I would get a fuel pressure readings.
You cannot use the other truck to compare
the buzz test. Your truck had cold oil.
#8 will show bad on the CC if you have a LL inj.

Being that the VC's are off. Pull the coil off ( 4 screws) of an inj or two
and give me the air gap under the square plate. (.001 to .004)

Bill

 

I realize we can't compare truck to truck but we did the buzz test last week when warm and this week cold. It was a huge difference. None of the injectors sounded like much was going on, just a very small noise from each.
I'll work on getting you the airgap tomorrow or later tonight.
I know that I shouldn't have too much gap there but what is a good gap?
Would the fuel pump have the same problem as described? I used to mechanic for a living but didn't touch diesels. I have never seen a car that would start and run right if the pump wasn't good. I'm just trying to understand all the idiosyncrosis of the diesel vs gasser.
Thanks

 

If you think all 8 injectors are suspect at once, I would question the fuel. Put some in a styrophome cup and see what happens. If any gasoline is present, it will melt the cup. Diesel will not hurt the cup.

 

Its why you should check the air gaps.
.004 is a new injector. .001 is the min.(rebuild time)
It will give me a general condition of the inj.

I would rule out a possible issue with no/low pressure, or air in the fuel first.
The psd does not need much fuel pressure to attempt a start.
The psd has a dead headed fuel system.

How much fuel is in the tank?
Was the EOT in range on the AE?
If you unplug the EOT the pcm will go full rich for startup.
It will smoke like a sob.

Bill

 

I will be able to check the clearances here in the next couple hours.
Tank has been almost empty when I bought the truck to now completely full. It runs fine when it will start (other than the slight miss) just won't start cold at all unless plugged in.
I really don't know the ranges to let you know when it was scanned but my friend has been doing this for years and said the only thing we haven't been in range for or passed was the injector buzz test.
When I did get it to start after plugging it in it would bellow white smoke for a second, more like one big cloud.

The one time it almost started cold it was spit out a huge cloud of white smoke then quit trying to start, just back to good ol cranking.
It always puffs a little white smoke when cranking.
I'm going to have to look up what EOT is. All these acronyms and I've only had the truck for 3 three weeks. I feel like I'm playing catch up for years of not working on diesels.

 

EOT= engine oil temp.
The pcm will change the tune with oil temp.
Does it stink of raw diesel fuel trying to start it?(exhaust)

Your gp system, hpop system check good.
Its why at would look at the fuel then inj's
and compression.

You will find it, with some time and T-shooting.
Just a learning curve for ya. Its a bit different
than a gasser as it is compression ignition and
the intake is wide open.

The buzz test set a code?

Bill

 

EOT (I should have known that one, but all the acronyms have my head spining) was correct, that was one of the first things we looked at.
Truthfully I never tried to smell for fuel at the exhaust when I was cranking (kind of hard without help). I only smelled it when it wouldn't start but belched out a huge plum of white smoke, it did smell like fuel.
GP system has been checked, rechecked and re-rechecked. I even went so far as to pull the VC's and the GP's then ground them out and turn on the key. All 8 light up correctly so I know now they are good. I pulled 8 good beru's out. I bought new wellmans to put in but I'm hesitant now that I know they are good. They look brand new. PO replaced them 2 years ago. Plus I threw on a brand new GPR just to make sure. (before complete system check)
I'm still looking for a compression tester to get that done.

HPOP system checked good too, up too close to 700 when cranking and we saw almost 2700 WOT when running it down the road.

I don't think the buzz test set a code but I'm not sure Barry checked codes after the test. I'll have to check with him on that one. Should it have?

Anyone in Phoenix area want to loan me a compression tester? I have the engine torn down and it would only take me a few minutes to run the compression.

 

The GP relay has 4 top posts. The large insulated post is hot when the key is on. The other large post (bare) is the glowplug side and is hot as long as the ambient temp calls for. The one small post marked with an "S" is the relay actuator . The second small post is the ground for the actuator circuit. Just because you are getting voltage on the GP side measured with a voltmeter is not an indication you are getting full amps to heat the plugs. I checked mine by taking a pair of slipjoint pliers and jumping the 2 large posts, the pliers got hot in my hands, proving the amps are there and the relay was bad.
It might be worth a try.
A J

 

Not to be rude, but did you read my last post? I actually have tested the system by pulling out the glow plugs, grounding them and turning the key on. They all get red hot and light up correctly.

I may be new to diesels but I make sure I know what I'm doing when performing tests.
Besides even after finding no fault with the system I replaced the glow plug relay and retested it all. It works without fault.
I really do with it had been the relay. I wouldn't have had to spend the 55 hours during the last two weeks working on the truck and digging through every internet forum I can find for answers.

 

I can't remember but I think Autozone might have compression testers on the loan-a-tool program. If you have one close you might give them a call and see.

 

I checked with them and checker auto already, they do have compression testers but not for the diesel. I called Napa but they want 140 to buy one.
I may have to break down and go to harbor frieght for a cheaper one. I can't afford much right now. I was just hoping to borrow one for an hour.

 

I would be very surprised if all eight cylinders were down on compression.
.

 

I would as well, but as much as I'm afraid to find something else wrong I'd rather do it correctly while I'm in there!

 

Might want to read the last couple pages of this thread. Shorts cause all kind of crazy non-logical things. Devin had a no start condition at times also.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-skipping.html

Just a thought.....

Good Luck!

 

Thanks I'll check into that, but I don't think it is the problem. I've had the valv cover off in that area twice now and it didn't even come close to that area. Besides it would run fine once started, just a cold no start issue unless plugged in.
I will check all the wires over closely since I have everything torn out of the engine compartment right now though. It never hurts!