those green mr.gasket pumps don't last long though fwiw.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...asket-12d.html

i wouldn't exactly call a pump used on refer trucks old junk,but you can if you want to,iv got no stock in 'em lol.
as far as pressures go,i was unaware of such issues when running just diesel fuels.i can't comment one way or the other as i have no pressure gauge.i was under the impression this pump was rated higher than a stock mechanical so i didn't have a clue a fuel pressure gauge was much for a concern.
in fact the only concerns i was aware of,was the much higher (double in fact) the oem pressure ratings.so shows what i know lol.

the only thing i can feel is the governor on the ip if i mat her,she'll hold me back,but i'm not experiencing any sort of fuel starvation issues below the ip governor.not much help i guess without telling ya a pressure number at WOT,but if that helps any then cool.
whatever you guys feel works reliably.iv found what i like.hope you do as well.

 

Neat little project '94.
Didn't know your name was Eric!
This town aint big enough for the two of us (;
Hope my lift pump don't go out any time soon, that efuel conversion seems frustrating as heck...

 

i take it we share the same name? LOL

This only a bit frustrating to me b/c i didn't know of these possible issues before i embarked on this. Like i said before though. i am gonna try it my way first, if it works, great. if not then i will figure something else out.

 

someone over on OBN iirc removed his low pressure electric tank selector valve (they can only handle low pressure as i understand) for some mechanical valves that i guess he rigged up on the floor board or something of the cab.of course he must of used some type of dual setup for the proper return,but im sure if you search over there you can see what he did.i want to say it was user "midnight" (or the like) but it's been awhile.might help narrow it down,might throw ya off lol.
anyway,that way you could keep the proper run off and return to one tank at a time setup without a low pressure selector valve.i think this is where i would go from here if i were you.just a thought.

 

Yep. Eric here too.
Thats how it always seems to happen.
Always something unexpected

 

yeah, i have though about just running a second FSV of some kind if my plan doesn't work out. Hook it up to the factory wiring so when i flip tanks the FSV changes what tank gets the return.

 

No doubt, I have no means to comment on the longevity of the green Mr. Gasket, I only used mine for about 4 months before I tore everything down. The point that I was trying make was that the 35gph its rated for supplied my injection pump just fine, and if that was the case, it was flowing a bit more than it was rated for, however, I wouldnt have used it on any serious WOT runs or anything, it was just a temp pump after my holley blue crapped.

As far as my "old crap" comment is concerned, that was directed to the stock fuel setup of these trucks, not the Duralift, I know about as much as the longevity of the Duralifts as I do the Mr gaskets, But I have read lots about the Duralifts and corresponding pressure drops, leading me to believe that the Duralift has a flow consistancy problem. There is no reason on earth stock IDI's should be having flow issues with a 33gph pump.

I think there is a lot of people getting confused about the "high pressure" part of this pump setup. Its only a High pressure pump because its capable of high pressure, not because its always going to run high pressure. If you were to deadhead the pump, yes, you would have high pressure, however, that is the whole point of the bypass regulator. The fuel pump will have a constant supply of 70+gph circulating, and the regulator determines the pressure of the supply to the IP, the only pressure on the return side is going to be caused by the restriction in the return system.

Even if the return necked down to 1/4" in some spots, it would take 180gph to cause 8psi in the return system, and that is if the IP was using no fuel. 70gph should only put a couple of psi on the return system, and it should handle that just fine. (If we have any engineers here that would like to check those numbers, that would be great)

The FSV would only be seeing as much pressure as the regulator was set to, and it should be able to handle 6'ish PSI no problem.

 

Thank you sir.

Do you know how much pressure in the return system it take to start screwing with the IP?

so basically between 5/16" return lines and a pump that puts out 70ish gph when dead headed, that math at least is saying that everything will be just fine.

 

the pump you got is way overkill on pressure...what is the GPM..? you will have problems with the (caps) leaking if you can't get rid of the fuel...volume...I would try returning it to the return line just ahead of the fuel tank selector valve,..allso do you have a fillter pre the pump? this will prevent fuel line debrie from damaging the new pump...

