I'm on the same boat as you Bobby, still waiting for the truck to get here! Will keep everyone posted.

Curious- should I get a new cam and lifters, or keep what i got? I'm right at 238k, so if I want it to last, is that something that should get re-newed? Also, since I'm keeping the van turbo, and don't really see myslef affording stage 2's snytime soon, do I need new head bolts, or new ones? I'd love studs, but can't justify the $600+ they cost...

 

You can use your stock cam no problem. The cams in the 7.3 don't really wear out. I would replace the lifters since the engine is out. Don't forget to let the new lifters sit in a bucket of engine oil for about 24 hours before you put them in the truck. IF you don't see yourself ever needing studs, don't bother with them. If you think that sometime you might get them, then save yourself the grief now. doing them in the truck sucks a lot worse than doing them on an engine stand.

 

From my experience in gas motors, Cam and lifters for sure, with 238k on them and you want to keep driving another 238k at least, for sure. Head bolts should be alright. Studs are nice and if you are going to raise boost alot more then it is a good insurance policy. Other wise stock head bolts of 7.3 are fine in my opinion. Chet

 

thnaks for the info guys- but do I need new head bolts, or can I re-use the original ones? Also who sells new lifters (if I need them)

 

Don't re-use the head bolts. If you're pulling the heads, put studs in there instead. For the lifters, either order them online, or search for alliant power on the internet. Find a local distributor for Alliant power, and they will probably sell all the other parts you need as well.

 

Chris, I'd love to put in studs, but dang, that adds like another $650 to the rebuild don't it? I wanna do it right, but I'm kinda on a budget. How much will a set of head bolts support? I thought they'd be good for up to what, 42lbs of boost? I'm only hitting 30 right now with my set up, and before I slapped on the van turbo I was putting down 320hp/700tq. Would bolts support stage II's? I do wanna do it up right, so if I really need to, I guess I can squeeze them in, but .....

 

I bet when he pulls the stock cam out he will see no visible wear on it. I have one sitting here with 300k miles on it that came out of a blown engine... It's in perfect shape.. could always put in a performance cam from DI Performance or Matt @ Gearhead, but i don't see the need to change it right now.

IF you can squeeze in studs, it's always a great idea. If i had a choice between stock bolts or studs then i'd go studs all day long even if i was keeping a stock turbo for awhile. If you think your going to come close to the 40 psi barrier then get studs.. Heck if you have to get the ARP's. I think you can get ARPs a bit cheaper than $650, just gotta do the hot retorque on them.

Are you going to get the heads decked and everything? If not when you put everything back together go over the sealing surfaces with a razor blade and go over it until absolutely nothing comes off the surfaces onto the blade. It took my buddy 3 or 4 passes with a razor blade to get all the gasket material off there. I would also suggest looking at the intake valves while it's apart. The intake valves on these things wear like crazy when compared to the exhaust valves. You will see what i'm talking about when you pull the valves out. The intake valve will probably be worn a lot more than the exhaust valves will be. Oh, get you some comp 910s while it's apart too. stock springs allow contact even on a couple stock engines i have seen..

 

I'm definitely gonna have 910's go in, and I'll have the machine shop check the heads and deck for straight-ness. If it's in I'll just go over them with a fine sanding disc to clean them up and give more bite to the gaskets. As far as studs, is there another manufacturer of them?

 

why are Mahle's better then stock?? for the same reason ford went from FR to PMR's...to keep the cost down and make the parts cheaper yet still hold the HP intended by Ford...hell..Ford didnt even spend the time or $$$ to balance the crank..most of us are over that HP limit..how many holes in piston or crack piston threads have you read?? not many here..but on the other site where you talk to the sponsor's and sled pullers that have been modding 7.3's since the beginning...there have been quite a few...them sled pullers and sponsor's are why we have stonger parts like billit rod's and mahle piston's

Mahle pistons are lighter and stronger..they take the heat better..the ring set up is a lot better..you get what you pay for....Swamps does other mods to them as well but only needed if your going into 600-700 HP range...relief cuts is a plus as well as little extra coating..
i got my studs on ebay for 400 a couple months ago...maybe watch it and the cassifieds on PSN..i see them go for around 400 on there as well..you should not re use head bolts..so if you got to buy new any how..mights well buy stud's....

 

I agree! If you want to do it right and not worry about it down the road.....then put in the head studs.

 

no sanding discs... Use a razor blade only and get the surfaces super super clean. Don't need to scratch the surfaces, just want them clean and this is how David @ DI told us to do it.

For the studs there are 2 different ones to choose from. ARP studs and H11 studs by A1 Technologies. The H11's are stronger studs, but are also more expensive. the ARP's aren't as strong and need to have a hot retorque done on them to get them right, but they are cheaper and work OK.

 

The pistons in the Ford OEM are Mahle, and even have there labeling on them. Of course it depends what Mahle pistons you are going to Ron as I know they do make a couple different ones for the 7.3L platform.

 

Yeah, he is talking about switching to the "performance" Mahle pistons. The aftermarket ones are built better than the OEM one is IMO, but they both will work. Stock pistons should be good for 400k miles or so..

 

If that is the case then we should use part numbers or model names because I think it may mislead people on the oem parts. What Mahle pistons are being referenced?

 

SUBSCRIBING lol...

I figure for my budget, since it looks that I gotta give the damn title back to the bank to take a loan to fix this (my first pink too damnit!) I do want it back sooner than later so I figure the stock rebuild set, get them cryo'd at ART right near me, and call it done. And if the rods don't really need to be shot peened, then dangit get them in the freezer with the rods and slap it back together!