I've thought of the caddy calipers for my disc setup but also read they are not so great especially with bigger tires.
What are you guys running for line locks. electric ones are junk as you cant leave them on for long periods of time. I went with a mechanical ball valve style one made by swagelok. Its high quality and holds for on any hill.



Benefits of this are:
Uses your brake pressure to hold and in my case with hydoboost brakes you can apply a ton of pressure to it,twist the valve and it will hold on the steepest hill you can put it on good for offroad.
The other thing I love is with my manual transmission starting on a steep hill wheeling can cause you to have to roll back while jumping to gas from brake. All I do now is put on the line lock give it some gas, slowly release clutch and line lock at same time and it just jumps stright ahead with no roll back!
The other trick I use it for (and was one of my biggest reasons for it) was again while offroad I can engage it on my back tires locking up solid and with my twin stick t case I can engage the front axle in front wheel drive only and with my hydro assist steering crank tires all the way to one side on a tight corner and just dig the front tires, pivoting of the backs and turn on a dime. Wouldnt really suggest doing this one on 44's though unless you beef up the front end as I run a 79 dana 60 front with 5:13's detroit locker, 35 spline chromoly inner axles and warn premium hubs
Basically these mechanical locks are pretty nice I actually researched it quite abit before finding this one and found that jamar mechanical line locks are junk and dont hold well while these are high quality and ver y small and compact just plumbed into your rear brake system. I mounted mine at the base of my steering column on the removeable panel for ease of install to plumb lines and I highly suggest putting it there and its pretty much in line with your master cylinder. Another trick is to put brass 90degree fittings right on the valve to plumb lines straight back instead of what a gradual radius brake line would give you...





o yeah part # B-42f2 for a brass one (55-60$ what I paid CND)

or S-42f2 for stainless pricey if you want it
you guys in the states could probably find them cheaper I'm sure

O and my lines dont come "straight" out to through the fire wall to master I actually have one more trick where it then plumbs over behind dash to my adjustable proportioning valve. Basically with my hydrboost brakes running off my modified and drilled pressure tested at 1500 psi saginaw powersteering pump it creates so much power to rear discs that I had to tune it down to the right front to rear bias without lockup. I could travel at about 50 km/h and lock up 44's when pressing pedal hard. To fix it I plumbed in a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve that was originally under the hound and fine tuned it down until rears only were just on the verge of locking. This time arounf with my new cab I figured what the hell I'll mount it on my dash so I couls twist dial up real fast while driving and use it to powerslide to a stop or around corners. It will also be funny to scare the crap out of people skidding to a stop making a loud 44" howl...lol I figured why not I like to have full control of everything on my truck.

 

I know of at least 10 diffrent cars using e brakes that are calipers not te internal drum set up

 

Now that's slick! Thanks for sharing that!

Josh

 

No problem man! You got that sleeper truck with a bunch of mods like mine dont ya? I got my 428 in the shop now but I'm just waiting on some TRW .030 pistons any day now and my heads just got finished the other day with some stainless CJ valves...Should be SHHWWweeeetttt!!

O and my top end is topped off with a performer RPM and new 770 holley Offroad Truck Avenger not to mention the rest...

 

What cam are ya going with?

That e-brake idea is exactly what I have been looking for. I have Mustang SVO rear calipers and the e-brake mechanism doesn't work for crap. Which wasn't that big of a deal with an automatic, but now I swapped in a manual and it's a b*tch dealing with a steep driveway, or idling the truck in the street or garage etc.

Did you go with an online vendor for that part? And is that what it's primary function is, hydraulic brakes? I may hit up my Parker store to see what they have.

Josh

 

Yeah the valve is sweet. I'm curious to see how well it could hold on a steep hill though for a long time as my driveway is flat. I dont know how long it will hold pressure for but I do use it when I park outside at work for the day on a mild hill and when i release it you can hear the brake fluid make a quick schwoosh sound as it unlocks so I know its still on.
I went to my local heavy duty hydrauilic shop and got them to order it for me. Just have a quick search online with that part # and you should find it. I wouldnt bother with the stainless one I think its almost twice the price and its not like you can see it anyway.
Its rated for more psi than your brake system can put out even with hydroboost at like I wanna say 4500 psi??
As for cam I emailed Barry R at Survival motorsports and gave him my build specs from motor, gears, and tire size and told me that I should go one step more aggressive than what comp cam tech gave me by going with a 33-248-4.

 

Doing a search I see it is a high pressure ball valve. Nominal pressure of 2500, which is more than enough.

Parker or Rocky Mountain Supply should have something like that. Kind of kicking myself now I didn't already think of it!

Josh

 

I know I hate doing things twice!! Thats why I research before I do anything now. Hopefully sometimes I can just help by giving some pointers as I pretty much have my truck dialed into whatever I can throw at it for offroad. Couple days ago I just wired up wireless remotes for my winches front and rear with sepearte controls on 2 frequencies. I dont know if you seen my earlier post I edited it adding a pic of my adjustable proportioning valve on the dash just to be able to powerslide around corners or lock up the rears to just mess around. I love too have the control of everything I even got a painless in cab dual battey switch which activates from batteries in connecting inn series only while ignitoin is on, just main, or over ride so connecting 2 even when ignition is off, powered by a custom made 160 amp alternator that puts out 100amp at idle.

 

As for valve being 2500 psi that sounds like what i remember. You do have to use teflon tape on the side 90 degree fittings you'll want to get cuz its a tapered pipe thread.

 

You've said you've had the valve on while at work, have you had a chance to see how well the pressure holds on a good sized incline for any amount of time?

Not that I would expect or want to expect the valve to hold a truck all night with the tranny in neutral, but just curious.

I have a ******* of a sloped driveway so it would be nice to idle my truck and work on it out of the garage and not have it roll down, across the street, down the irrigation ditch and hit some dumb cow.

Might make a good youtube video though.

Josh

 

O yeah no it holds good. I've used it on really steep trails letting it idle in nuetral while I jump out and hook up a winch cable or something. Like I say my only experience on long holds has only been at work on a medium/slight hill but I always keep it in gear as well. But like I said if you hear the fluid rush out you know it was holding pressure. Cant remember if after a full work day I actually put it in nuetral and checked to see if it still held but the hill was only slight not major at all. If you run it put it on your driveway but block it up just behind the tire real well and see if it moves at night. If you dont trust that maybe tie a rope to the front with just some slack and anchor it to something good up top. lol just a thought... anyways i'm out

 

You might be a Redneck if... everytime you park your truck you have to throw out an anchor...

Good stuff.

Josh

 

I think you're asking for trouble depending on that valve.

I found the caddy cals for a great price...$80 rebuilt for the set, including the core.

There's also a great article on Classic Bronco, tech section, about how to rebuild and adjust the e.brake so that it functions great.

 

Now that is funny right there! I have two chucks of specially cut firewood that stay in the back of my rig wherever I go, because the parking brake doesn't even hold it on level ground! The wood is just some cheap insurance that my rig won't go anywhere when I'm gone.

Sam

 

I chock mine.