 

no filters before the pump. hopefully will do that this fall. yeah i have read the chit load of other posts saying my system will not work and i have also said multiple times that i am trying it my way first. not trying to prove anybody right or wrong, it's just the way i want to try it. also i don't see how changing where the return from the regulator will change anything...after all, it would still be sharing the same return port on the FSV as the factory return lines from the injectors.

sorry, not trying to be an *** about this, but it seems like people are looking at my first post and then skipping everything else and just replying without reading anything.

 

also, believe me...part of me really wishes i had just gone with something like a duralift and be done with it.....

 

the pump i have is roughly 70gph=~1.16gpm

correction....that is for the walbro gsl392..i ended up getting the oem bosch pump found on 7.3 sd's. the gph of those is less. have not found any solid data on them. i have found that as the pressure is decreased they flow more GPH.....

 

got everything with the e-fuel buttoned up a while ago and went to start annnnnnnnnnnnnndddddd........












It ran great, not a single return line/cap leaked a drop of fuel!!!!! Everything went good really. only took a small diesel bath when i cut the metal line along the frame to "splice" in the e-pump. wiring was easy and smooth. the truck ran for about 10 min and i gave it a few easy revs. revved good, idled great. restarted great.

I took a bunch of pics of the pump and such. i will upload those tomorrow so hang tight.

it did scare the living **** out of me though. when i first cycled the key and the pump ran, after a few seconds i hear this loud "girgling" noise, shut the key off. looked around, nothing leaking. sounded like it was coming from the rear of the truck. went and got my mom, had her stand at the rear of the truck. turns out it was just the fuel/air from the return circuit dumping back into the tank.

 

i got bored and decided to upload pics now lol. here they are.....

return from the reg is the one with the plastic loom on it...

another pic of it..

relay mounted to the drivers side inner fender. the ground with the yellow connector is the e-pumps ground, i wanted a solid ground that would stay CLEAN for that baby...

some more of the relay...tapped into the main power feed for the fuse box for my constant 12VDC for the pump relay...


inline fuse for the constant 12VDC power...

swtiched 12VDC mooching off the FSS...

supply line from frame rail.....

supply line into the regulator...

New fitting for the reg>filter head. much better than what i had before....3/8" NPT>1/4"NPT...

the e-pump mounted to the frame rail right behind the trans cross-member....




'bout it for now. when i get my fuel pressure gauge mounted i will post a pic of that as well. it is all wired up, just waiting on the mounting cup.

i have that plastic loom stuff on all the rubber fuel hose and all(as much as possible) wiring. i even went as far as running the wire for my pressure gauge in with the FACTORY engine harnessLOL. it was actually easier than i though it would be and didn't take long at all. it took me probly an hour and a half to install everything for the pressure gauge on monday, but that is because while looking for matches(no cig lighter) for the heat shrink tubing, i stumbled upon some fire crackers. they had my name written all over them. needless to say the truck got put on hold for a few minLOL.

 

much to my surprise i got my R&D IP today in the mail!!!! went out and installed it. install went good. seems to idle smoother than with the old IP. Runs strong. runs about 5psi of boost. i went nearly WOT twice and hit maybe 9psi. on the EGT front......let's just say i won't/can't tow anything........i can hit 900*F just getting up to 55mph and that is not getting on it hard. i am also very happy to report that there is no more smoke than there was with the old pump(hardly an at all).




On another note.....I EFFING HATE THE TCM FOR THE E4OD!!!! I can't get on the throttle hard right now b/c the trans won't shift unless i let off the throttle. i hit probly 3400, nearly 3500 rpm and wasn't even WOT. need to adjust the TPS more. will work on that Wednesday.

Even though i am only running 5psi, it still feels like twice the truck as it did before. i am sure my wg needs adjusting but seeing as how EGT's will prevent me from getting on it hard, there is no point in messing with the WG right now. I NEED AN INTERCOOLER IN A VERY BAD WAY!!!! Local J/Y had a 7.3 superduty, will have to call them or stop by and see how much they want for the IC. fix the TPS, IC it, crank the fuel, dial in the WG, and this thing would be an absolute beast!!!

The e-fuel is awesome btw, still no leaks in the return system and i have about .5-1psi fuel pressure drop when getting o it!


That's about all i can think of right now. As of my short drive today i am happy with my e-fuel choice and my IP choice!!!!!!!