I cannot stress enough that you may want to rent a balancer set tool. It threads all the way into the crank and uses the factory washer and a nut to set the pulley. Places like autozone and advance etc. have these. If not something like this might happen....Especially if you have luck like mine.

 

Mike - Were you able to get the threads cleaned up and finish up the install?

 

I threw in the towel and sold the damn thing!!

Just kidding, a buddy is coming over today to help, he is going to retap the crank and we are going to set the dampener. Picking up a new bolt tomorrow. I had to work in the firehouse yesterday and to tell you the truth I needed to walk away from it for a day. We had four row houses on fire yesterday so I got to take out a lot of frustration! I feel much better today. Lol

 

Smart man...a lot of times walkin away is the best thing to do. You'll get it. I do agree on the install tool, usually a reason why they make 'em. A longer than stock bolt will do trick too, just want to make sure you have full thread engagement.

 

Did you guys have to pull the fan and radiator to get the balancer off? I'm finally going to get after mine this weekend and would like to know what all I'm removing before I actually start the R&R of the LPOP.

 

No and yes. I got mine off without taking off the fan but then removed the fan. For the five minutes it takes to do it the extra space is well worth the hassle.

 

Do I need to rent a special took to remove the fan? Or is there a good, easy way to lock the pulley and wrench it off?

I'd like to avoid pulling the radiator.

 

Autozone has a loaner tool for removing the fan. Some have used an air chissel. You don't need more than 10-20 psi to remove it. If you want to use an air gun on the damper bolt you'll need to remove the radiator. That is what I did and was pretty easy. Good time to clean between the fins. I was surprised how much dirt was stuck in mine. If you don't use an air gun you have to use a tool to keep the engine from turning while you remove the bolt. I think Stewart posted a pic of the tool he used in this thread.

 

I took the flywheel cover off and put two vise grips on it. One on each side, just keep them off the teeth. Torque for dampener bolt is 212lbs. And I pray with all my might it goes better than mine did! Lol

 

There is no reason to pull the radiator. The fan and the shroud makes all the difference but the radiator should not need to come out.

 

Great idea Mike! I'll have to remember that if I ever have the need.

 

don't need to pull fan or radiator. I did mine in an RV campground parking lot. 20 degrees and spitin snow. I did pick up a slightly longer bolt to start the pulley back one with. Cheryl had to sit in the truck with her foot on the brake/the truck in gear to get the blasted thing back on and torqued down!

Barney

 

What do you guys think is acceptable for oil pressure. I just plumbed a gauge to the top of my HPOP and I have 20 PSI at idle hot and 40 while driving. Never goes over 40 and occasionally goes to about 15 while idling. I just wanted to do a before and after reading of the oil pressure...

 

That seems a little low at idle. I was seeing around 45 psi before I changed my pump. I was checking at the test port by the oil filter. I think 10 psi is the minimum low spec. I did not do a before and after test. I'll edit my post with checks for wear on the lpop with some feeler gauges. Mine were out of spec. I had a hard time finding something that was planar and got some different readings.

On edit here are the links:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/m...p-testing.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/m...clearance.html

 

hey duck fan...what is your not having issues with starting. how can you tell or what are the sure signs of that leaking. im leaking right under that lpop and above the oil pan...is that the result of the lpop?