Starting issues. Please help!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
Today I got all the injectors pulled out of the truck. The nozzles were carboned up quite badly. I believe there was only one of the injectors that I could see the holes in the nozzle. Seems like that is the problem! I already ordered the DIY stage 2 kit from Rosewood diesel shop and hopefully will have it tomorrow. I luckily ordered one with new nozzles.
I should be able to tear these down and get everything nice and clean and refreshed this week.
I'll let you all know how it goes. I plan on taking a lot of pictures along the way and possibly doing a write up on the process. I'm on 3 or 4 forums and I haven't been able to find good information about the DIY process. I just hope it will help someone else out along the way.
I should be able to tear these down and get everything nice and clean and refreshed this week.
I'll let you all know how it goes. I plan on taking a lot of pictures along the way and possibly doing a write up on the process. I'm on 3 or 4 forums and I haven't been able to find good information about the DIY process. I just hope it will help someone else out along the way.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
I haven't gotten that far yet, only cleaned up and ready to check. The kit I bought comes with instructions on how to check everything to make sure they are rebuildable before I get too far into them.
IIRC you have to put power to the solinoid before measureing the gap correct?
I'll have to see if I can find information on the forum to make sure I'm doing it correctly.
IIRC you have to put power to the solinoid before measureing the gap correct?
I'll have to see if I can find information on the forum to make sure I'm doing it correctly.
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
lostman -
I want to thank you for keeping this thread informed. my '01 F-350 has the same issues that it won't start if it gets below 50 degrees. I took it to a local diesel performance shop and they replaced the relay and heater in the intake. I believe they called it the IAH and relay. turns out neither of which would have anything to do with cold starting. They also said the IDM failed tesdting and would gladly replace it for $700 since they got a 'deal' on some. Needless to say I replaced it with a rebuilt one for under 200 bucks, yet it still won't start when cold. I replaced the GP's two years ago, so my situation is almost exactly like yours.
I'll be here lurking and watching the outcome, then plan on ordering what might fix it. I did order a code scanner to check the codes coming from the truck. Again, thanks for keeping us informed.
I want to thank you for keeping this thread informed. my '01 F-350 has the same issues that it won't start if it gets below 50 degrees. I took it to a local diesel performance shop and they replaced the relay and heater in the intake. I believe they called it the IAH and relay. turns out neither of which would have anything to do with cold starting. They also said the IDM failed tesdting and would gladly replace it for $700 since they got a 'deal' on some. Needless to say I replaced it with a rebuilt one for under 200 bucks, yet it still won't start when cold. I replaced the GP's two years ago, so my situation is almost exactly like yours.
I'll be here lurking and watching the outcome, then plan on ordering what might fix it. I did order a code scanner to check the codes coming from the truck. Again, thanks for keeping us informed.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
lostman -
I want to thank you for keeping this thread informed. my '01 F-350 has the same issues that it won't start if it gets below 50 degrees. I took it to a local diesel performance shop and they replaced the relay and heater in the intake. I believe they called it the IAH and relay. turns out neither of which would have anything to do with cold starting. They also said the IDM failed tesdting and would gladly replace it for $700 since they got a 'deal' on some. Needless to say I replaced it with a rebuilt one for under 200 bucks, yet it still won't start when cold. I replaced the GP's two years ago, so my situation is almost exactly like yours.
I'll be here lurking and watching the outcome, then plan on ordering what might fix it. I did order a code scanner to check the codes coming from the truck. Again, thanks for keeping us informed.
I want to thank you for keeping this thread informed. my '01 F-350 has the same issues that it won't start if it gets below 50 degrees. I took it to a local diesel performance shop and they replaced the relay and heater in the intake. I believe they called it the IAH and relay. turns out neither of which would have anything to do with cold starting. They also said the IDM failed tesdting and would gladly replace it for $700 since they got a 'deal' on some. Needless to say I replaced it with a rebuilt one for under 200 bucks, yet it still won't start when cold. I replaced the GP's two years ago, so my situation is almost exactly like yours.
I'll be here lurking and watching the outcome, then plan on ordering what might fix it. I did order a code scanner to check the codes coming from the truck. Again, thanks for keeping us informed.
I noticed your usename, what do you fly? I was just informed of a lay off from my company but I've been flying a brand new Cirrus for 2.5 years for a company out of Vegas.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
I have flown everything from my 172's and 177 to a citationjet, with some stops inbetween. Currently I am building a glasair that will be my traveling machine. My 177 sat at McCarren field for 25 years before i purchased it. Flew it home from Henderson.
