Good Job Area! It isn't easy pulling off a vehicle "with attitude" and a light color like white. Good Job.

 

Not much to update today except for some new hub caps.

I was talking to a friend of mine that works the commercial desk at a local auto parts store and he was telling me about a box of old hubcaps that he got from his brother for free.

A day or two later, he brought 6 of them in for me that he thought I might be able to use on Project F'nstein. They are really clean and simple and go well with the less-is-more theme that I'm shooting for. Not sure what they are off of, but I really like them.

After a quick dip in some Oxycillic Acid (Wood Bleach from Lowes) and a once over with some brillo pads, they cleaned up pretty well.

They are just stuck on with some double sided tape for now until I can figure out a more permanent way of attaching them to the Crown Vic wheels.

As usual......... mo' betta' pics!

 

 

My 1st reaction was early 60's Falcon or Econoline (Falcon) Van. Found the above pic. Looks like them.

 

Area. I remembered the E5TZ1A063A retainer and Googled that number. Up popped an old thread where Bill had looked them up for someone else. Call these numbers and have one of them measure one for you.

<table id="post6994755" class="tborder" border="0" cellSpacing="1" cellPadding="6" width="100%" align="center"><tbody><tr><td style="padding: 0px;" class="alt2"><table border="0" cellSpacing="6" cellPadding="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td vAlign="top" noWrap="nowrap">


</td></tr></tbody></table><!-- / user info --></td></tr><tr><td id="td_post_6994755" class="alt1"><!-- message, attachments, sig --><!-- message -->Quote:
<table border="0" cellSpacing="0" cellPadding="6" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td style="border: 1px inset currentColor;" class="alt2"> Originally Posted by E100PU
I swapped some Econoline parts for a set of Ford Ranger steel wheels 1990-97 era. These are the base 14X6, 8 hole "plain Jane's". I'm looking for the "retainers" that hold the center cap on. They bolt to the wheel via three small screws and the center caps snap onto them.

Any info is appreciated!
Thanks
</td></tr></tbody></table>
E5TZ1A063A .. Hub Cap Retainer / Fits: 1985/92 Ranger & Aerostar / Obsolete

No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.
-----------------------------------------------
F37Z1A063A .. Hub Cap Retainer / Fits: 1993/97 Ranger & Aerostar / Obsolete

COLLECTORS AUTO SUPPLY in Oroville WA has 22: 800-414-4462

ANDY MOHR FORD in Plainfield IN has 6.

AL PIEMONTE FORD in Melrose Park IL has 3.

OHIO VALLEY FORD in Moundsville WV has 2.

CAL WORTHINGTON FORD in Anchorage AK has 2.

BUD SMALL L/M in Greensburg PA has 2.
<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> __________________
Bill // Retired Ford Parts Manager // SoCal Chapter member // Part Number Research: 1928/2001 FoMoCo vehicles.

2013 Escape SE FWD 2.0L Eco-Boost.

</td></tr></tbody></table>

 

I stumbled upon a set of 54-55 Mercury hubcaps on a f100 with 15" rims. I had to do a double look, they looked great on the f100. Here's a picture of the style hubcaps I found.

 

Hey Area. I got so wrapped up in trying to find a pic I forgot to ask you if there were engineering number stickers still readable on the back of them before you soaked them. If so you didn't happen to write those numbers down did you?

 

Area. I found a set on EBAY with really good and close pics. ($500.00!) They are listed both on Ebay and My Ford parts book CD as fitting 1960 Full size Ford car and Thunderbird. Number COAA1130C. FYI.

 

As someone who just found out about the Crown Vic swap last week I'm loving this build thread. Keep up the great work and since you're so close, maybe I'll see you at a show.

 

$500 for the ones I have shown? Holy sheep dip......

I wonder what a set of 6 is worth? Lol

Going to post an update tonight when I get home. I found another nice score today.

Stay tuned fellas.

 

Thanks but I don't do shows. You are welcome to stop by my shop though.

 

A couple things on my mind. Are you going to hammer the lid & if so how much? Next is the swap from P71 springs to standard. They will not lower the front. The only difference is compression rate. If you want a 1 1/2" drop you will have to get a set from Eaton Detroit. My total cost was $225 delivered to my front door.

 

Cutoff wheel and 2 coils cut out = 3" drop and it was free. The drive train isn't in it yet so I want to see where it sits with some weight on it before I cut any more or get Eaton springs.

Lol

Not sure what you mean by hammer the lid. You mean chopped top? If so, I want to do it but it's not going to happen. I want to drive it by the end of this summer.

I say that now, but it may change at any moment.

 

Ok, here is an update.

I haven't had too much time to work on it lately, I've been too busy working on customer's rigs at the shop and making money to feed my habit.

A week or two ago, I experimented with flattening out the Wimbeldon White paint and sprayed the grille, headlight doors and front bumper. All in all it turned out pretty well, but it came out a little too flat. I'm going to put another coat or two on again with a little less deadening agent in the paint. I'm shooting for a semi-gloss finish.

Pic:



I also stumbled across an 80-86 F150 with a 1979 Mustang steering wheel in it (very similar to the Bronco Sport wheel except no provision for a horn button). No big deal, I'm going to put a push button in one of the blanks on the F750 instrument cluster for the horn instead. I didn't have a puller with me, so I had to buy the whole tilt column for a whopping $21.00 out the gate. Otherwise the steering wheel itself would have been $5.00

Pic:



I've always wanted to try my hand at stitching up my own interior. After seeing what they get for auto upholstery, I found this commerical 1940 Singer sewing machine on Craigslist for a mere $50. After some elbow grease and a bunch of sewing machine oil, it's as smooth as a Swiss watch.

Pic:



After browsing Craigslist this morning while having my coffee, I came across a really nice tailgate in a near by city. He originally was asking $300 for it, but I was able to get it for $150 plus an hour drive each way.

It looks like it was taken off early in it's life because it's nearly mint. There is only one small ding on the very bottom. Nothing a stud welder and some filler won't fix.

Pics:

 

One more thing: My connection in California has a mint 68-72 driver's side door for me. I know it's not a 67, but I have two different doors on the truck right now anyway and have both 67 and 68-72 door panels and hardware so I can go either way. Most likely I'll upgrade both sides to 68-72.

He's going to ship it via Grayhound Freight.

Total cost: $75 for the door and another $70 for shipping.

Yay me!