Melling LPOP Install
Really easy to replace the CPS or lower radiator hose. Might put a coat of paint on it, rust pretty quick, I've spayed mine with rust preventative
First off, great write-up I believe I am in the same boat.
Question on initial symptoms though.
Did you by chance ever throw a check engine light while pulling a heavy load prior to replacing your LPOP? Consistently I will be on the highway and if I have a large hill the CEL will turn on and if I have fairly flat road the light will turn off after about 10-20 mins.
Thanks!
Question on initial symptoms though.
Did you by chance ever throw a check engine light while pulling a heavy load prior to replacing your LPOP? Consistently I will be on the highway and if I have a large hill the CEL will turn on and if I have fairly flat road the light will turn off after about 10-20 mins.
Thanks!
First off, great write-up I believe I am in the same boat.
Question on initial symptoms though.
Did you by chance ever throw a check engine light while pulling a heavy load prior to replacing your LPOP? Consistently I will be on the highway and if I have a large hill the CEL will turn on and if I have fairly flat road the light will turn off after about 10-20 mins.
Thanks!
Question on initial symptoms though.
Did you by chance ever throw a check engine light while pulling a heavy load prior to replacing your LPOP? Consistently I will be on the highway and if I have a large hill the CEL will turn on and if I have fairly flat road the light will turn off after about 10-20 mins.
Thanks!
First off, great write-up I believe I am in the same boat.
Question on initial symptoms though.
Did you by chance ever throw a check engine light while pulling a heavy load prior to replacing your LPOP? Consistently I will be on the highway and if I have a large hill the CEL will turn on and if I have fairly flat road the light will turn off after about 10-20 mins.
Thanks!
Question on initial symptoms though.
Did you by chance ever throw a check engine light while pulling a heavy load prior to replacing your LPOP? Consistently I will be on the highway and if I have a large hill the CEL will turn on and if I have fairly flat road the light will turn off after about 10-20 mins.
Thanks!
Hi Brian I sent you a private message regarding the CEL since its probably not related to this thread. But just in case anyone is reading and has any other insight I do have a 50hp tune and the codes I threw were
P1211- Injector Control Pressure Higher/Lower Than Desired
P0541- Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
P0640- Intake Air Heater Control Circuit
Feel free to message me back or I might start a new thread, again, new here and still learning how to learn on here.
Thanks in Advance!
P1211- Injector Control Pressure Higher/Lower Than Desired
P0541- Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
P0640- Intake Air Heater Control Circuit
Feel free to message me back or I might start a new thread, again, new here and still learning how to learn on here.
Thanks in Advance!
Sorry to revive an old thread but just wanted to thank you guys for this!
I've had my 1995 7.3 for 2 years now and it's always had that hard starting issue. I replaced countless sensors and seals. Decided to throw a Melling LPOP at it before investigating the HPOP further. Original LPOP looked fine as did the front cover mating surface with the exception of lots of sludge on the outside of the front seal. I'm guessing the front seal failed at some point but the oil leak wasn't obvious enough for me.
Just an FYI, someone does make a repair kit for those of you with damaged front covers. I have a cherry picker but there's no way in heck I was pulling that motor without a forklift IF my front cover was damaged. Link to the repair kit here if anyone needs it. Kinda pricey but I was contemplating making it myself out of some bronze on my vertical mill. Glad I didn't have to do any of that.
I rented most of the tools from O'Reilly's. Made my own flexplate hold down out of some scrap flat bar. My 3 foot torque wrench came in real handy for tightening down that crankshaft nut.
In any case, she starts up great now! Thanks again guys!
I've had my 1995 7.3 for 2 years now and it's always had that hard starting issue. I replaced countless sensors and seals. Decided to throw a Melling LPOP at it before investigating the HPOP further. Original LPOP looked fine as did the front cover mating surface with the exception of lots of sludge on the outside of the front seal. I'm guessing the front seal failed at some point but the oil leak wasn't obvious enough for me.
Just an FYI, someone does make a repair kit for those of you with damaged front covers. I have a cherry picker but there's no way in heck I was pulling that motor without a forklift IF my front cover was damaged. Link to the repair kit here if anyone needs it. Kinda pricey but I was contemplating making it myself out of some bronze on my vertical mill. Glad I didn't have to do any of that.
I rented most of the tools from O'Reilly's. Made my own flexplate hold down out of some scrap flat bar. My 3 foot torque wrench came in real handy for tightening down that crankshaft nut.
In any case, she starts up great now! Thanks again guys!
my 95 had a leak on the oil pump also, sometimes it would take 10 secs of cranking and oil gauge would move
thought i had a cracked pick up tube
when my Harmonic balancer failed, i went for new pump since it was leaking
startups are more consistent now even after sitting for two weeks
oil pump seal failure allows air in over time when sitting
thought i had a cracked pick up tube
when my Harmonic balancer failed, i went for new pump since it was leaking
startups are more consistent now even after sitting for two weeks
oil pump seal failure allows air in over time when sitting
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87oldtimer
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Oct 12, 2019 07:58 PM














