302 with c6??? Possible??
I was curious how well a C6 transmission from a 1983 Ford with a 302 would meet up with a 302 from a 1980 Ford?? I've heard some people talk about bolt patterns of a C6 not matching but I thought that the only way bolt patterns wouldn't match is if the C6 tranny was a big block C6.
Any ideas on this? I appreciate all the help!
Jon Preston
Any C6 from a 300-6cyl, 302 and 351 will all interchange to one another. That is the small block patern.
Then theres the big block patern, 400, 429 and 460.
And the FE block patern, 360/390.
And finally the Diesel patern, witch is unique to only diesels.
Any C6 from a 300-6cyl, 302 and 351 will all interchange to one another. That is the small block patern.
Then theres the big block patern, 400, 429 and 460.
And the FE block patern, 360/390.
And finally the Diesel patern, witch is unique to only diesels.
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The blockplate is first put in position, then the flexplate bolts to the crankshaft - it will only fit in one position as the bolt holes are deliberately spaced unevenly.
You need the flexplate that matches your engine & year........sometime in 1981 302's went from a 28oz to a 50oz inbalance.
If you don't have one already, you also need an auto-trans starter........manual starters have a different pinion reach.
The snout of the torque converter fits into the hole in the crankshaft (like a manual trans pilot) but not all converters have the same size pilot, so check for a match.
The torque converter needs to be installed into the trans carefully. There are two splined shafts, & the pump drive.......all three MUST engage properly or major damage occurs on startup.
By playing with it on the floor, before you lift it up to the engine, you can get familiar with it.
Partially prefill the converter with 2-3 quarts of fluid & slip it onto the input shaft (the first set of splines).
Turning it, without too much backward pressure, it will engage onto the second splines (you need to feel this happen); then, with more rotating, it will lastly engage the pump drive (again, you need to feel this happen).
By taking note of the converter position at this stage, you will be able to notice if it shifts in the process of lifting it up to the motor, & correct it.
The trans is then lifted up & slid into place.
I think I've used two guide pins (bolts with the heads removed) screwed into the block, to make this easier - I know I have with manual transmissions; I also put some grease on the converter pilot to help it slide in.
Take care that the 4x studs on the converter line up & engage the flexplate holes.
Some flexplates also have four holes to line up with the converter drain plug, regardless of it's position; but some only have one, in which case it needs to be turned to position.
The trans can then be bolted up to the block - one of these bolts also secures the dipstick tube.
With the trans bolted tight, but while the 4x converter nuts are still off, the converter should be free to move forward & aft slightly, with little resistance.
Turning the motor by hand, the nuts can then be installed on the converter studs.
If anything feels 'wrong' during this stage, resist the temptation to just pull it together with the bolts - back the trans out & recheck, particularly regarding the converter engagement.
From there - converter access cover back on, rear cross member & mount, shifter & kickdown linkages, 3/16" vacuum line to the modulator, cooler lines, NSS & reverse light wiring, starter, speedo cable, driveshaft & fluid.
I think that's everything - take it for a spin, check the fluid level &, if necessary, adjust the modulator
Thank you for your information!
Jon Preston
I loosened it up and got it re-positioned, and it's running to this day, but the starter never has sounded very good since then. I think it damaged some of the teeth on the flexplate, since it's had a different starter in it over the years. It was in a old 65 mustang I have.












