Melling LPOP Install
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 8
From: Hutchinson, KS
Did the Melling come with a new housing or is that cost separate?
If it's considered a "mild" upgrade, then I'm probably fine with keeping my new stock one I just bought.
From what I can find, the crank is supposed to be torqued to 216 ft lbs.
If it's considered a "mild" upgrade, then I'm probably fine with keeping my new stock one I just bought.
From what I can find, the crank is supposed to be torqued to 216 ft lbs.
PREMIUM SPONSOR
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,038
Likes: 73
The melling comes with a new housing.
Here is the torque in the Ford Service Manual.
Here is the torque in the Ford Service Manual.
Thread Starter
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Because racetruck
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 104
From: Monterey Bay, CA
Ryan, its all ready to go right out of the box. No need to pick up any other parts.
Also, if you decide to use the OEM pump, remember it only goes in one way or you will destroy the front cover.
Also, if you decide to use the OEM pump, remember it only goes in one way or you will destroy the front cover.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,156
Likes: 0
From: Yuba City, CA.
Did mine today. A few things I would like to add
1) A longer bolt is not needed if you have a 1/2" flat washer lying around.
2) Per Ford Manual: Apply RTV Silicone Sealant F5TZ-19G204-AB or equivalent meeting Ford specification NAVSTR D15-5012 Type II to the crankshaft keyway prior to installing the crankshaft vibration damper.
Great write up Peter, VERY easy job to do. My motor was a tad bit quiter, oil pressure went up roughly 20psi in the high range too.
1) A longer bolt is not needed if you have a 1/2" flat washer lying around.
2) Per Ford Manual: Apply RTV Silicone Sealant F5TZ-19G204-AB or equivalent meeting Ford specification NAVSTR D15-5012 Type II to the crankshaft keyway prior to installing the crankshaft vibration damper.
Great write up Peter, VERY easy job to do. My motor was a tad bit quiter, oil pressure went up roughly 20psi in the high range too.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,079
Likes: 11
From: LA and CO
Bump...
What "cover" have I heard some people refer to that can get "eaten" up over time by the pump gears? Is that the cover that holds the crank seal, or is it the cover that the pump bolts to?
Looks like I'll try changing the pump to see if it cures my problem. But someone told me that even with a new pump if the "cover" is "eaten" that I'll still have the same problem...
Any ideas, clues, help?
Thanks.
What "cover" have I heard some people refer to that can get "eaten" up over time by the pump gears? Is that the cover that holds the crank seal, or is it the cover that the pump bolts to?
Looks like I'll try changing the pump to see if it cures my problem. But someone told me that even with a new pump if the "cover" is "eaten" that I'll still have the same problem...
Any ideas, clues, help?
Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,340
Likes: 2
Bump...
What "cover" have I heard some people refer to that can get "eaten" up over time by the pump gears? Is that the cover that holds the crank seal, or is it the cover that the pump bolts to?
Looks like I'll try changing the pump to see if it cures my problem. But someone told me that even with a new pump if the "cover" is "eaten" that I'll still have the same problem...
Any ideas, clues, help?
Thanks.
What "cover" have I heard some people refer to that can get "eaten" up over time by the pump gears? Is that the cover that holds the crank seal, or is it the cover that the pump bolts to?
Looks like I'll try changing the pump to see if it cures my problem. But someone told me that even with a new pump if the "cover" is "eaten" that I'll still have the same problem...
Any ideas, clues, help?
Thanks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,079
Likes: 11
From: LA and CO
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 8
From: Hutchinson, KS
^^ WHS. The front cover is what the lpop bolts to. If it gets chewed up at all, then you're looking at pulling the engine to change it out. The oil pickup tube bolts to it inside the pan.
When you pull the lpop, inspect the area that the gears are against. If there's deep gouges, then there could be a problem. If it's smooth but just has marks on it from the gear spinning, then it isn't a big deal.
I'm installing a new Melling pump soon and am looking forward to seeing results with my big oil.
When you pull the lpop, inspect the area that the gears are against. If there's deep gouges, then there could be a problem. If it's smooth but just has marks on it from the gear spinning, then it isn't a big deal.
I'm installing a new Melling pump soon and am looking forward to seeing results with my big oil.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,070
Likes: 0
From: Catawissa, Pa
you use a regular washer. it has to be a large diameter and i think 1/2" hole. the stock washer it about 1/2" THICK. you cannot use the bolt with that washer. i was confused too...i just looked in my "stash" and found a washer to match the outside diameter of the stock one, used that and the bolt to draw the balancer in and ten took the bolt out, washer out, reinstalled the stock washer and bolt. i can get the correct washer size in the am if needed. very easy job...i was very scared at first but everything went as per Peter's instructions. good luck
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,156
Likes: 0
From: Yuba City, CA.
you use a regular washer. it has to be a large diameter and i think 1/2" hole. the stock washer it about 1/2" THICK. you cannot use the bolt with that washer. i was confused too...i just looked in my "stash" and found a washer to match the outside diameter of the stock one, used that and the bolt to draw the balancer in and ten took the bolt out, washer out, reinstalled the stock washer and bolt. i can get the correct washer size in the am if needed. very easy job...i was very scared at first but everything went as per Peter's instructions. good luck
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 567
Likes: 1
From: Northern CO
Spent yesterday installing my new Melling LPOP and ATI Super Damper. Was very easy and straight forward. Battling the fan getting it in and out was harder than the LPOP and damper. I did lots of reading before selecting the ATI and the biggest thing for me was that the ATI was 7 pounds lighter than the Fluidampr and seemed to be more recommended even in gasser applications. The two downsides are some people have had to hone the hub a bit to make it fit and its a little bigger diameter than the stock unit. Buddy from Empire Diesel Performance had recommended using (2) 70mm idler pulleys instead of the stockers so I had those ready. Some factory belts seem to work, others didn't. I ended up needing to use one of the smaller pulleys and the hub slipped right on, no honing required. So far the truck is running great, but only been on a short drive, and is definitely smoother.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 566
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
This may be a stupid question, but can the LPOP be replaced without draining the oil or will all oil in the engine rush out when it is unbolted? Mine has been leaking for a while at the oil seal but I just changed the oil and I hate to change the oil 4,000 miles early to replace the pump.