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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Jim's ongoing starter issues.

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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 12:13 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
My son-in-law learned that the hard way trying to put the AOD back in his 2WD 89 F-150. The third time he dropped it, granddaughter called while he was changing his shirt and asked if I could bring my transmission jack over.
3 times dropping it while *trying* to install it, or 3 times of doing the in/out thing?
Either way, that's 3 more times than I would do before looking to borrow a trans jack, especially when one is *that* easily obtainable.......

My truck sat for a while before doing the flexplate/starter, because I simply did not want to even attempt the task without a jack. I was going to make arraingments with Gary, to borrow his lift, but the guy I am now working for had offered to let me use one of his lifts and the trans jack. I ended up going to work for him before I got around to actually doing the job. Worked out better for me, as I got the shop discount on parts, and didn't have to borrow any tools.......
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 12:16 PM
  #92  
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I bought the least-expensive tall tranny jack that Steve's Wholesale Tools sells and then discovered that for $20 more I could have gotten one w/a compound ram that went lower and higher. As it turns out with the one I have a ZF will come out from under the truck only if the tall extensions are used on the lift, and even then there is only one place. Further, the limited height means the lift can't be all the way up or I can't get the tranny high enough.

Moral of the story is don't buy the cheapest tool you can find. And the point about using an adaptor on a floor jack is well made - the narrow base of the floor jack is a major problem.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 12:32 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I bought the least-expensive tall tranny jack that Steve's Wholesale Tools sells and then discovered that for $20 more I could have gotten one w/a compound ram that went lower and higher. As it turns out with the one I have a ZF will come out from under the truck only if the tall extensions are used on the lift, and even then there is only one place. Further, the limited height means the lift can't be all the way up or I can't get the tranny high enough.

Moral of the story is don't buy the cheapest tool you can find. And the point about using an adaptor on a floor jack is well made - the narrow base of the floor jack is a major problem.
Yeah, the compound ram is nice. Dropped the trans on an excursion christmas eve, and took it under the rear axle, in spite of the extra 4" blocks between the springs and axle.


Those adapters on a floor jack are accidents waiting to happen.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 12:39 PM
  #94  
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I am very much a newbie when it comes to vehicles. These last two months I've learned at an incredible clip, with confidence coming along just as fast.

That being said I'll have to muster up a bit more to tackle this job. I'm a big guy(6'3 310) and working under the truck probably has a lot to do with my trepidation. The thought of Irreversibly fudging something up scares me a bit as well.

With every project I've done I start to think I can do more. Have there been any good newbie threads on disconnecting the tranny and tc? I know how it theoretically works but theory and practical application can diverge at times.

Should I drain the transmission? That opens up another worm hole with it being old and dirty fluid and dislodging gunk.

I dont know my mind is spinning fast at the moment with all the things that need to be done.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 01:09 PM
  #95  
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As big as you are you might want to put the truck on jack stands to gain clearance to work. Not jacks, but stands. As for messing things up, these things aren't delicate - assuming you don't pull the torque converter off the input shaft.

You won't need to drain the tranny nor t-case as the weight of the fluid isn't enough to worry about. You will find some fluid between the tranny and t-case as the seals will have leaked a bit, but there shouldn't be a lot. And as long as you keep things fairly level you should spill much.

I don't know of a how-to, but there are lots of things on the internet so do some looking. The engine should stay fairly well where it is sitting by itself on its mounts, but it doesn't hurt to have a spare jack and pieces of 2x4 to change its angle if needed.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 01:45 PM
  #96  
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SIL, dropped it 3 times trying to reinstall it. As for transmission jacks, I have Walker low profile one, but to get a large case (M and 385 block) case out from under the truck you have to tilt it down in front and take it out one side just behind the radius arm bracket. A C4, C6 or most AODs and the 4R70W aren't bad, the E4OD due to it's strange pan design is loads of fun.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 01:45 PM
  #97  
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thank you very much for the info I think I might actually do this I'm driving now it'll be a few hours before I get back on.

I am very certain with the resources of the internet and this form in particular if I run into issues I can figure them out.

PS God bless speech to text lol
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 02:06 PM
  #98  
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When you get it out, be careful not to tip the trans front down or the torque converter will slip off the shaft, likely damaging the front seal. If it should slip, be sure to replace the front seal. You'll probably need a seal puller to remove the old one.

Someone already mentioned making pins to guide the transmission back into place against the block. They're a really good idea. If you cut slots in the ends in the ends you can use a screwdriver to remove them when you have a couple of bolts holding the trans in place. A little chamfer on the end of the pins makes it easier to get the trans in place.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 03:40 PM
  #99  
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Good idea about the slots. I didn't do that once and got the tranny on and couldn't get the guide pin out.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 04:52 PM
  #100  
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Upon reassembly, if it seems stuck, don't tighten the bolts and force the engine + trans back together... that damages the pump inside and you'll go through more expense and more work to take it apart again and fix it.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 06:29 PM
  #101  
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Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm going to write all this stuff down in my project book as not to over look.

Hopefully I'll get started on it in 2 or 3 weeks if it turns out it be the major issue. I'll start a thread tomorrow with pictures of the flexplate.

Thank y'all so much.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 06:30 PM
  #102  
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Btw you can have your thread back Jim. Thanks for letting me borrow it for a bit ;-)
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 06:31 PM
  #103  
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Just be sure that the torque converter is all the way back in the trans before you try to mate it to the engine.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 06:44 PM
  #104  
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The torque converter is a concern. I'll be sure I read for days and ask a million questions and then second guess myself at every turn dealing with, lol.

I'm nervously excited as it will be my first tranny pull.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 06:48 PM
  #105  
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Just be sure the TC is fully seated before you try to tighten up the bell.
Otherwise the pump and seal will be crushed.
 
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