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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #61  
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napass2004
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From: riverside ca
Ok great thanks dave looking foward to seeing the new pics
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #62  
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garbz2
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From: Glendale Arizona
Originally Posted by kevin206
Great looking build! hey, not trying to hijack, but I have a 64 that I think would look great a little lower to the ground. Do you have any pics of the truck before you thought about doing all the mods? And what about those WWW? Are they on the stock 15" or on the older 16" wheels?

I'm keeping an eye on this one for inspiration.
You can go over to slick 60s and see previous work on the truck prior to me. Should be under the AZ rat rod in the truck build section.

The tires are old fire stones, real vintage and 3 are wore out. They are on stock 15" steel innies.

We will be using new repop SS stock caps and beauty's with new tires.

Garbz
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:01 PM
  #63  
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LBF
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From: Steedman, MO
Great build!

I've posted this link before, but I am going to go with some pie crust cheater slicks from these guys on my '65 when it's finished.
Retread: Racing Tires. Oregon City, OR.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:38 PM
  #64  
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Kyle,

Here is the modification pictures for the modifications to the brake/clutch bracket and dash section to mount a 65 66 type steering column.

Start with cutting the old bracket to this dimension of 10 1/2" measured from the firewall back


Make a piece from 2x 1/8 stock about 6 1/2 Inches and weld it in place on the cut off end


Trim the ends back a bit on a angle


Clean it up a bit and mount it in the truck. It should look like this from the top with eh intermediate support bolted up.

And look like this from the front.

Next cut another piece of 2x 1/8 stock 7 inches long and set it in place on the dash section. Vice grip it down and weld it to the Assembly. let it cool then mark the dash holes. It will be a bit big so you will need to move it out sideways.

It should look like this when welded up.


And drilled and trimmed a bit for clearance.


And here is how the steering column looks with the dash modified from the 61 to 64 type to accept the 65 66 type.


I posted previously some pictures for the dash section change out.

I is easier accomplished by choosing the center of a switch for the cut on each piece as it can be sanded down a bit at a time to make a really good fit.

Garbz
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:53 PM
  #65  
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From: Glendale Arizona
I also worked out the front steering box location.

I will be using a 65 up manual steering box with the pittman arm indexed 90 degrees from stock in a push pull arrangement.

Here is the frame section. I will have to add a vertical piece to pic up the bracket.

This relief will allow a 1/2" plate mount with extensions to be bolted to the frame using two holes in the main section and on on the 1/2" mount, with one additional bolt through the bracket and a upper tab.


Since it took these pictures i have modified the shock tower for a bit of clearance and will add the upper mount.

I will modify the stock drag link with a section from a 65 66 drag link or a 7degree tie rod end to complete it.

Once i set the cab in place i can make up the shaft from 3/4 DD stock and some universals.

Garbz
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 11:55 PM
  #66  
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napass2004
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From: riverside ca
Wow much better explanation than I expected thanks for all the help. Nice work if I might say looks like it should be that way , hopefully mine turns out even half that good
 
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 12:20 AM
  #67  
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Ringo Fonebone
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From: Southern Alberta
Very cool stuff, Dave.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 11:01 PM
  #68  
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From: Glendale Arizona
Thanks John,

Spoke to Dean tonight.. You and he should stop by on Sunday for the build gathering.

My internet is acting up and every time i go to upload i have crashes, when i get it figured out i will up load the rest of the steering upgrades.

Garbz
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 07:49 AM
  #69  
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napass2004
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From: riverside ca
So for the column lower support are you just using the factory one from the new column or are you making something I plan on using an auto column so I'm curios what will fit I like the fact that you used a box in front of the axle don't see that done much like that

Kyle
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:13 AM
  #70  
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Ringo Fonebone
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From: Southern Alberta
LOL if i was to pop down south somewhere this year, it's gonna be Anguilla. Best of luck on the rest O the build.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 10:33 PM
  #71  
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From: Glendale Arizona
Well we had a build party on Sunday, Thanks to Eric, Bill, Kevin, Joe, Jim, and Greg for lending a hand. I have been having up load issues so here a fresh batch.

Added a bit to the frame to stiffen at the cut.



Here is the crew hard at work removing the axle to remove the lower overload leaf as it had to go to get enough bite on the new U bolts.



And here is the results. Also the crew relocated the e brake cable brackets and attached the cables to the frame to better keep them out of the way.



While the guys were working on that we made up a upper bracket and welded it to the frame to support the third bolt on the steering box.



This weekend i plan to modify the drag link and make up the outer and inner plates for where i sectioned the front frame.

Garbz
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #72  
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It was a Fun day for srue! let me know when the next build day is and i will be there.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 05:41 AM
  #73  
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Rusty 63
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Holy lowering blocks, batman!

Are those nuts hanging below his scrub radius?

Where'd Azratrod get those leafs?

Part of me thinks it'd be safer (& better driving with less axle wrap) to use de-arched springs without the big blocks. Not cristicizing, mind you - you guys have WAY more skill than I'll ever dream of having - but trying to offer some constructive input.

Keep up the great work!
 
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:43 AM
  #74  
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SixtySix Ford
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From: Highlands Ranch CO.
Nice work Dave!

Ive seen some of the S10 guys do bigger lowering blocks then that.


any chance you can email me that pdf yet?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #75  
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From: Glendale Arizona
Originally Posted by Rusty 63
Holy lowering blocks, batman!

Are those nuts hanging below his scrub radius?

Where'd Azratrod get those leafs?

Part of me thinks it'd be safer (& better driving with less axle wrap) to use de-arched springs without the big blocks. Not cristicizing, mind you - you guys have WAY more skill than I'll ever dream of having - but trying to offer some constructive input.

Keep up the great work!
The rears are stock 64 F100. The fronts are stock F100 with reversed eyes.

Yep we are below the scrub line but for a reason. The blocks are 4", the largest i found at speedway and the rear is currently to low. As we add weight to the truck by adding the body fuel tank and everything i will cut off the block to level the truck. I feel i will need to go to somewhere between 3" and 2" to do this and once done i will trim the u bolts. It will be close.

I really do not like using blocks like this but raising the rear frame is not an option nor is a larger C notch as we will be putting a custom wood panel bed floor in.

Eric (the owner) has no plans to rip and tear and knows what will happen if he does beat on the truck.

and Rusty, Constructive criticism is always appreciated. It is how we learn.

Garbz
 
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