you.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 03:58 PM
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Also How long should it take on start up, from me turning key to on position, waiting two seconds or so ( on my own part to let glow plugs heat up ) THen when i turn it over, it takes 2-3 seconds to start. Is that Normal?

This is a question i have seen and seen answer to

Question: ------"We just got a diesel Ford F250. How long should the engine warm up before putting the truck into gear? We live in a mild climate (not too cold, not too hot). Also, should the engine be left running for brief stops (5-10 minute stops)? Or should it just be shut down like a normal gasoline engine?"-----


Answer:-------" It is best to let the a diesel engine warm up before you take off. And how long?...depends on the outside temp. I let the thermostat on my 7.3 register at least to the "C" mark or a little above. If you do take off driving without letting it warm up, take it easy until it warms up. It will save your injectors, pistons, and piston rings in the long run. And if you are able to leave your truck running and locking the door (not sure what model you have....some vehicles wont allow you to lock the doors with key in the ignition) I would do that. Starting is the roughest part on a diesel especially in the cold weather. This will also save you injectors. Also, it is bad to just shut off your truck after running it, as soon as you stop. The EGT's (exhaust gas temp) needs time to cool down to 300*F. This will save your turbo. You can actually buy an electronic module that will allow you to turn the key off and lock the doors....but it will wait for the engine cools down before it shuts off.

This goes for all pick-up diesel trucks"------



NOW FOR MY QUESTION ON THAT:----- Is that all true, What is considered a cold start? 40 degrees? How do i let my truck cool down? just idling?

Is it really hard on a diesel to just shut it off for 5-10 minutes? Or should it just run?

What Electronic Mod is he talking about?

If you have anything to add on what he said or new if he is wrong .

Thanks

Joey
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 04:54 PM
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These Guys will Blast me But I don't hardly let my truck warm up before I drive when its really cold I might plug it in just so its somewhat warm

Been doing that for Years Now if it was so Bad I would think I would have broke Down by now

What year is your Truck??

you can unplug the ICP sensor and try to start it
If it starts or there is OIL On the Plug then replace ICP sensor clean pigtail
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 04:55 PM
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And so begins another 6.0 education. don't sweat it, hopefully we'll help ya zero in on the issue quickly. Man, you just brought this thing home!

First off, what year model? There are some differences in the engine through the model years but the biggest one happened mid year 2004.

ICP issues can leave you on the side of the road. If your handy with a wrench and can beg, borrow, or steal and OBDII scanner that reads live data you can fix it yourself. It helps to have the body of a gymnast also, laying across the radiator to work in the engine compartment can get you into so pretty awkward positions.

On the start up, I think we all have our own "procedures" but the important things are... The glow plug light on the dash is referred to as the "wait to start" light. As a minimum on a cold start (engine hasn't been running for a few hours, even if it's 80* outside), wait for it to go out before engaging the starter. It won't blow up your engine if you don't but always wait for the light to go out. Interesting glow plug fact- they stay on even after the light on the dash goes out, up to a couple of minutes. It can be a bit longer after the light goes out if it's very cold outside. Once it running, if everything is right and depending on outside temps, let it idle for at least a couple of minutes before dropping it into gear. I like to watch my ScanGauge coolant temp (ECT) and generally let it idle to 100*+ if the weather is warm and 120*+ when it's colder outside. It won't take long for you to get a feel for what your truck likes. The temp gauge on the dash is general info at best. If that's all you have it should be starting to come up before you drop it in gear. The trans may be slow to shift when you first roll out, don't sweat it, the shift points are determined by the computer. Once the truck has some heat in it the trans will smooth out. You can encourage it to shift by lifting slightly on the throttle, I don't exceed 2k rpm on the tach until it's up to 150*+. After that point, just remember don't get on it hard until is up to full temp.

The location of the ICP depends on the model year. There is only one. The ICP tells the computer what the psi of the High Pressure Oil System is. The IPR is a valve the computer opens/closes to change the pressure to meet fuel requirement. The ICP will be under the turbo on the earlier engines and on the passenger side valve cover on the later models.

