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Diag Help Needed for Danny(Mongo75)

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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 10:22 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by mongo75
Chris, thanks for the advice- and then Andy comes up with a great reason why not to buy a new one and weld up the one I got LOL. I dunno- let's just hope IT IS the front cover.

How about the oil cooler- I saw a brand new one on epay for $150, not sure what they're worth or if I even need one. And we actually have All Data at the base hobby shop, I can ask them to print off what I need.
Sorry Man! Hopefully the problem will be obvious...
 
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Old Aug 21, 2010 | 10:42 PM
  #62  
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Danny,
If you are going to pull the engine, Try to leave everything on the engine except the oil pan once you get it out. With the engine on the hoist you should be able to look up into the lower side of the engine ( with the pan off ) you should be able to rig up some way to plug all openings to the cooling system. That way you would able to fill and put some pressure on the cooling system, any leaks should be seen from under the engine. That would give you some info on what to do for repairs. A good way to pressure up the cooling system with the engine out, is to get a bicycle inner tube cut 180* from the valve stem then place one end on the lower hose connection ( with hose clamp ) and the other on the upper hose connection ( with hose clamp ). You can cut to fit but keep the valve stem so you have a place to air it up. just air it up to about 5 or 6 lbs thats is about all the bicycle tube will take. you get the idea.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 06:00 AM
  #63  
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$3800 with studs and 910's to my door and with core return 3yr/75k miles warranty (i do not know these guy's or there work)
96-03 FORD 7.3 POWERSTROKE REMAN DIESEL ENGINE : eBay Motors (item 250468652847 end time Sep-13-10 04:43:10 PDT)

if your going to rebuild it your self and spend $$ on cryo'd..witch is a great idea..i have a set being done from WOP..dont waist cash on a stock rebuild kit or you will be doing it again sooner then you like.......i would go with this rebuild kit in the link bellow....stock pistons will crack with higher HP ..this kit has the Mahle Pistons in it..these piston take a lot more beating then the stocker..this kit also has other very good name parts in it and its all a step up from stock...WOP can coat the pistons and bearings as well to help with heat and friction
Ford 7.3 Turbo diesel Powerstroke 1994-2002


I know how sponsor pushy this site is no matter what the cost is....I am not putting down any parts from any sponsor...its just a proven fact that any one that builds a motor for more then stock HP does not do it with stock parts...
 
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 01:22 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
$3800 with studs and 910's to my door and with core return 3yr/75k miles warranty (i do not know these guy's or there work)
96-03 FORD 7.3 POWERSTROKE REMAN DIESEL ENGINE : eBay Motors (item 250468652847 end time Sep-13-10 04:43:10 PDT)

if your going to rebuild it your self and spend $$ on cryo'd..witch is a great idea..i have a set being done from WOP..dont waist cash on a stock rebuild kit or you will be doing it again sooner then you like.......i would go with this rebuild kit in the link bellow....stock pistons will crack with higher HP ..this kit has the Mahle Pistons in it..these piston take a lot more beating then the stocker..this kit also has other very good name parts in it and its all a step up from stock...WOP can coat the pistons and bearings as well to help with heat and friction
Ford 7.3 Turbo diesel Powerstroke 1994-2002


I know how sponsor pushy this site is no matter what the cost is....I am not putting down any parts from any sponsor...its just a proven fact that any one that builds a motor for more then stock HP does not do it with stock parts...
I have been told that the oem ford kit come with mahle pistons??

Ron, I agree totally about cryod rods. If you have someone close I would recommend cryoing the whole block.

I would also ceramic coat the tops of the pistons and Teflon coat the bearings and piston side skirts. I have a whole list if what I'm coating on my build.

Also, does anyone know if ceramic coating reflects the heat in the cylinder or does it allow the piston to absorb the heat still??
 
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #65  
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the answer i got from them is no they are not...there motorcraft parts...mahle pistons alone run about $600-$700 a set..thats why the cost of kits like the one i posted do not have oil coolers with them....i believe a rebuild kit from IH for a T444E have mahle pistons in them...but i cant swear to it..i know people here think Ford did everything right and stick to what they had in it..like the 195 stat.lol...they say ford did it..it must be right yet there the ones deleteing ccv, aih, EBPV, even stock air filter's...every thing ford put into the 7.3....IMHO from what i read...mahle pistons is the only way to go..
 
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 04:51 PM
  #66  
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i got a front cover ifn you need one to try before you shure nuff spend some $$
 
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 07:56 PM
  #67  
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Ron, I know Mahle is a great company, just wondering how much better would a set of those be than the stock forged pistons? Not that I'm trying to get off cheap as I'm definitely considering getting parts ceramic coated, but I do need to watch my budget. Pretty much what ever I spend is going on the credit card and some selling of my HO scale brass locomotive collection (that I don't want to sell). Times are tight, but I wanna redo it right!
 
