Before I start getting hate mail let me tell you that I've spend over 11 hours in two days on this forum looking for the answer to my questions with my no start. Now on to the issue.

I just bought an 01 PSD with 182K on it. It was running great the day I test drove it and seemed to have very few problems with anything.
Fast forward one day. I bought it and brought it home, let it sit over night and now it just cranks and cranks and will not start. I plugged the truck in (It was almost 70 that day here in Glendale), waited 4 hours (I cranked it once or twice with no results). After the block was good and warm the truck started up, ran rough for about 10 seconds then settled right into it's purring mode. I took it for about a 20 mile drive and didn't dare shut it down, although the day before I took it a few places and shut it down, it started each time with no problems. This was all yesterday
Today, it's raining about 55* and the truck will not start again. I haven't plugged it in because I've been troubleshooting to find the problem rather than mask it.
This is what I've done: tested GPR, tests fine. voltage goes through when the key is on (only checked with test light) and I only get the front small wire 12V. Rear small wire still has no power.
I pulled the harness off the VC and tested each of the four wires to the GP's everyone was less than 1.1ohm and more than .5, seems fine right?
Other odd things going on that may be associated with it: When I turn the key on and wait for just a few seconds I hear a wierd growling noise coming from just behind the drivers side headlight. There is a slight oil drip seemingly from the trans bellhousing, but I haven't taken the cover off to inspect if it is inside or not. I cannot see anything wet in the valley.
So here are a few questions.
How do I test to make sure that I'm getting the voltage to the GP's?
What should the voltage be at the GP/VC connector when the relay opens up? (assuming that I can just unclip the connector and check voltage to each GP wire)
Are there other issues that would cause a no start when the engine is cool?
I've searched all the typical threads and spent over 10 hours on this forum looking for other things to check but nothing that seems to be the case.
I checked with the previous owner today and he said he replaced all the glow plugs 2 years ago and about 60K miles with motorcraft GP's.
He has been plugging it in to help it start in the morning...again I live in Phoenix AZ and it doesn't get what I consider cold here.

I'd appreciate any help please! I used to mechanic for a living but never touched Diesels. I'm learning at an astounding rate from you guys. THANKS

CrazyKen

 

So just going off of what I know about electrical systems I checked the ohms between the GPR and each GP wire to the harness with it disconnected. Every one of the eight wires showed less than .3 OHMs.
So as far as I can tell my GP system is operational. I'm stumped as to where to go next.
Oil level is right on the mark.
Wait to start light comes on.
I checked the GPR and it stays on for about 1.5 minutes (55* or so outside right now), then it shuts down.
I checked the GPR when first key on and I get 11.4volts on the output side, 11.5 in.
Both batteries are only 2 years old and have 12.44 volts when the key is off and they are disconnected from each other.
I can hear the fuel pump run for a while when I first turn the key on.

Any ideas? I'm back inside continuing my search on the internet.
I don't have anyone around to turn the key on for me but in the morning I plan on setting up the volt meter and testing whether or not I'm getting the voltage to the GP harness at the VC.
Can anyone tell me if I should get the full voltage (minus wire drop) from the GPR to the harness at the VC pass through?
I really don't want to start splitting the loom open when the ohms check showed the wires to be good.
Do the wires run directly from the GPR to the VC?

I know I have a lot of questions but I'm learning and want to know how the whole system works and what is involved. I guess maybe a schematic would be helpful too.

CrazyKen

 

Are you getting white smoke out the tail pipe when you try to start? If not you are not getting fuel.

 

When it sits for a long period of time, before you start it, check the oil level at the HPOP.

 

Subscribing...I am having this same issue this morning...i also did not plug my rig in last night bc it's been pretty warm here...drove the truck yesterday, and it was running great...this was its maiden voyage after the 50c mod and CCV mod...i am getting ALOT of white smoke, so, this is not fuel related...my guess is either the CPS...that i'm waiting on from Lisa...Kudos...or i just need to plug it in and let it warm up...it only got down to 45 last night...it really shouldn't need to be plugged in...anyway, glad to know i'm not alone, and i know my FTE family will pull through again...Lost, don't worry, now that you posted this thread, someone will jump in and help us both out...

 

Sound slike your HPO reservoir is bleeding down to the OP. check that and see how much oil is in it.

 

When was the last oil change? What grade of oil?I just went to 5w40 synthetic and the truck seems to start much easier now with temps in the teens.

 

Not sure when the oil change was done last, as I said I just picked up the truck on Friday.
I'm going to go out and see if it will start after having been plugged in all night.
If not I'll watch the exhaust. I didn't look back there before when I was cranking and it wouldn't start.
I'll check the HPOP level before I try to start it. But if it is low, what causes that issue.
I've been reading on the HPOP but haven't run across the thread saying what to do to remedy the situation.

Thanks all!

CrazyKen

 

I just found the problem....GLOW PLUG RELAY...if it is starting after being plugged in for a couple of hours...the glow plug relay has gone bad and is not letting the glow plugs heat the fuel enough to fire...look at the leads and see if any of them have a charring color...black terminals, the leads are not bright and shiny...if they look like that, just replace that relay...i'm on my way to Advance Auto to get a new one...they have it...this is a relatively inexpensive repair, and should only take @ 15 mins total...

Later FTE fam......

 

I wish mine was the Glow plug relay, it tests fine. (see first post in this thread) Leads have no black/char near them. Ohms checked each wire to the GPR and everything was below .3OHM.

I just checked the HPOP res, it was fine. Oil was only about 1/2" down from the top.
After having it plugged in all night the engine was toasty warm, I could feel it when I opened the hood. It started right up this morning, and idles just fine.
When I was cranking (only about 2-3 seconds) there was white smoke coming out of the tailpipe.

Any ideas? I'm stumped bad!! I will not take this truck to the stealership. I used to work for one and no more!!

 

Pardon if you said this and I didn't see it but have you had your batteries load tested? Are the connections nice and clean?

 

I haven't had the batteries load tested, I did take a voltmeter to them when I had the key in the start position. They dropped to 11.44 volts with everything on but the starter.
The batteries are cheap autozone batteries but the tags show they are only 2 years a a few months old.
Could this cuase the problem? I can crank on the starter as much as I want (without overheating it of course) and the engine spins quickly and doesn't seem to have a power drag issue.

I don't have anyone to crank on it to load test them as I live alone. Any suggestions? I guess I could run it down to autozone and have them checked, but the stores here in phoenix are crazy busy!

 

Lost Ken, I read, and maybe I missed, but you checked the coil wires on your GP relay, but did you check the large terminals on the GP relay? with the test light you can go accross the terminals, when you turn the key on, the light should go out, completely out, there should be no light glow. At the same token the light hould be on until you turn the key on.

Dont sweat asking questions here, these are a great group of people here, and they take pride in the their friendships created here..

 

Yes, I did the complete check on the GPR. I guess I have too much information so I'm not getting responses. Both large teminals have power when key is on and PCM commands the GP's hot, then the output side turns off. Likewise I only have power to the front smaller wire. I even tried shorting across the GPR last night with no luck.
I've done everything I can find on here short of pulling the valve covers and checking the harness inside, but when I do get it to start it runs very well. so I don't think that is the issue seeing as how the injectors are on the same harness and wouldn't run if it was disconnected.

 

Check voltage at battery while cranking. Should be at least 10.5 volts. After it is plugged in for an extended time the GPR may not be operating and no loss of voltage due to energizing the GPs. But when it is cold the GP's being energized and the cranking may be dropping voltage below the required 10.5. The best load test you can perform is checking the battery voltage while cranking.

Here are the starting reqirements :