Jim's ongoing starter issues.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
True. But if you don't tilt the tranny a long ways down or pull on the TC then it will be seated. Just go slowly as you snug the bolts up and. If things start to get tight stop. Been there, done that, and didnt hurt a thing.
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I'm assuming he just wants to pull the tranny back in order to swap the flexplate?
I've done clutches with the gearbox hanging on the crossmember.
So little room that I had to cut down the pilot tool.
I've done clutches with the gearbox hanging on the crossmember.
So little room that I had to cut down the pilot tool.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
I did something of a C6 step-by-step install post for a member about a year ago, if it helps (post #9 in the thread below).
My truck was auto previously (a couple of times.......& manual, also a couple of times)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12673607
My truck was auto previously (a couple of times.......& manual, also a couple of times
)https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12673607
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
I have right now Jim, although I took the shifter lever off the auto column, & swapped the dash shift guide (PRND21) for the manual dash piece.
I've got a complete manual, tilt column here that I'm going to go over, & then swap in to finish the job.
I've got a complete manual, tilt column here that I'm going to go over, & then swap in to finish the job.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
When you pull the converter nuts off, two items, first use a 6 point socket, the hex on the nuts is shallow and a 12 point will round them to where they have to be cut off, second, after all 4 are off, push the converter as far back as it will go, then measure how far back the end of the studs are from the front of the converter housing. That way you wil be able to tell if it is seated correctly.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
And, Bill is absolutely correct. Do not use a 12 point socket! Nor open-end wrenches.
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Wouldn't even need to be pins, Gary.
Two 4-5" 7/16-14 bolts would be fine, and the bell couldn't slip off the back.
(I don't really know how much room is in the tunnel)
Two 4-5" 7/16-14 bolts would be fine, and the bell couldn't slip off the back.
(I don't really know how much room is in the tunnel)
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Los Angeles
When you pull the converter nuts off, two items, first use a 6 point socket, the hex on the nuts is shallow and a 12 point will round them to where they have to be cut off, second, after all 4 are off, push the converter as far back as it will go, then measure how far back the end of the studs are from the front of the converter housing. That way you wil be able to tell if it is seated correctly.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Very true. There's enough room to get the tranny's input shaft out of the torque converter as I've done that. And, you can remove the fan so you can drop the back of the tranny, tilting the engine up, to get a bit more room if needed.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Good point. In theory he could slide the tranny back on long pilot pins, but not the bottom two, supporting the back of the tranny/t-case with a floor jack, and change out the flex plate. (You wouldn't use the bottom bolt holes as you probably can't get the flex plate out if you do.) That would side-step the problem of balancing the tranny/t-case on a jack since the guide pins would keep it from twisting.
And, Bill is absolutely correct. Do not use a 12 point socket! Nor open-end wrenches.
How long do you think I could make these pilot pins without them bending?
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
You don't need to make pins.
You don't need to slip the bell back onto them.
A wrench is easier than a screwdriver up towards the top.
Buy grade 8 bolts and the block will snap before you bend two 7/16 bolts.
You don't need to slip the bell back onto them.
A wrench is easier than a screwdriver up towards the top.
Buy grade 8 bolts and the block will snap before you bend two 7/16 bolts.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Yep. I would go under and measure to see how long of bolt you can get in. And each location will Cary as up at the top won't take a long bolt. And, as said, with several bolts in you can use the weight of the tranny/t-case combo to tilt the engine back to give more clearance. But you will have to remove the rear crossmember if you want to tilt the engine. And once it is tilted you can put a jack with a block of wood under the crank pulley to keep it there when you slide the tranny back.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 819
Likes: 50
From: North Westren Missouri
[B/]I hope this is helpful it made a world of difference for my starter eater. I am running a 460 with a T19 4 spd. The truck used to be a 6.9 diesel before the previous owner swapped it for a 460 7.5.
The above picture I think are the starters for a 351 automatic and the other is for a standard. I didn't look at my old one I just put it in the box as a core and sent it on its way. The one on the left was my first and second replacement and the one on the right is the one that I have been using for about 3 months.
[/B]
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 819
Likes: 50
From: North Westren Missouri
well I stand corrected again. Just put a 3rd starter on my truck. I am still using the manual transmission starter.
On a related issue. On a blue stress relief duraspark II ingnition doesn't the white wire connect some where to the starter circuit? To retard the timing to ease stress on the starter?? If so dose anyone know where?
On a related issue. On a blue stress relief duraspark II ingnition doesn't the white wire connect some where to the starter circuit? To retard the timing to ease stress on the starter?? If so dose anyone know where?