Look at the diagrams I posted on my site. I also explained it a bit after you were having issues. Where are you buying the starters? Have you tried using the late PMGR starter, I believe further back on this thread the PN for one source is listed.

 

Hi Bill, Yes we did cover that, but when I hooked it up per the diagram when I turned the key I couldnt shut the starter off finally I unhooked the battery.
I bought the last 3 starters from orileys auto. I haven't tried a PMGR starter yet. I am still under a lifetime warranty.

 

I can't say for sure.
I know on '86's and my '87 the start retard is in the harness.

Yours was a diesel so it may not be there at all.
The starter solenoid may have two small push on terminals.
The one marked 'S' is the trigger & the one marked 'I' is for the retard function on early DSII ignitions.
You can try running a wire from there to your ignition module.

But, if your ignition timing is 8-10 degrees BTDC it should only lead to a slow crank when hot.

How tight is the starter in the piloting diameter of the spacer plate?
How good are the threads in the bellhousing?

 

Did you ever get this resolved?? We are having same issues.. Keep going through starters. Went to a High torc starter and now it is spinning and doing nothing again.

 

It has been fine since I helicoiled the bellousing and shifted the starter over towards the flywheel.

I think the root of my problem is the aftermarket ring gear.


Tell me what is going on and how it started.

 

It took the teeth off the first 4 from autozone. My son only has been driving for less than I year and it was out of commission because of a steering valve from May til last week. We bought a high performance starter in January and it was working fine but this week it just started messing up again. it just spins and does not engage.

 

What engine are we talking about Michelle?
Is it automatic or standard?
If you take the starter out is the bushing in the nose worn oval?
How do the teeth on the ring gear look?
Are the threads that hold the starter in place in good condition?
Are the bolts bent?

On my truck the starter gear was climbing out of engagement.
In one case it broke the whole snout off the starter!
I put this down to the camming action of the bendix gear.

 

Well to keep everyone posted. I haven't driven ol'blue here of late with a quart a hour oil leak and a compromised front end it hasn't seen much road time.
The starter began to fail again. So i removed the lower bolt on the starter mount and bent a old brass ford key and jamed it between the starter and the bellhousing and tighten the bottom bolt. Its worked very well so far... in the interest of helping if anyone needs me to elaborate please let me know and i will include photos.

 

Got ol'blue engine redone and in. Ran it for about 45 minutes yesterday. Same starter issues. A buddy of mine gave me a mini starter to see if a 10 tooth gear will make better contact. Will let you good people know how it works out.

 

Upon removal of the old starter i see my bent brass key spacer had falling out. More on the modification that solved the problem in a bit.
Well the mini starter made no tooth contact. So i put my old stock starter back on.
this time the starer modification i didn't use the bent brass key approach.
i took 3/4 inch copper "T" fitting that i had flattened for use as a welding condctor and didn't after all. I folded it across the widest point in the "T" or the top. I used a vice and a Hammer to do it.
then slid it between the bellhousing and the starter mounting area. At this time the starter only has the top bolt loosely attached. Using a pry tool i applied slight pressure forcing the starter towards the flywheel. I inserted the bottom bolt and tightened it.
then i checked the teeth proximity and *measured the gap at the starter were it meets the flywheel.
took my copper "T" and dinged it to fit in a wedge fashion.
got back under ol'blue and removed the bottom bolt and took the pry tool, inserted the "T" spacer while retaining the pressure to the pry tool. Tightened the top bolt (which i added a lock nut to) then proceeded to reinstall the lower bolt.

the end reslt is a solid quick starter engagement with no grinding or abnormal noiss noises.
i highly recommend this if you have to replace your starter dew to grinding and or bad engagement.
i was replacing the starter every other month on a non daily driver.
good luck to all.

 

Just installed a powermaster xs parts number for a big block and a 4spd is 9505.
I am simply stunned how well it works. No more grinding or squealing. Ol'Blue sounds like after 7 years with nothing but issues may become a daily driver after all. I am flabbergasted how smooth and seemingly effortless the old truck starts. It's truly amazing. If Jim or anyone is having similar grinding or self destructing starter issues this is the way to go and it's made in America. A win win situation. Hope this helps Jim or anyone else out there.