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Hey Mike nice to see ya here, join the fun LOL. No, no cause yet, but I'm hoping it's the timing plate, and not a cracked anything LOL. I just got the truck to the base hobby shop today and only managed to take off the bumper, hood, and front black thing that holds the lights.
QUESTION- for the A/C coil, do I need to disconnect it, or just take off the moutns and move it to the side or something? It could use a good pressure washing...
If that is the case then we should use part numbers or model names because I think it may mislead people on the oem parts. What Mahle pistons are being referenced?
i think i was one of them people being mislead..i asked if them kits had Mahle pistons... the answer i got in a PM was these kits contain ford motorcraft parts....
Danny, you need to move it to the side, do not disconnect it. Unless you have an AC guy. IF you disconnect, you will need to Pump down the circuit to make sure there is no debries in the system after disconnect.
Lemme retract my statement about ART doing cryo work- THEY DONT- may fault for assuming that. Y'all got any advice on doing any other go-fast mods, i.e. porting the heads, bigger valves, radiusing the oil passages etc? I know all the tricks with a FE block, but I've never seen a hi-po IH rebuild book for sale LOL.
Danny, You could get the heads ported and do all the internal engine coatings and that would help a little bit(teflon, ceramic, etc.). See that website i sent you earlier about the Cryogenic treatment. They treated me great when i got my stuff done. Customer Service is top notch. You cannot put bigger valves in our heads b/c the valves are already at the cylinder walls. There are a couple little tricks like cutting the heads down to get the injector nozzles closer to the pistons(more timing allowed) and stuff like that, but they are small differences and are more suited to a higher power build than your going for.
I'd say go for a cam(DI or stage 1 from Matt @ Gearhead) and a little head porting if you can afford it(can get expensive quick).. that's about it..
UPDATE- I got to tearing it apart on Friday. Took the water pump off, and it looked brand new, no pinholes or indicators of a leak. That means it could be a bad oil cooler, blown head gasket (doubtfull) or a cracked block ugggg. Still racking my brain wondering what would cause a stout iron block like the 7.3 to crack or fracture at only 320ish hp?? Hopefully that's not the case...
wow! Danny! hopefully it's the oil cooler! but don't rule out the head gasket yet! I would hope it to be over a cracked block! are you installing studs? you should since your in there! I know hp is addicting! looks like you drive the truck pretty rough? ;-)
Joe, how do you tow heavy loads w/that ported ats housing. I am thinking on going with that on my stock turbo with ww. I tow a toy hauler. Thanks Chet I am thinking about egt's that why I want the 1.15 ported housing, is that what you have?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.