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Old Aug 22, 2010 | 08:48 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
the answer i got from them is no they are not...there motorcraft parts...mahle pistons alone run about $600-$700 a set..thats why the cost of kits like the one i posted do not have oil coolers with them....i believe a rebuild kit from IH for a T444E have mahle pistons in them...but i cant swear to it..i know people here think Ford did everything right and stick to what they had in it..like the 195 stat.lol...they say ford did it..it must be right yet there the ones deleteing ccv, aih, EBPV, even stock air filter's...every thing ford put into the 7.3....IMHO from what i read...mahle pistons is the only way to go..
You say that the Mahle pistons are better but can you go into detail why?

From my understanding of the 7.3 piston design you can machine the bowl and reduce the hotspots. Why could you not do this with a factory ford piston? What does the Mahle have on the OEM?

I understand that people are more apt to go with the aftermarket brand but no one can tell me the difference.

I think with some slight machining and ceramic coated piston top you make a very strong piston regardless of brand.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 01:03 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by jkidd_39
You say that the Mahle pistons are better but can you go into detail why?

From my understanding of the 7.3 piston design you can machine the bowl and reduce the hotspots. Why could you not do this with a factory ford piston? What does the Mahle have on the OEM?

I understand that people are more apt to go with the aftermarket brand but no one can tell me the difference.

I think with some slight machining and ceramic coated piston top you make a very strong piston regardless of brand.
by the time you do the mods your into the cost of a set of mahle's thats already made that way..

MAHLE.COM | Aluminium pistons for diesel engines
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 06:45 AM
  #70  
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If they are "made that way" then why does WOP machine a set of them and ceramic coat them???

I'm not trying to be a d*ck but what info or stories do you have that show the Mahle to be superior?

I planned on running Mahles.. but I would love to know the difference.

Like the comment you made earlier about the sponsor bandwagon effect, I feel that ppl see that price difference of the mahle pistons and assume it's worlds apart.. and if your ever dip you hand into the wide world of marketing you can see buzzwords ahoy! in that mahle link. They use big enough words to try to sell me I would think I get a sham Wow! if I buy a set of pistons.

But in all seriousness.. plz tell us why they are better.. The OP is on a budget so if you can show justification for the price difference it would be much appreciated
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 09:56 AM
  #71  
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I hope we get this figured out soon- hopefully the hot-shot driver brings my truck on base today so I can start staring at the mess I gotta deal with uuuggghhh.... Time to start searching for rebuild posts!
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 10:03 AM
  #72  
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Wish I was closer to help Danny. I would love to get into a 7.3
Hope it all goes well. Keep us posted.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 01:26 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by jkidd_39
If they are "made that way" then why does WOP machine a set of them and ceramic coat them???

I'm not trying to be a d*ck but what info or stories do you have that show the Mahle to be superior?

I planned on running Mahles.. but I would love to know the difference.

Like the comment you made earlier about the sponsor bandwagon effect, I feel that ppl see that price difference of the mahle pistons and assume it's worlds apart.. and if your ever dip you hand into the wide world of marketing you can see buzzwords ahoy! in that mahle link. They use big enough words to try to sell me I would think I get a sham Wow! if I buy a set of pistons.

But in all seriousness.. plz tell us why they are better.. The OP is on a budget so if you can show justification for the price difference it would be much appreciated
The Mahle pistons are better in a few different ways. You get them machined to be exactly what your wanting if you want things like valve reliefs, bowl work, specific compression ratio, etc. Yes you can do those things to a stock piston as well. The Mahle piston has a different ring setup, better general piston build, better material, and they have oiling holes in the piston to get the oil straight to the rings. I'm helping a buddy build his 12v cummins and his Mahle pistons look to be much better pistons than his stock ones. It's just one of those things you have to read up on I guess..

OP, hope you get it all figured out soon. I hate seeing these problems surface. It makes me more worried about mine having 317k miles on it.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 03:18 PM
  #74  
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I hear ya Travis. Not to say that I wouldn't want the best, I just gotta keep an eye on expenditures. Conversely, I want to build an engine that'll last longer than 238k I already have, and although I haven't seen my innards yet, I'm guessing that the pistons are good to go. I definitely want pisons that have the relief cuts on the bowls though...
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 04:45 PM
  #75  
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Do we know yet?

The suspense is killing me!

What is the diagnosis?
 
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