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Yes, I figure if I am going to get a cam grind, its pointless to do that and nothing else to the engine.
Here is a quick, off the top of my head breakdown.
One thing to understand is that I got insane deals on a lot of things, like my pistons, fuel system, and my turbocharger. These are all after tax, cash price, all said and done
Machine work on the block (including balance) - $750
Machine work on the heads - $330
Valves - $100
Springs - $80
Cryo on rods/pin/pistons - $140
Ceramic/Tri-coat on pistons $260
Pistons - $203
Turbocharger - $100
ARP studs for mains/heads/intake - $350
Intercooler $150
Intercooler builder kit - $120
Camshaft $150
Fuel system - $1300
Gasket sets - $200
I'm sure there are a few things I am missing, but that is the bulk of it.
Stuff that I did myself that only cost me the cost of materials which is not even notable would be the entire turbo "kit", the intake manifold, exhaust, ect.
everything in the pictures are fully bolted on. I don't quite understand the confusion though. I marked the teeth that I need to mesh the IP gear with.
We often have folks show up here that are trying to figure out how to re-install an IP after removing the top gear with the pump. Seeing a picture like yours could lead some more to removing the gear with the pump, so thought I'd ask what you did or how you planned to time the pump.
Having marked it is a good, simple plan, it's just that there are lots of us on here that have had the misfortune of telling folks that due to a simple error, they now may have to tear down the front of their engine to get their truck running right.
Looking forward to the final outcome on the build!!
We often have folks show up here that are trying to figure out how to re-install an IP after removing the top gear with the pump. Seeing a picture like yours could lead some more to removing the gear with the pump, so thought I'd ask what you did or how you planned to time the pump.
Having marked it is a good, simple plan, it's just that there are lots of us on here that have had the misfortune of telling folks that due to a simple error, they now may have to tear down the front of their engine to get their truck running right.
Looking forward to the final outcome on the build!!
Oh, gotcha. Yeah I just took a sanding disc and polished up the teeth on top, then used a sharpie to mark out all the teeth on top other than the two that need to be meshed with, that way when you look down, you can easily spot them. Too easy
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Do you think the ZF will hold up to that motor? I've heard they were weaker than the T-19, but offer you an OD (which I would love to have with my truck which has 4.10's).
Just wondering the specs for the main studs because I asked about a main stud kit for mine and they dont offer one but more than likely one of the kits they have will work
Do you think the ZF will hold up to that motor? I've heard they were weaker than the T-19, but offer you an OD (which I would love to have with my truck which has 4.10's).
I have spoken to a lot of trans shops over the years since I owned my first ZF5, and basically what they have told me is that the fact of the matter is you get these "internet experts" that think the ZF5 is weak because of the aluminum case or because the synchro's burnt up, and occasionally the input bearing gets burnt up. Nearly all of those issues are attributed to poor maintenance.
Fact of the matter is, a ZF5 is a superior towing transmission due to the gear ratios, and dwarfs the T18/T19/NP435 in size contest. The main killers of the ZF5 are as follows:
Overheating or synchro failure due to low or burnt oil. People don't change their fluids. ZF put coolers on the ZF6's, I intend to put a cooler on my ZF5 using a transfer pump and bar/plate style cooler with fan.
Secondly, the DMF very often wastes the ZF trans. It needs a nice SMF mated to it. As for the aluminum case being a weak point, that is laughable. Nearly all modern medium/heavy duty trans are alum case.
Originally Posted by 86f250XLT-4x4
Just wondering the specs for the main studs because I asked about a main stud kit for mine and they dont offer one but more than likely one of the kits they have will work
Took me a while Justin but thank you for the information I will be following your thread on both sites very closely I am interested in seeing what you can do with your 6.9 if this works the way your talking would you possibly make the turbo setup for someone?
Took me a while Justin but thank you for the information I will be following your thread on both sites very closely I am interested in seeing what you can do with your 6.9 if this works the way your talking would you possibly make the turbo setup for someone?
I am keeping my other 7.3 that's coming out of the crew cab for this exact reason. So I can fab turbo systems for people. It's not going to be cheap, but I see no reason why I cannot be competitive with other new kits (I am going to guess cheaper), and by far out perform them.
I think I'm in love, will you swap that engine for my wife? She's blonde with a really sexy English accent. Someday I might be able to talk her into letting me have a spare that I can build.