the installer kit i got from autozone rentals was cross threaded on on the bolt that goes through the sleeve and threads into the adapter, i ended up going to Oriely's and getting a better one and it finished the job... what a pain in the *** it was but i did without pulling the radiator or fan..

 

I know this is a bit old but a couple of things to add that I see are not in the main instructions:

You are suppose to put some of the Ford RTV silicone sealer on the key on the crank before the Harmonic Balancer goes back on. You can end up with a small oil drip leak there if you do not do this. It does not always happen or happen right away but its in the Ford Shop Manual instructions for a reason.


The other thing do not think to get slick and use a Air gun to tighten the balancer bolt instead of finding a way to keep the crank from turning. It can cause front seal leaks according to a guy that did just that. He may not have used RTV though I can not be sure. But to be safe use a tool or a second set of hands to hold the flywheel thru the inspection port. A screwdriver will work also.


A cost savings on the Melling Pump. Advance Auto has online discount coupon codes for online sales. You can still use in store pickup option on the online ordering screen so no need to wait for it to be shipped. I ended up with the pump for $49 plus tax after the discount coupon code. Do a search and apply the code that gives the highest discount.


Maybe someone can add these things to the original and PDF instruction set.

 

Yeah, Jeff (WA Ranger) posted about the RTV on the harmonic balancer key on the first few pages but its good to bring it up again because its easy to miss. I've been lucky that mine has never leaked since I did it.

I haven't come across anyone who's tried an air gun to put the balancer back on. I wonder if that was the issue or not.

Good tip on Advance Auto. They actually sponsor some other forums I'm on for other makes/models. Wonder why they don't sponsor here. I bought mine from Autozone because at the time none of our sponsors carried it. I prefer to support those who support the hobby.

 

Yes...
M208 came with everything.
2 gears and new housing including square base gasket and frt crank seal preinstalled.

4x 10mm get 20 Ft Lbs
Crank gets 212 Ft Lbs Good Luck without flywheel holder.

You should have a little silicone to put back on crank keyway into dampner.

Use a prybar to remove pump housing just don't narf up end of crank. New housing comes with pump tho.

Do yourself a favor and make sure you have the 47mm fan clutch wrench. None of my stores had a 47mm rental only 48mm.
Also rent a Harmonic Balancer/Dampner puller and installer.
I did whole job topside no problem. Except for holding of flywheel during install of dampner.

Great time to do CPS,Exh Pres Tube, Rad hoses, Water pump, radiator, Tensioner pulley, Etc.
Whythe shroud and fan are out you might as well type of thing. If you "that guy". I Am

 

On a three year old thread, with over 90 responses and no quoted post in your response, I'm having a tad difficult time trying to figure out to whom your response is directed.

Eh, I'm probably being too linear again and just reading your post too literally....over-thinking it....and the point of your post was to just add info.

Stewart

 

I was sent this thread by several senior users and used it to do the repair on my truck and felt that some of the questions asked were never answered so here they are for the next guy.

 

Like I said, over-thinking.

Sometimes I read a thread too literally and it looked like you were directing answers at someone and I was trying to figure out who.

Don't mind me...I'm that guy who adjusts crooked pictures on walls....

Stewart

 

Hello, thanks for a great write up. I'm trying to chase down a cold start issue, and was wondering if my symptoms fit a worn LPOP. If it's cold out (15 degrees or less) my truck won't start. HPOP reservoir is full to start with, but after cranking it empties. If I refill it, then truck will fire. Sorry, not sure if I should start a new thread or not, new to the forum. Thanks.

 

Well, I'm new, been reading and trying to learn for a long time though.
My brother and I are about to use all this excellent info to change his LPOP and hopefully get him running again. Even though this thread is old, there is still great info. thanks again to all contributors.

 

don't know if you have gotten anywhere with your problem, but my brother is having a similar problem with his 99 f250 7.3L with over 200k miles. We are in the Upper Peninsula in Michigan and this has been a pretty cold winter. His truck finally quit trying for the last time and we have been poring over the threads looking for answers. I can tell you what we have found so far and you can search these terms and hopefully find answers for your problem
read up on the IPR valve and the CPS (cam positioning sensor) there are other names for it depending on your engine - we started there, learned how the HPOP worked and found our way to the LPOP as the most likely suspect.

 

You should start a new thread with an in-depth description of what's going on with your brothers truck.
You're likely to get some good help and at least get pointed the right way. You've obviously done some good research but the guys here are extremely knowledgable in regards to these trucks.

 

Roger - will do. Thank you

 

No problem- hopefully I'll have some input to give on the new thread.

 

i had all these same symptoms in my truck as well. installed a melling oil pump and never looked back. i'm all for these pumps!

 

FYI, I used #9 wire (heavy wire) through one of the flywheel holes and tied it to the frame on one side to take the balancer off and then the other side to put it back.

Didn't trust one bolt to hold the engine from turning...

Travis