Good eye, I didn't notice the 1968/72 door. Wonder if the drivers side is the same?

 

Hence the name F'nstein........

There are so many different parts from different years on this project.

The doors are mismatched and as someone pointed out aren't correct for the year. Someone hacked off the 67 latch mechanism and riveted onto a 68-72 door. It works (for now).

The hood was also wrong for the year and not only had the side markers, but the FORD letters across the front and a holes where a piece of trim would go underneath the letters. There was 5 layers of paint and lots of rust. Hoods are hard to find around here and shipping is just too much for another one. I stripped the hood to bare metal, filled all of the holes and rust under the front corners where it's common. It took nearly 2 weeks (after work and weekends) of block sanding once finished but now it smooth, strong and straight.

I got a little more work done today. I finished the passenger side floor board and removed the rest of the wiring from the dash. I need to fix the big a$$ hole someone butchered for an aftermarket radio. I'm also going to leave the dash pad off so I need to fill all of the holes from the attaching points and the center speaker holes.

I also removed the doors in preparation for some new outer skins and to make it easier to remove the cab so that I can flip it over and finish underneath.

More pics:

 

One more thing: someone had mentioned about the radiator support.

I was able to score one from a friend in California with zero rust. Had to make sure to get the correct one as Bill pointed out.

I had an aluminum radiator laying around from a Jeep with a Ford motor that I never used and was surprised to see that it fit the factory opening like it was meant for it.

Plans are to run an E fan from a Taurus or another Ford, so I'll build a shroud for it out of aluminum.

 

If I could ask you a quick question did you redrill the axle or did you have it done? How tough? I have a 9" and don't want to give it up for the 88

 

Great project man! Wouldn't mind some more stills from the cv swap but I know there's limited storage. Thanks for the link.

 

Cool Build. Watching

 

You need a mill to redrill the bolt pattern. Not something most people have at home.

The hard part about using stock 9" truck axles, is the clearance hole in the plate(that you use to get the retaining plate bolts out), that will screw up trying to put a 4 1/2" bolt pattern in them. You need that space for the new pattern, and a big hole doesn't allow it.

 

I've been researching CV swap info (picked up my clip last week). How did you mark your centerline on the stock suspension? Curious what you used as a reference point and how you made your marks

 

Subscribing. I plan on doing the CV swap one day. One thing I haven't seen a lot about is what people are doing for motor mounts when they do this swap. So when you get to doing your motor mounts make sure you take lots of pics. LOL I plan on using an EFI 5.0 also.

 

good call out on the motor mounts, im sure we can all google 5.0 motor mounts for 05 CV, but yest interested in the pics when you get there

 

CV's that these came out of never had 5.0's. They are all 4.6L and the mounts are totally different.

I'm not starting the mounts until I decide what I'm going to do with the motor. I am strongly considering a twin turbo setup and I'm not sure how I'm going to plumb it yet. I may need room down the sides of the block for the dumps.

Here is a link that I saved showing one way of doing it:

http://www.fordification.com/forum/v...&sd=a&start=45

 

There are two OEM rivets on the lower frame rail that need to be removed when you ditch the stock suspension.

The alignment pins on the aluminum K member go right in between those two old holes where the rivets used to be. I drilled a hole directly in between those two (frame width is the same on both vehicles).

I then bolted the upper mounts to the strut towers and laid them over the top of the frame (allowing for about a 5/8 spacer - the K member is taller than the frame). I then marked the locations of the upper and lower mounts on the frame and drilled 4 holes in the center of the mounts. There is quite a bit of clearance in the K member holes to allow for adjustment side to side but not front to back.

I'll see if I can find the reference pics I used to determine the locations.

 

excellent build and info. would love to do the cv swap but there aren't any in breakers yard over here in the UK . have been offered bulkhead forward chassis & complete suspension from a '57 belair!! he's going drag racing & having new chassis built, I think it's a case of use what I can get my hands on cheap!!

Look forward to more on your build..

 

72Rich, why would you use 50 year old technology in your 40 year old truck? The twin I beams handle better than the Chevys used to.

 

it's been fitted with polyurethane bushes & is IFS, I'd like to lower my truck. and this seems the only option available to me at the moment, the guy who is going to fit it for me builds 8 second street legal drag car frames.