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Have you done the disc conversion? Did you use the El Dorado calipers? If so, does your e.brake work sufficiently. Was it worth the extra expense, or should I simply use the chevy calipers?
I have done it and Ive have mixied feelings on it the brake is extremely hard to push down, Ive broke the ebrake bracket once already (that holds the pedal) and also had a issue were the mechanical ratchet in the piston of the caliper did not release and built up excesive amount of heat that toasted the pads didn't realize it till my next stop when I could smell it. It toasted the pads. Had to tear it apart, didnt see anything wrong with it, and it has worked ever since
Opps, I did use the el doraldo calipers The e-brake does work. I never got to look a the el doraldo to see how it actuates the e-brake. The calipers are not stocked at the parts stores around here. Don't know about the chevy calipers never looked into them. Will you need the e-brake for inspection?
I have the blackbirdscustoms kit. You have to make a e-brake bracket not to hard. But I have heard of some having problems with the e-brake not working right and blowing wheel seals. I have not had any problems and I'm going on 6,500 miles
I am doing the disc swap now if I can ever get some good brackets from ruff stuff. I didn't use the caddy calipers. A line lock should work fine and I eliminate the cables going to the back of the truck.
I am doing the disc swap now if I can ever get some good brackets from ruff stuff. I didn't use the caddy calipers. A line lock should work fine and I eliminate the cables going to the back of the truck.
Doug
I've been told that line locks are not to be trusted.
I realize the only reason everyone uses the Caddy calipers, is because they are the only ones oem with the 7" on center bolt patten that matches the chevy cals. the brackets were designed for. The companies producing the brackets could make this conversion simplier and more cost efficient if they would adopt the 5.5" pattern used on the 79--85 GM caliper with the ebracke.
Line locks aren't dot legal. No hydraulic E brake is DOT legal. For a reason. On top of that they are rough on seals and ETC, and they can lead to warpage of the discs (the caliper clamps on the disc to hold the car, and this holds heat into the rotor where the pads are, while the rest of the rotor cools evenly...
And should you get a slow leak (which is more likely due to high pressures being held on the calipers for a long period of time) you lose your e brake and go down the hill and kill the nuns again.
Most cars with discs have an internal drum brake to hold the car for the E brake.
Something on the to do list for my rig is rear disks, I've heard that you can pull a rear axle out of a 20XX E250 or E350 van, get an incredibly heavy duty axle, big disk brakes AND it even has the same lug pattern as our old trucks! (this is if you have and 8 lug rear, not sure about 5-lug, but you might be able to do something similar.)
Thats probably true. Not sure about width hub to hub or spring pad width, though. If you ever find a 1996 E350 Chateau, though, it will have a sterling 10.25" with proper spring pads, hub width, 8x6.5 and discs, from the factory, from my understanding. Not sure how the ebrakes work.
I am in the process of installing the disc kit on my f250 didnt go with the e brake calipers since I dont ned inspection. Chokes are cheaper
Out of curiosity, what do you estimate your total cost to be?
I had a set of the caddy cals., but let them get away from me. Now I am finding it easier to pay for the rebuilts and core charge than going to the junkyard 15 times to find another set. $100 a piece is not too bad, I guess. I read a thread where the guy call tsm. I don't know if it was a major sales crock, but tsm told the guy that you have to use the ebrake daily to keep it functioning correctly, and to keep the cals adjusted properly.
Some places have the rotors for sale so cheaply that it is scary. But I have read where Blackbird said to buy the cheapest possible, because the system is so over board anyway, they still work great.
My truck is actually an F-350 (going by the steering tie rods and springs) but former owner has replaced booster and m.c. with F-250 parts. I want to upgrade those as well. It is scary when you have stand on the pedal to stop.
I'll be very happy to have the rear discs! While in Mex., traveling over washboard rods, twice I lost my rear brakes. Once I had to clamp the line with vise grips just to get to a town.
I will get the name of the place for you. I dont really ever use e brakes, I have converted my 69 firebird to rear disc and no issues w/o the e brake. the kit was from Dana 60 or 14 bolt disk brake kits $315 shipped
the guys name is Shawn and his number is listed on this link with a picture of what you get Dana 60 or 14 bolt disc brake kit $315 shipped - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
Line locks aren't dot legal. No hydraulic E brake is DOT legal. For a reason. On top of that they are rough on seals and ETC, and they can lead to warpage of the discs (the caliper clamps on the disc to hold the car, and this holds heat into the rotor where the pads are, while the rest of the rotor cools evenly...
Most cars with discs have an internal drum brake to hold the car for the E brake.
Say what? There are millions of cars with disk crake calipers equipped with e-brake mechanisms... not too mention Mustang SVO, Lincoln Town Cars, Mark VII's, Thunderbirds, Crown Vics, Taurus etc...