My crankshaft pulley on my 3.0 Aerostar is dented I don't know how or when it happened maybe when the wife was driving it.

Its not a huge ding just a 1/2 inch depression in the lip of it and you can now feel slight vibrations when in the van due to the pulley being out of round.

I don't really want to pull the flywheel becuase I would need a puller and it would be wasteful if it can be avoided is it possible to just swap out the pulley?

Does it only involve removing the 4 bolts sliding the old one off and the new one on? Or is it a whole assembly with the ring gear?

I will look at it tomorrow but I'd like your comments before I dive in.

 

I am not sure what you are talking about. Are you talking about the crank pulley that runs the accessories?

If so, it is pretty easy to pull. You will need to rent a dampener puller from an autoparts store to get it off. Also to loosen the crank bolt, you will need an extension on the ratchet and place it against the sub frame, start the truck (with the spark plugs disconected or the fuel pump fuse pulled) and that will loosen the bolt.

You will not need to remove the flywheel to replace the crank pulley.

You should be able to find one at any junkyard sense the 3.0L is one of Fords most common engines.

 

Thank you that was exactly what I mean't I'll check the nearest scrap yard first if not Ford will sell it to me for $26.00 but I want some experience getting it off the scrap car first.

Thank For Your Help .

 

The Haynes repair manual said that you even need a special tool to install the crankshaft accessory pulley is this true??

I know where I can get a puller and the manual showed me what it looks like put didn't show the installation tool I hate it when they do that.

Is it possible to install by hand? I would say when you tighten the central bolt it pulls the pulley to it resting place and this tool isn't necessary.

Any opinions here?

Thanks For Your Help .

 

Don't do anything yet. Wait till tonight and I'll give you an answer. I need to look at my 3.0L. As I recall, it's the 4.0L that's an integral part of the damper, and that one is really hairy. But the 3.0L should be just a piece of cake, requiring no special tool since it's just bolted onto the vibration damper. I don't think you need to pull the vibration damper for this job. If that's the case, it's a 30-minute job, depending on how much you are drinking while doing it.

 

Ok thanks alot I'll check back tonight.

 

Krankshaft:

OK, I check my 3.0L and the crankshaft pulley was held on the damper by four bolts. Just remove those four bolts and the pulley would fall right off. You may have to pull on it slightly with your hands. No special tools. To reattach the pulley, the torque spec is 24 ft-lbs for those bolts.

Good luck and holler if you run into problems.

 

Thats what I figured when I originally posted but I had some doubts after I got my first reply. Rather then go to a wreckers I ordered the part from Ford I don't think there will be any problems but I'll post if there are .

I found out the Haynes manuals intention was to remove the whole assembly rather then the pulley and to use the pulley as a stop for the pulling tool to yank it off. Fine if I was replacing the whole assembly or replacing the seal but I'm not .

Thanks For Your Help

 

I appologize for my incorrect directions. I thought that you were planning on replacing the whole assembly. I was not sure exactly what was damaged, but by the way you were speaking, it was pretty bad.

 

No problem I didn't explain it that clearly anyways I was running around trying to find the parts before I wrote this and didn't spend that much time on the explanation.

After the Ford dealership didn't have it in stock and told me 5 days I ordered it online and will recieve it in 3 days.

 

Well I have another problem I just got the pulley today I try to loosen the bolts and I end up turning the crankshaft pulley.

Does anyone have an idea to brace it somehow?

 

Did you take the belt off ??
I leave it on to help hold it so I can loosen the 4 bolts on the pulley.

 

Use the approriate socket to hold the center pulley bolt. If you have the clearance, that would be enough to let you loosen the other 4 bolts. If you don't have clearance, then put the belt back on really tight. If that doesn't do it, then you would have to bite the bullet and remove the starter. Then wedge a large screwdiver on the teeth of the flywheel to hold the crankshaft stationary. I'd suggest you get another pair of hands to help.

 

Well this was a chore due to the tight conditions it took me some time but heres how I did it in case someone else has to.

On a side note if you intend to remove the harmonic balancer I recommend you remove the crankshaft pulley first and put your puller on the damper itself its alot easier and gives you way more clearance .

Anyways first and foremost you can't remove the 4 bolts holding the pulley down without the crankshaft turning with the belt or without it.

I have a 96 3.0 Aero with an automatic tensioner and this is what I did on mine adapt it to your vehicle accordingly.

When I ordered the part from Ford the pulley was the same size but not exactly the same as the one on my Aero the pulley was the 2 belt model for some of the 2 belt 3.0L engines which wasn't what mine had however this isn't a mistake. This is Fords way of maximizing space in their warehouses have 1 part that suits dual purposes.

I recommend loosening the tension on the belt so that its still on the pulley but has no tension. To do this turn the bolt on the tensioner pulley and you'll notice to the right of the alternator pulley is an idler pulley the belt runs under it with the tension off the belt put the belt on top of this pulley and let go of the tensioner. This will allow no tension on the belt and it won't be falling of the crankshaft pulley getting in your way or falling off other pulleys just making more work .

Next you will need a 13/16 socket to put in the center bolt on the pulley you won't be able to see it but if you put your finger in there you can feel it get your socket on there.

Now get another socket and put it on one of the four pulley bolts now you must hold the crankshaft steady while loosening the bolt until it breaks free.

It takes a decent amount of strength on old bolts so don't be shy just make sure your don't gash your hands when the bolt breaks free or have a long handle ratchet so your fingers are out of harms way.

To make it easier a friend can hold the crankshaft pulley ratchet while you loosen the bolts or vice versa.

I didn't have anyone working with me so this is what I did I got a 1/2 pipe about 5 feet long and braced it between the bottom A/C compressor mount and the ratchet handle on the center pulley bolt. This gave me more leverage so I was able to break the bolts free.

This probably wouldn't be necessary if I had a breaker bar or bigger ratchet but I didn't have one on hand at the moment so I improvised .

Once you have the 4 bolts off the thing will literally fall off if the belt wasn't holding it.

To reinstall it is a little tricky there is a central lip to hold the pulley in place but it can fall off easily.

First put the pulley on the central lip and rotate it until you see the bolt holes afterwards with one hand hold the pulley and with the other put in the top left bolt this one you can thread by hand and then finish with your ratchet the others it was just to tight for my hands. Snug it up but don't tighten it until you have at least 2 bolts in so you know all the holes are lined up.

Install and tighten the bolts slip the belt over the crankshaft pulley and put the tension back on the belt by pushing the belt under the top idler to the right of the alternator pulley.

Your Done .