The exhaust on these trucks can sound like a fighter jet especially if the Cat and or muffler is removed. Unique sound for sure but of course it should have exhaust coming out of it, not sucking air in. Check some you tube videos, some guys love that sound

Black smoke is usually incomplete combustion, commonly too much fuel but there are other causes. It shouldn't do that with the exception of maybe just a puff when you tip in the throttle hard.

Some handy links:

Acronyms
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/821641-acronyms.html

Engine Pictures and info:
Powerstroke 6.0L Technical Intro Manual
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 04:57 PM
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I run 5-40 synthetic it helps

Oh I make short trip a lot TOO LOL

Guess I do it ALL WRONG LOL
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
These Guys will Blast me But I don't hardly let my truck warm up before I drive when its really cold I might plug it in just so its somewhat warm

Been doing that for Years Now if it was so Bad I would think I would have broke Down by now

What year is your Truck??

you can unplug the ICP sensor and try to start it
If it starts or there is OIL On the Plug then replace ICP sensor clean pigtail
consider yourself blasted Benny! (Lol) Thats terrible advice to a new owner.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
consider yourself blasted Benny! (Lol) Thats terrible advice to a new owner.

IM SORREY LOL

Been a Rule Breaker my whole Life
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 05:22 PM
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My Dad, and one my brothers are "crank and go" guys. But they like MOPAR stuff also so it doesn't bother me much .
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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Ya know I got thinking about it and IIRC LPO is about 20 psi @ Idle

So with a little Higher RPM There is More LPO Pressure so might not be as Bad as everyone thinks

I do let it warm a touch when it gets Cold out 32* f or Less

I run Sythetic oil too so it maybe Lots harder on it with Dino oil
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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It's always been my general thinking that build clearances (bearings n stuff) are spec'd out for operating temps, not cold temps. When the engine is cold some are looser and not a big deal, the oil is thicker also so oil film thickness makes up for those. The problem is the clearances that are tighter. It's possible to crash through the oil film if oil supply is limited by the thicker oil and limited space between parts. Seems like a bad time to "load" those parts. I got a minute or two to let everything warm a little.

My truck is certainly happier with a warm-up. Maybe partly because it's a diesel and combustion is more efficient and partly because all the electronic sensors are closer to expected readings and actuators move more freely.

The 6.0's I've been around were all pigs when they were cold, some idled well but all of them where down on power. does your truck run well when it's first fired up?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 07:34 PM
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I can tell a DIffrence when Cold especialy with Fresh Oil

its Not to bad though when it goes into OverDrive is the worst

When it is under 32*f I set my timer on the Block heater to run 3 hours before I go and let it Idle 5 min

In the Summer I pretty well start n go I go REALLY Easy though I do **** off other drivers in the A.M. everyones running Late

The first 5 or so Years I would always let it warm up 5-10 minutes I just though I was waisting a lot of Fuel doing it though IS the Gain worth it??

Im shure your right with warm up it shure cant hurt especialy here where its Cold
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 10:42 PM
  #12  
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From: Sandyville Wv
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
And so begins another 6.0 education. don't sweat it, hopefully we'll help ya zero in on the issue quickly. Man, you just brought this thing home!

First off, what year model? There are some differences in the engine through the model years but the biggest one happened mid year 2004.

ICP issues can leave you on the side of the road. If your handy with a wrench and can beg, borrow, or steal and OBDII scanner that reads live data you can fix it yourself. It helps to have the body of a gymnast also, laying across the radiator to work in the engine compartment can get you into so pretty awkward positions.

On the start up, I think we all have our own "procedures" but the important things are... The glow plug light on the dash is referred to as the "wait to start" light. As a minimum on a cold start (engine hasn't been running for a few hours, even if it's 80* outside), wait for it to go out before engaging the starter. It won't blow up your engine if you don't but always wait for the light to go out. Interesting glow plug fact- they stay on even after the light on the dash goes out, up to a couple of minutes. It can be a bit longer after the light goes out if it's very cold outside. Once it running, if everything is right and depending on outside temps, let it idle for at least a couple of minutes before dropping it into gear. I like to watch my ScanGauge coolant temp (ECT) and generally let it idle to 100*+ if the weather is warm and 120*+ when it's colder outside. It won't take long for you to get a feel for what your truck likes. The temp gauge on the dash is general info at best. If that's all you have it should be starting to come up before you drop it in gear. The trans may be slow to shift when you first roll out, don't sweat it, the shift points are determined by the computer. Once the truck has some heat in it the trans will smooth out. You can encourage it to shift by lifting slightly on the throttle, I don't exceed 2k rpm on the tach until it's up to 150*+. After that point, just remember don't get on it hard until is up to full temp.

