Calm down man... I understand your frustration.

Yes the builder completely goes through the pumps, I have sold over 20 pumps since I started doing the 90cc's, and I have only had yours and one other come back, both times I sent a new pump. All the other pumps are working flawlessly, with happy customers. I can totally understand if your first pump was a flawed unit, but two in a row is pretty improbable, especially after your original was causing a lot of the same symptoms...

I am a little weary about the shipping damage, even though it was minor, it could have bumped the shaft enough to knock the throttle shaft slightly off kilter, which could cause an issue. I dont know how hard the package was dropped on the ground. I understand the urge to get the pump on asap, but you really should have contacted me ASAP as soon as you saw the damage, now I cant file a claim on it, or inspect it on a return to find out if any damage occured.

 

whoever designed the E40D functions,didn't design it as you describe.

i dunno what that is,but it's not even in the realm of what id call acceptable for even one trip.
if you plant your foot in it,then she's suppose to unlock and kick down,rev,boost high,and pull like a mother.not upshift and lock.
the TPS isn't any good (new or not) the voltage to it is flawed,the ground is poor,or the ECM itself needs to be replaced.
you'll never boost without the rpms.the thing will always feel like a slug.add a hot ip on top of this issue and your bound to make it feel even worse cus your over fueling while stuck in a low revved state that you can't escape from.the worse time to inject a higher does of fuel.you need to make her shift and boost correctly.
snaponprofile swapped his e40d right out for a zf5 because of these exact same issues.
it's not normal operation of the E40D trans.i wouldn't put up with it for even a second trip,let alone multiple.if you can't fix the issue,then just take it to someone who can,or swap it out for a zf5,whichever you prefer.you'll wish you did it way sooner but don't put up with the E40D the way that is.an ip from Mel isn't going to fix your trans either.

 

I think the 2 pumps being sent actually eliminates the IP as the cause of the problem.

 

Justin and I have talked a little more.....

i am going to try to turn the FP down. he said if i can get it down to at least 1-2psi then the return system is not part of the issue. I'm also gonna take the cover off the IP and see if anything has moved in there.


i also want it to be known that my post is not an attack at Justin, I am just frustrated beyond words with this thing right now.

and unlike some people i'm not made of money, nor do i make enough per hour to just keep throwing parts at something till it works, i have to get it right or damn close on the first shot, so if i am whining or complaining too much for you then leave, but you know already how much of a cheap a$$ i am right?

 

what happens when you hold WOT while starting in manual 1st and manually shift through the gears.does it pull hard and rest on the governor then?
take her out and relive some frustration and report back lol.
if she still feels like a dog,then maybe the converter is shot.
no forced downshifts can be too tight or too loose of the valve body bolts too - you mentioned someone installed a shift kit.

you know something is drastically wrong with the trans.why not start there since it's the most obvious issue?
you could be running a chipped 6.oh no and if you had (it doesn't bolt up,just theoretically speaking) your trans matted to it right now,that engine would feel like a turd too just so you know.

 

i don't know about manually shifting but holding WOT from a stop it will say high to the gov and then shift threw the gears.

 

so she's just not unlocking and downshifting when she should then.
so when you put the trans in D and hold WOT how is the performance then? if you held it WOT without letting off,will the trans eventually shift into OD or would you have to let off to get 4th?
when the converter locks up,what gear would you be in,in this scenario? is it a dreadful fall on your face event,or does the engine still pull hard even though boost falls off a bit?

 

You're not all ears because I told you to run a dedicated return from the start. My experienced guess is your issues are probably being caused because you're pressurizing the entire return system, all the way to the pump itself from running your return exactly how I told you not to. This will cause weird running issues, timing issues, AND low power. Textbook symptoms. It will also damage the injection pump, and can damage the injectors, especially when you're over pressuring it so severely.

On top of that, you have no filter before the lift pump, and you're running the return pre-filter head.

Why wouldn't I have sold you a pump? Because, $75 isn't worth the headaches and unlimited tech support. You are the very first person to ever have these types of issues with this pump, or any issues for that matter.

Its all simply avoidable but you are hard headed. From your refusal to put new up pipes on, to the transmission tuning, now to the fuel system you put together.

You also didn't mention that the pump was damaged in shipping, specifically on the throttle shaft.

 

http://oregonfuelinjection.com/pdf/s...leshooting.pdf

Your fuel return system is causing most all your headaches, and may have already caused damage to the fuel system!!!!!!

Several issues come to mind,

first- your regulator should be after the filter to keep cantaminates out of the regulator.
Second- With such a high pressure fuel system and return you MUST have a deicated return system.

If you read thru the trouble shooting guide you will notice one of the causes of low power is a restricted return system. By returning such an increased fuel flow and pressure thru the existing return system it is basically causing an extreme restriction and over pressurization in the return side.

 

The only problem I have with that statement, is your assuming that the return system is under pressure, which even with that pump, and having a 1/4" orifice size, the math comes out to 1psi to 2psi at very worst conditions... 1 or 2psi on the outlet for the pump shouldnt be an issue.

I agree with the filtering issues, but im not so sure there is a problem with a pressurized return.

 

Anybody wanna buy my new fancy lift pump and/or regulator?(serious question).

i tried to lower my FP and i couldn't get the pressure lower than 6psi. I put my return lines back to stock and put the return line off the regulator into a jug and started it up. I got about 35 ounces of fuel out of the return port off of just the regulator in about 15 seconds. i was gonna take it for a drive with the return line unhooked but i don't have a container big enough to hook to and drive at the same time. my test tonight told me what i need to know though. with a SMALLER lift pump on there it should run like a raped ape...the way it should!

So the SD pump and the reg is coming out and a duralift(or equivalent) is going in its place.

 

duplicate post

 

why sell what you have and complain about wasting time and money, when you can easily fix it. I don't get you.

 

Mr. G ftw.. or just run a dedicated return like mentioned before. Its really not a big deal, youre supposed to run out of the front tank first anyway. Also, lots of people have run the 90cc pumps with stock lift pump just fine as far as i know.

 

so what your telling me is that when i have a FULL tank of fuel in the front tank and have my dedicated return from the regulator dumped into the front tank, it's not gonna over flow?

From what i saw today, it returns way more fuel faster than it burns it.......

i still don't like the idea of drilling a hole in my tank.....