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I'm running the original 215 in my 52 F1. I did move over to 12 volts during the build. I know the 6v started can "handle" 12v as long as you don't lay on it hard, but I reasoned when buying a brand new starter, why not just get a 12v one? I received the 12v starter from a later 223 and quickly saw that the flange is not identical. I moved my 6v starter flange to the 12v starter and bolted it up. Next I noticed that the 6v flange was thinner. When I kicked it in, sure enough the distance between starter & ring gear weren't in tolerance and the bendix didn't want to disengage properly.
The next move was to cut & weld the "ear" on the 12v, thicker flange to the bellhousing location of the 215. That then bolted up and got the bendix the "right" distance from the flywheel. The starter engaged fine and the bendix disengaged each time. We hit the starter many times during the initial break in of the engine. The shop that wired the truck engaged it multiple times when testing wiring too. Now that we're ready for an initial drive, the bendix won't disengage. Pulled the starter and spun it but stays engaged.
These starters were on many Ford motors for trucks, cars & tractors. It's the more recent bendix with the sheet metal covered spring.
All that background and now my question/subject: in modifying things, I didn't confirm if I've got the right gap between the disengaged started and the ring gear. Does anyone know that measurement so I can make sure I haven't contributed to the problem?
The Parts CD shows a different Bendix assembly and starter being used with the 223's in '56. Not much info but it gives the length of the older style used on the 215's. Can you compare the lengths of the shafts and the lengths of the Bendix's?
Starters I've pulled generally show wear on the Bendix teeth right up to the middle.
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