E brake with disc conversion?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,172
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
I'm glad you mentioned that. Now I see I don't need it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,172
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
BTW, many disc oem systems have 2psi residuals to keep cals. from bleeding back to mstr.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,172
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
...Caddy Calipers.... I got one back together and started on the second. Only to find that some of the parts are different! So I have to take apart the first one again to make it right--putting to oem what Chewy and Luey got artistic with.
It's back to the j.yard I go.
I'd go with the Chebbie cals in a second if I could come up with an inexpensive p. brake. I remember my 67 CJ5 had a drum set up on the transf. case.
It's back to the j.yard I go.
I'd go with the Chebbie cals in a second if I could come up with an inexpensive p. brake. I remember my 67 CJ5 had a drum set up on the transf. case.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,172
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
finished caliper rebuild
I guess co's are trying to save cash, or make things seem cheaper, more competitive, by reducing the contents of the rebuild kits for these calipers. In the old days you would just one kit for everything. Now, you have to buy three kits (one for the seals, one for the mounting rubbers and anti rattle clips, and one for the bolts themselves), and you still don't get the ebrake piston seal.
Anyway, the calipers are ready to be installed. Since left and right are identical, except for thread direction on ebrake mech., they have to be mounted one in front, and one behind the rear axle, or one bleeder will be facing down. I chose not to drill and tap a new bleeder to eliminate that concern.
Above you can see the pistons are different. The one on the left is stainless. The bearing race inside was different too, but the dimensions were the same. I wanted to go back to the j.yard and get one more piston and bearing, but after they ejected me for taking a crow bar and hammer to their bottled water machine, I thought it wise to stay absent for a while.
It would be nice to get the above ebrake set up, but my banker has no imagination. Better yet a non hydrolic drum set up on the d. shaft would grab even better.
Anyway, the calipers are ready to be installed. Since left and right are identical, except for thread direction on ebrake mech., they have to be mounted one in front, and one behind the rear axle, or one bleeder will be facing down. I chose not to drill and tap a new bleeder to eliminate that concern.
Above you can see the pistons are different. The one on the left is stainless. The bearing race inside was different too, but the dimensions were the same. I wanted to go back to the j.yard and get one more piston and bearing, but after they ejected me for taking a crow bar and hammer to their bottled water machine, I thought it wise to stay absent for a while.
It would be nice to get the above ebrake set up, but my banker has no imagination. Better yet a non hydrolic drum set up on the d. shaft would grab even better.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,172
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
a bit of help needed
I bought a set of rotors for an 80 Chevy K20 3/4 ton with 4wd, and they are too thick to fit my caddy calipers.
I seem to remember someone mentioning to get the smaller rotors, but for that year truck--75-87--all the parts houses only show one rotor.
I was wondering if someone could steer me in the right direction here. Thanks.
I seem to remember someone mentioning to get the smaller rotors, but for that year truck--75-87--all the parts houses only show one rotor.
I was wondering if someone could steer me in the right direction here. Thanks.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
After waiting 10 days to get riveted pads, what a joke to have to go with bonded after all!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,172
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
Caddy rotor=1.2" (oem for these calipers) so it has to be the pads. These were the upper grade, heavy service. It has to be the pads.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,172
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
I'm glad I did the rebuild myself, so now I understand how these calipers work. But after many hours of searching online for pads, etc., and several trips of prowling the boneyards, and after rebuilding these about three times before getting the proper pistons, I can see that $300 for new ones from TSM would have been a bargain.
Tip: If you want to save $ and do your calipers yourself, pull the big 7" on center GM calipers from a 76-78 Seville (which are 1000X easier to find than the El Dorados, and swap out the pistons from a Fleetwood with the 5.5" bolt pattern). The Seville pistons are deeper and won't allow for the chevy rotor thickness. But the shorter Fleetwood pistons will. It is a simple swap.
TSI sells the brackets to allow the use of oem ebrake cables.
Tip: If you want to save $ and do your calipers yourself, pull the big 7" on center GM calipers from a 76-78 Seville (which are 1000X easier to find than the El Dorados, and swap out the pistons from a Fleetwood with the 5.5" bolt pattern). The Seville pistons are deeper and won't allow for the chevy rotor thickness. But the shorter Fleetwood pistons will. It is a simple swap.
TSI sells the brackets to allow the use of oem ebrake cables.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,172
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,172
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
The project has grown a bit. After seeing that all my soft lines are cracked--after only 35 years!--I've decided to replace all the lines. I will also be installing a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve for the rears, and a 2lb residual valve too.
If I want the bleeder on top, which is good, these calipers need to be mounted one in front of the axle, and one behind. However, I want to mount them both behind the axle, so I am going to drill and tap a new bleeder in one of them.
I also need to reverse the direction the ebrake lever rotates on that caliper. Since I have an extra mechanism, it will be an easy swap. It will make for a much cleaner routing of the ebrake cable with the TSM style brackets allowing for usage of oem cables.
If I want the bleeder on top, which is good, these calipers need to be mounted one in front of the axle, and one behind. However, I want to mount them both behind the axle, so I am going to drill and tap a new bleeder in one of them.
I also need to reverse the direction the ebrake lever rotates on that caliper. Since I have an extra mechanism, it will be an easy swap. It will make for a much cleaner routing of the ebrake cable with the TSM style brackets allowing for usage of oem cables.