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2wd 2.6, the problem is it sat for 16 years after the owner discovered a burned valve on #3. The cost of the parts alone may make it not worth repairing. It had 143,000 miles on it when he parked it. As for the diesels, I know about them, the guy who inspects my vehicles has an 83 P'up diesel automatic, not fast, but damn near bullet proof, He actually failed a timing belt (big Gilmer belt, drives cam and injection pump) and the only real damage was 7 bent push rods.
Okay, I tried my best to get accurate measurements.
It wasn't easy. The drivers side exhaust crosses over right there.
And to actually see where the calipers were I had to wear my cheaters because my head was so close.
I must have taken the numbers ten times.
Root .195-.197"
Tip .102-.103
The tip number is a little sketchy.
Very hard to see exactly where the tips of the calipers are.
Okay, I tried my best to get accurate measurements.
It wasn't easy. The drivers side exhaust crosses over right there.
And to actually see where the calipers were I had to wear my cheaters because my head was so close.
I must have taken the numbers ten times.
Root .195-.197"
Tip .102-.103
The tip number is a little sketchy.
Very hard to see exactly where the tips of the calipers are.
Sorry, I should have told you how I got the tip measurement. I kept dialing the calipers down until they wouldn't catch on the tip, meaning sit down on the tip, and then I backed up until they caught. Just did it again and I get .062" consistently on several different teeth.
The numbers you got match mine Jim, my flex plate is probably worn a little at the root. FWIW, use the screw to lock the calipers, or you can zero them on the tooth, take them out and close them. That will give you a negative value, but correct in the absolute sense.
Don't believe you can mix them up. Don't think you can bolt a clutch up to a flexplate or a torque converter to a flywheel. Can't say for sure because I've never tried but don't think you can. Besides, there's a visually big difference in them. However, that doesn't mean the ring gear isn't the wrong one. Question I have is, are there different flywheels for different applications with the same motor that might use different flywheels and starters? Like say F150 vs F250 with different ring gear/starter gear sets? Guess the easiest way to find out is check if the F150 and 250 use the same starter.
The numbers you got match mine Jim, my flex plate is probably worn a little at the root. FWIW, use the screw to lock the calipers, or you can zero them on the tooth, take them out and close them. That will give you a negative value, but correct in the absolute sense.
Our numbers matched and I did not even remember what yours were...
There's just no way for me to approach it radially like you did Bill.
I kept writing them down on the piece of cardboard I was lying on and threw out any seemingly random ones.
I was trying to lock the calipers in place but it's too difficult to get both hands up in there.
So I set the locking **** for a slight friction fit and was very careful removing it.
I did also Helicoil the tapped hole you see in the bottom of the photo.
After cutting down the 25/64" bit so the drill would clear the crossmember.
Thankfully I have a very nice ratcheting tap handle.
The lower bolt was noticeably tighter going in.
Perhaps because Helicoil doesn't supply a bottoming tap.
The starter has never been loose when it fails.
Though the two 3/8" bolts were bent after I blew the nose off...
If he's got an AT flywheel and his truck is a MT, then that's probably the issue.
Is there any difference, and if so, is it a big enough difference that it tears up starters?
He can't have an AT flywheel, AT is a flex plate, basically a stamped piece of steel with a weight and ring gear welded on. Dorman could have put and AT ring gear on an MT flywheel, who knows what happens when you translate information into Chinese?
Charlie,
I modified another starter as shown to make it tighter, and once I wedged a piece of aluminum in the bolt slot so it couldn't move I haven't had a problem.
An inelegant solution, I know...
The truck is a beater and life got in the way of doing anything more.
I just bought the truck a couple months back and the problem came with it. Its an old beater and I wasn't to worried about it. I guess I should have been a bit more concerned. :-)
If I advance the engine a bit it will start up more times than not. Its a loud as can be but it starts up. All signs from what I can figure point to a bad ring gear but when I looked it over there were some worn corners but nothing that would suggest it should slip. That along with the fact that the starter just free spins a lot of the time right after it doesn't start makes me think I have an engagement depth issue. I'm still testing things and researching all. Hoping I can put a flex plate replacement of for a bit.
I did change the starter once and it cranked right away about a half dozen times or so. Now its back up to the same ol shenanigans.
First, some information, what engine, MT or AT. Now the biggy, where did you buy the starter? there are some really poor Chinese built ones running around.
It's an 82 with a 302 3sp Automatic. Advance auto starter. Cheap rebuilt. Didn't know when I bought it there was a difference just impressed that it was only thirty bucks.
I guess a good quality starter would be the first place to start?
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