The location of the ICP depends on the model year. There is only one. The ICP tells the computer what the psi of the High Pressure Oil System is. The IPR is a valve the computer opens/closes to change the pressure to meet fuel requirement. The ICP will be under the turbo on the earlier engines and on the passenger side valve cover on the later models.

The exhaust on these trucks can sound like a fighter jet especially if the Cat and or muffler is removed. Unique sound for sure but of course it should have exhaust coming out of it, not sucking air in. Check some you tube videos, some guys love that sound

Black smoke is usually incomplete combustion, commonly too much fuel but there are other causes. It shouldn't do that with the exception of maybe just a puff when you tip in the throttle hard.

Some handy links:

Acronyms
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/821641-acronyms.html

Engine Pictures and info:
Powerstroke 6.0L Technical Intro Manual
it is a mid 2004 truck, i guess i will have to buy one of them dash boss or SGII like you said. it only puffs when i pedal down

i love the sound as well just wanted to make sure.

where is the turbo at?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 10:46 PM
  #13  
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From: Sandyville Wv
Originally Posted by BLADE35
I can tell a DIffrence when Cold especialy with Fresh Oil

its Not to bad though when it goes into OverDrive is the worst

When it is under 32*f I set my timer on the Block heater to run 3 hours before I go and let it Idle 5 min

In the Summer I pretty well start n go I go REALLY Easy though I do **** off other drivers in the A.M. everyones running Late

The first 5 or so Years I would always let it warm up 5-10 minutes I just though I was waisting a lot of Fuel doing it though IS the Gain worth it??

Im shure your right with warm up it shure cant hurt especialy here where its Cold
Everyones always running late.. Like a heard of cattle the is trying to get to the same place at the same time... when in reality its only a couple of minutes.

So i need to let it run for some time before i go, and i need to have a block heater.

Where can i find a block heater with a timer?

I havent had a diesel long enough to know whats cold and what isnt.
Like i said it takes 2-3 seconds a couple cranks to start it now in 40-70 degree weather. and when i turn the ey to the on but not ignite position i let it there for about 3-5 seconds before i turn it over. is that correct? Is this all normal?

I looked but didnt see a block heater cord on it? it is a 2004.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 10:51 PM
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From: Sandyville Wv
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
It's always been my general thinking that build clearances (bearings n stuff) are spec'd out for operating temps, not cold temps. When the engine is cold some are looser and not a big deal, the oil is thicker also so oil film thickness makes up for those. The problem is the clearances that are tighter. It's possible to crash through the oil film if oil supply is limited by the thicker oil and limited space between parts. Seems like a bad time to "load" those parts. I got a minute or two to let everything warm a little.

My truck is certainly happier with a warm-up. Maybe partly because it's a diesel and combustion is more efficient and partly because all the electronic sensors are closer to expected readings and actuators move more freely.

The 6.0's I've been around were all pigs when they were cold, some idled well but all of them where down on power. does your truck run well when it's first fired up?
My truck seems like it runs well. i mean what doesnt sound well? It doesnt shake or anything, it sounds like a diesel. i can put the pedal down when its 40 degrees when i hop in and go and its ***** and get time... i feel my turbo kicks in a bit early. around 1xxx rpm?.>

How long should i let the key sit in the on position before i ignite the glow plugs?
and let it run before i go?
What about when i am done driving and want to turn it off.. should i wait for something or can i just shut down?

and on stops i just go in for 5-10 minutes i should leave it running?
like i said i'm illiterate to diesels right now, and may ask to many questions but i just want to learn to keep me and my truck is good shape. and thanks again everyone for helping.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 10:55 PM
  #15  
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My block heater cord is wound up in the bumper never the passenger site tow hook. Mine came with a remote start setup from the previous owner so I let it run 5-10 min. I have not owned it thru a winter so I can't comment on the cold stuff.
 
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