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Good news! Congrats. I'm going to have to disagree with you paying a deductible for your alternator. I think a little fuss, and you prob would have been off the hook for that as the dealer should have informed you of your costs before installing the alternator as it wasn't covered by Ford.
Good news! Congrats. I'm going to have to disagree with you paying a deductible for your alternator. I think a little fuss, and you prob would have been off the hook for that as the dealer should have informed you of your costs before installing the alternator as it wasn't covered by Ford.
I'm not disputing that at all. If it wasn't a lifetime deductible, I would have argued. To me it wasn't worth souring a successful outcome over a couple hundred dollars. In the end, they chased down a nasty electrical problem that would have been challenging for any dealership and they were kind and respectful throughout the ordeal. Plus, the small time dealership and helping the Northern Wisconsin economy is never a bad thing either. Life is different up there...you just have to experience it to appreciate it. All that being said, you are 100% correct.
SavageNFS, it's more customers like you that make life easier for us techs. First off, I am very sorry to hear about the ordeal you had to go through. It sure sounds like you are one of the owners who does in fact look after his ride, the way you should. What made me take interest in your situation is the fact that these 6.7L trucks have overall been far less troublesome than the dreaded 6.0L/6.4L trucks they replaced, so as a tech it interests me greatly to see what the outcome is on a seemingly rare and isolated incident like yours.
Trying to see things from ALL angles is often a difficult process, and what many customers lose sight of, is the difficulty level and complexity of these modern electronically controlled engineering masterpieces are to the average dealer tech. Case in point, a couple years back, I was stuck with an Escape Hybrid that came in on the hook as a no-start. Long story short, the cause was the low voltage battery not charging and eventually drained out. The pinpoint test for this particular concern seemed pretty straightforward, as I followed it the next step was to replace the DC-DC converter (basically what an alternator's job is on any other ordinary non-hybrid vehicle). Low and behold, after I replaced the DC-DC converter it still wasn't fixed. So, after double-checking and TRIPLE-checking all circuits invloved, I too was at a loss. At this point, I consulted with Ford Hotline for further direction. This was shortly followed up with a phone call from Ford engineering. I was then instructed to download all my scan tool test results into a file to e-mail to them. After about a day or two that passed, engineering instructed me to replace the entire body harness. This meant I had to disassemble all the wiring to the engine compartment, the front body clip, the left fender as well as remove the instrument panel, just to install this main harness. This by the way, was on a vehicle that wasn't even due for its first oil change yet, so imagine how it was to be the owner of that vehicle. But after all was said and done, the vehicle was fixed.
Sorry for the novel, but the point to it is the servicing tech on your truck was likely into a similar situation as I was, to get your truck fixed and by showing repsect and displaying a positive attitude as you did, it helped a lot more than you think. All too often in this business, vehicle owners are too quick to point the finger of blame to us techs who give it their all to do what they have to do, to fix your ride. But I guess when someone shells out 50 to 60 large for a vehicle only to have it break down, fair and equitable seldomly enters the thought process when things like this happen.
Well...slight little bump in the road today. I went to adjust my airbags and could not get the pump to respond. The Ford Tech suggested relocating the power to the compressor to Up fitter switch #1 rather than piggy backed off a fuse. He said it was unrelated to any of the problems with my truck, but he preferred it wired up that way as would any Ford Tech. I agreed and told him to go ahead.
Up fitter 1 is "no worky". As in the light on the switch illuminates when the ignition is on and the switch is up, but if I put a test light on the yellow wire under the dash there is no power on the wire. I also noticed the Tech brought the wire directly into the cab and wired to the yellow wire under the dash rather than outside at the firewall. So either he wired up the switch and it blew the relay or fuse, or something isn't hooked up correctly because I should get my test light to light with the ignition on and I have nothing.
So I guess I call him in the morning...unless anyone else has any ideas???
Put another 100 miles on it today and it ran great. No issues and it was 95 out there today.
So after talking to the Tech and checking the fuse #94 (a 25 amp under the hood), I have established the fuse blew. It had a 15 amp inline fuse before and now it is a 25 amp, I'm not too concerned about it. I'll go out later this morning and replace the fuse. I am a little concerned why the fuse would have blown though. I've never had a problem before this.
But I guess when someone shells out 50 to 60 large for a vehicle only to have it break down, fair and equitable seldomly enters the thought process when things like this happen.
This is the key issue here!
For instance - my truck is at the dealership for a MAP sensor replacement.
Dropped off this am, my wife picked me up and took me back home. Then my wife drove me to work. Then my buddy has to take his lunch to drive me back to dealers to pickup the truck when it's done. This process happened three times for this CEL and I've just hit 8k on the truck.
(1st CEL reset, 2nd CEL Pinpoint, 3rd trip for MAP Replacement)
But we, the owners are expected to just be patient and understanding while corporate Ford decides to replace a defective part.
I went through the same process on my 2011 leaking upper oil pan seal and defective radiator (out of warranty) 26 days total without my vehicle (yes I had a rental).
Just Saying - it's getting old
For instance - my truck is at the dealership for a MAP sensor replacement.
Dropped off this am, my wife picked me up and took me back home. Then my wife drove me to work. Then my buddy has to take his lunch to drive me back to dealers to pickup the truck when it's done. This process happened three times for this CEL and I've just hit 8k on the truck.
(1st CEL reset, 2nd CEL Pinpoint, 3rd trip for MAP Replacement)
But we, the owners are expected to just be patient and understanding while corporate Ford decides to replace a defective part.
I went through the same process on my 2011 leaking upper oil pan seal and defective radiator (out of warranty) 26 days total without my vehicle (yes I had a rental).
Just Saying - it's getting old
All I'm saying is the service Tech is likely on your side to begin with and is arguing with Ford on your behalf. Take the issue up with Ford Motor Company and not the Service Tech. Ask the Service Manager who you can call up the ladder to voice your concerns.
All I'm saying is the service Tech is likely on your side to begin with and is arguing with Ford on your behalf. Take the issue up with Ford Motor Company and not the Service Tech. Ask the Service Manager who you can call up the ladder to voice your concerns.
Nothing against the service technicians at all, KUDOS for them all! And corporate America (Generalizing here) is the problem...
So after talking to the Tech and checking the fuse #94 (a 25 amp under the hood), I have established the fuse blew. It had a 15 amp inline fuse before and now it is a 25 amp, I'm not too concerned about it. I'll go out later this morning and replace the fuse. I am a little concerned why the fuse would have blown though. I've never had a problem before this.
Hey Savage,
Glad to here you are back on the road
I had my compressor (AirLift Wireless) wired to Aux 4 as it is a 15A rating and as you have noticed that is the fuse rating on the pump, and left the factory in line fuse out of the equation.
Definitely figure out what the deal is on Aux1, but if Aux4 is free I would use that one.
More good news buddy....I finally got the rig loaded and weighed. AND I have Pics to prove it
Just give me a bit and I will get it posted on the Well...it happened thread
I had my compressor (AirLift Wireless) wired to Aux 4 as it is a 15A rating and as you have noticed that is the fuse rating on the pump, and left the factory in line fuse out of the equation.
Definitely figure out what the deal is on Aux1, but if Aux4 is free I would use that one.
More good news buddy....I finally got the rig loaded and weighed. AND I have Pics to prove it
Just give me a bit and I will get it posted on the Well...it happened thread
So I put a new 25 amp fuse in and the compressor is working again. I'll have to keep an eye on it. I will move it over to #4, but I don't know if I'll be able to make time before the trip to get it done or not. I'll try.
Still a little bothered by the blown fuse...they don't blow for no reason.