I have a hpop at Terminator-- do you want it, if I can catch Joey before it gets out.. OTherwise I can pull mine and next day it. And just wait for mine.

 

same symptoms when I cracked my block between cylinders.

not sure why only a 1/4 of a shot glass came out though if your missing about a gallon of coolant.

 

I contacted Clay, knowing he had Joeys number at Terminator, I asked Clay to put a hold on my pump before it shipped.

Clay said, and not in exact words that why there are no quotes around it, I have a few pumps floating, if he needs a pump, CLay has it taken care of

Says alot about the people on this forum.. including the vendors.. Reps to you Clay!!

 

Same symptoms from my buddys E99 as well... His was a cracked block as well. Just driving along just like you were, but his didn't shut down. I hope this isn't the case on yours, but i'm curious about the water pump as well. I'm going to look at my buddys old water pump from his old engine to see if it mighta been cavitated. I know for a fact the SCAs were never check on it from day one so if his is cavitated i will take a chance on buying the engine to see if it really is cracked! Good luck man, hope you make it outta there soon without a major problem.

 

If the HPOP got a gulp of coolant, it would probably shut down.

I'm hoping for something easy as well Danny, but be ready for a cracked block.

 

Izzy,
Maybe he should take a sample of the oil in the High pressure oil reservoir. Just to see if there is any coolant. From what he said about the small amount that came out of the pan, I don't think that is the problem.

 

Wow this is getting ugly!

 

Talked to Danny a little while ago...he's looking for someone who can tow him back down here to work on it.

 

Remember, oil floats on water, so the pickup being near the bottom of the pan is a great place to send coolant through the oil passages in the engine, including the HPOP reservior.

 

Haven't seen this on fords but my early 6.2 chev diesels let loose their head gaskets and it forced coolant into the oil. I had two of them do this and one after it did this twice .then crank frooze to the bearing. THose motors where noted for this. I hope this isn't the case. I hope he had gauges when towing and didn't overheat things. God Bless and good luck on this. The dealer will say new motor every time. I had a van 6.9 that blow the oil cooler and coolant was all over the out side of the motor and they said needs new motor. I towed it home pulled the cooler welded it up it was fine.

 

Hey everyone, thanks for the well wishes and advice and input. My best bud picked me up last night and we pulled into his place at 0200 this morning, then got up at 0600 to get to my place by 7 to have a garage sale, try to make up some of my loss LOL. So they fixed the no start with a new IPR. But we're still not sure about the leak. We figured the most likely coolant entry point would be a cavitated front plate, and it would cost around $2000 for the stealership to do it. THAT, coupled with the knocking sound that's only getting louder- is what helped me to decide that I feel it's best that I just rebuild the engine. I listed the truck on uship.com this morning and got a bid of $415, so I took it because by the time I rent a truck, flatbed, and pay for gas, it's about the same except I don't have to make the 12 hr round trip while I'm also taking my CDL classes at night. Hopefully it'll be here on Monday. But I'm wondering if I should rebuild it at the base hobby shop or mess up my driveway?

Talked with Clay, and was advised to get the rods cryo'd and shot peened at WOP. Sounds like solid advice. But since I got the block out, I'm wondering what else I should / could do while I'm in there. Here's some questions I'd been rollng around-

-I'm already thinking of getting a new oil pan, as mine came from PA and shows it.

-I was told the original cam should be ok, but would it be best to just get a new one, and how much are they?

- If I can find a used front plate, should I jump on it just to be on the safe side?

- Does anything need to be done to the exhaust manifolds, surfacing or would getting them ceramic coated be beneficial?

-Anything else y'all can think of?

- Is my Chilton's manual good enough to rebuild it or should I get something else, and I've rebuilt a 390 FE and a 350 Chebby that both ran great, so is there anything "different" (like piston cooling jets) I need to be aware of?

Thanks again for everyone's help, and I really hope that it's just a bad cover and not a cracked block. I look forward to hearing everyones advice and getting this started.

 

Danny. I wouldn't trust a used front cover. I got one that supposedly had only 10k miles on it before the block got windowed. We were trying to save a little bit of money at work on one of the trucks. Don't know where it happened, or if it happened during shipping, but after we got it installed and all buttoned up, we noticed a leak. Turned out to be a hairline crack near one of the bolt holes. Believe me. The front cover is not what you want to have to change out again if you notice it's bad.

I wouldn't trust Chilton. If you don't have the Factory service manual, there's a link here somewhere with log in info to a library that has all data. Otherwise, I'd spend a few dollars and subscribe to alldatadiy. That will give you all the info you need for the rebuild.

 

On my 64 Falcon the front cover developed a pin hole. At first I thought head gasket so I replaced them. Still had chocolate milk for oil. Pulled the front cover and only after bead blasting it could you see light coming through. Might be the same issue for you. We just soldered up the hole (and epoxied some corroded out water passages in the cover) and that 1964 casting is still holding twenty years later and so is the entire engine. I've easily put a hundred thousand on the engine since it had this issue so hopefully your engine will be ok after this as well.

 

Chris, thanks for the advice- and then Andy comes up with a great reason why not to buy a new one and weld up the one I got LOL. I dunno- let's just hope IT IS the front cover.

How about the oil cooler- I saw a brand new one on epay for $150, not sure what they're worth or if I even need one. And we actually have All Data at the base hobby shop, I can ask them to print off what I need.

 

Danny, if you are gonna buy and overhaul kit from Ford, or Clay, it comes with a new oil cooler. Riffraff Diesel: Ford Overhaul Kit

Good luck on getting it fixed up.