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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^he is right... i used them, they work per say but he hose clamps would have been much easier and i probably wouldnt have cut my fingers to threads lol
Here is a quick, off the top of my head breakdown.
One thing to understand is that I got insane deals on a lot of things, like my pistons, fuel system, and my turbocharger. These are all after tax, cash price, all said and done
Machine work on the block (including balance) - $750
Machine work on the heads - $330
Valves - $100
Springs - $80
Cryo on rods/pin/pistons - $140
Ceramic/Tri-coat on pistons $260
Pistons - $203
Turbocharger - $100
ARP studs for mains/heads/intake - $350
Intercooler $150
Intercooler builder kit - $120
Camshaft $150
Fuel system - $1300
Gasket sets - $200
I'm sure there are a few things I am missing, but that is the bulk of it.
Stuff that I did myself that only cost me the cost of materials which is not even notable would be the entire turbo "kit", the intake manifold, exhaust, ect.
One of the minor cost things im sure but should be noted in specs. IIRC you opened up the pre-cups a bit.
A trick for doing the metal zip ties that will really make them tight and save your fingers is to use a cv-boot clamp tool. Used them on my up pipes and they have never budged.
not too bad, considering apparently starting fluid doesnt work in the turbo with an intercooler.... suprised I was able to get it to start without any assistance. Just a bunch of cranking.
Hey I know you still have to fine tune the ol girl but she sounds pretty good and you can here that turbo spool up and you haven't even given her hell yet I can't wait to see what she can do when you get her tuned and purring like a kitten hell what am I saying kitten.... More like a tiger in a kittens body lol.... Congrats on getting as far as you have I'm still following until you get them numbers posted and I can't wait lol
I noticed you have a plate blocking where the cdr tube would attach at the engine front. Also noticed the breathers on both valve covers.
Would you mind showing or explaining the idea you have for the crankcase pressure? I've got an idea I've been slowly working on, just wondering what others are thinking.
A trick for doing the metal zip ties that will really make them tight and save your fingers is to use a cv-boot clamp tool. Used them on my up pipes and they have never budged.
wasnt so much getting them tight, i had the tools for that it was after the were on there carrying the pipes or moving them around or place t place i would usually find the straps with my fingers or palms of my hands
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I noticed you have a plate blocking where the cdr tube would attach at the engine front. Also noticed the breathers on both valve covers.
Would you mind showing or explaining the idea you have for the crankcase pressure? I've got an idea I've been slowly working on, just wondering what others are thinking.
Basically positive crank case pressure will dump into the exaust instead being burned in the engine. This will prevent a runaway situation from oil entering the intake. Secondly, the factory CDR is on the back of the intake. Makes the rear cylinders run hotter potentially leading to bad headgaskets and hotter than normal egts. That plate is factory, although he made another one. It is the IP gear access cover.
Such a great build, and thank you for sharing it and all the info that goes along with it with us! this thread will most likely start people in a whole new direction with there builds!
got the wiring done, it fires up on glow plugs now. Smoke is now contained, and I think it is very close to where it needs to be.... my guess is that once its nice and warm, it wont smoke anymore. Unfortunately I'm still leaking oil steadily out of my turbo feed, the gasket must be bad or something. Once that is fixed so it doesn't leak out anymore, I will be able to keep this thing running and tinker with it when its hot!
Also, for sound reference. I had my wife in the cab (she started it and what not) she kept an eye on the tach and the max rpm in this video is 2,000 on the money.