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Let me go ahead and put my other question to you. I did a search and found a 250 with the same problem. Seems my clutch isn't releasing completley. Having trouble going in to reverse and first. Had a little grind in first today. Been thinking clucth didn't feel right for the last 2 or 3 weeks. Starts to engage when you just barely let petal up. The advice he was given was either the slave or master cylinder. Any idea which is more prone to give trouble?
I would look at the plastic bushing that goes on the end of the slave cylinder push rod for the clutch. It has been known to wear out and then split, which in effect makes it so that the clutch isn't traveling far enough. The slave is external, meaning it is on the outside of the transmission, which makes it a LOT easier to work on than having to drop the trans so you can see it. The other thing you can check would be to stand on your head and look at the bracket that the pedals mount through. Those are known to crack on the clutch side and the same thing happens -- clutch doesn't disengage all the way.
At least that's what I have gathered. My truck is an auto so I haven't dealt with that personally.
Yep, too much movement under the dash. Didn't look as if it's going to be an easy job. I'll check that slave cylinder too just to be on the safe side. Truck was left outside last night because the trailer was still hooked to it. It's all wet now. Crawl under when it dries a little.
Not so sure if my problem is gone or not. Coming home this evening I was running 40mph in town on flat ground, under no strain, when it cut out a couple of times real quick then cleared back up. Still on untreated fuel. Just don't know. I did order the bushing kit, but since their internet was down it'll be monday before I'll have them. Get that clutch pedal fixed and at least my clutch problem should be gone. Any ideas on the cutting out problem? Just live with it?
After 12 pages I don't remember if you ever swapped out the CPS, could also be an IDM issue, or even a PCM issue. Find someone to swap you IDM's or PCM's and see if the problem persists.
Might also be a bad connection on the ICP sensor. Ive had a few do that, idled funny and if you wiggled the connector it would smooth right out.
I haven't done anything to the electrical/electronic systems so far. Been focused on the fuel system simply because of how it behaves when I run treatment. It NEVER acts up with the correct amount of KleanDiesel in the tank. That's after running about 3 months or so after the problem started. Without the treatment it will sometimes cutout going down the road or at idle will just shut off. When it shuts off like that you're lucky if it run 5 minutes after that, usally seconds. Pour the KleenDiesel in and it instantly clears up. Very odd. Prehaps there is another problem also. I'll check those things you mentioned and see what happens.
I started trying to find this problem because I was concerned it might leave me sitting on the side of the road one day. I'm starting to reach the point we're I'm willing to take that chance. Prehaps if the problem gets worse or it dies altogether THEN I can find the cause. In the meantime I guess I better keep plenty of KleenDiesel in the bed.
Anybody got any instructions on replacing the bushings on the brake/clutch pedal? Having trouble even getting it apart and this sorry book I've got has nothing on it. Thanks for any help.