I noticed our trucks are similar, mine is an '01 F350 4x4 dually, crew cab with a longbed. We call it 'Tiny' has just over 179k on it. Owned it for 5 years now (bought it with 150k on it).
I noticed our trucks are similar, mine is an '01 F350 4x4 dually, crew cab with a longbed. We call it 'Tiny' has just over 179k on it. Owned it for 5 years now (bought it with 150k on it).
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Thought I'd add this to see if your truck acts the same... mine tends to shake at low rpms under load (say 45mph in overdrive going up a hill 1300rpm). If it were a gasser I'd say it is dropping cylinders. Funny thing, replacing the IDM seems to make it quieter.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
interesting, I haven't taken it up any hills yet. I've only had the truck since the 17th and I've seen way more time under the hood that in the seat. To date I've driven it 100 miles and spent over 60 hours working on it or researching the problem. about 20 hours actually under the hood.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
Bill
I only had time to check the gaps on #1 and 3 injectors tonight.
A= under armature
b=between armature and solenoid
c=between armature and solenoid when energized
#1 a .001 b.015 c.0015
#3 a .002 b.016 c.0015 (need to recheck I realized after doing it that I had the #1 solenoid in place and want to make sure I keep the same solenoid with the correct body)
I'll have to check the other ones tomorrow.
Hopefully this is what you were asking about. I don't have the complete instructions on doing it but found a quick write up on Jim's site. The actual instructions come in the DIY kit. Hopefully I'll see that tomorrow.
As I stated before the nozzles seem to be the big problem upon initial inspection. All 8 have a high degree of carbon on them and they did not look like they would flow well being plugged up that way.
I only had time to check the gaps on #1 and 3 injectors tonight.
A= under armature
b=between armature and solenoid
c=between armature and solenoid when energized
#1 a .001 b.015 c.0015
#3 a .002 b.016 c.0015 (need to recheck I realized after doing it that I had the #1 solenoid in place and want to make sure I keep the same solenoid with the correct body)
I'll have to check the other ones tomorrow.
Hopefully this is what you were asking about. I don't have the complete instructions on doing it but found a quick write up on Jim's site. The actual instructions come in the DIY kit. Hopefully I'll see that tomorrow.
As I stated before the nozzles seem to be the big problem upon initial inspection. All 8 have a high degree of carbon on them and they did not look like they would flow well being plugged up that way.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Injector or injectors are getting worn out.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 0
From: Levittown
Bill
I only had time to check the gaps on #1 and 3 injectors tonight.
A= under armature
b=between armature and solenoid
c=between armature and solenoid when energized
#1 a .001 b.015 c.0015
#3 a .002 b.016 c.0015 (need to recheck I realized after doing it that I had the #1 solenoid in place and want to make sure I keep the same solenoid with the correct body)
I'll have to check the other ones tomorrow.
Hopefully this is what you were asking about. I don't have the complete instructions on doing it but found a quick write up on Jim's site. The actual instructions come in the DIY kit. Hopefully I'll see that tomorrow.
As I stated before the nozzles seem to be the big problem upon initial inspection. All 8 have a high degree of carbon on them and they did not look like they would flow well being plugged up that way.
I only had time to check the gaps on #1 and 3 injectors tonight.
A= under armature
b=between armature and solenoid
c=between armature and solenoid when energized
#1 a .001 b.015 c.0015
#3 a .002 b.016 c.0015 (need to recheck I realized after doing it that I had the #1 solenoid in place and want to make sure I keep the same solenoid with the correct body)
I'll have to check the other ones tomorrow.
Hopefully this is what you were asking about. I don't have the complete instructions on doing it but found a quick write up on Jim's site. The actual instructions come in the DIY kit. Hopefully I'll see that tomorrow.
As I stated before the nozzles seem to be the big problem upon initial inspection. All 8 have a high degree of carbon on them and they did not look like they would flow well being plugged up that way.
the poppet to get the air gap needed.
The carbon buildup really does not hurt the flow.
It hurts the spray pattern.
Jim will hook u up with info and parts.
Bill
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
Thanks Bill!
I appreciate the comments. I was about ready to toss in the towel and resell the kit. I found a guy locally that has stock injectors for 800 no cores with 10K miles on them. I figured I could just run it stock and have it done with. But I should have the rebuild kit here today for my injectors and if everything goes well I'll have it all back together tonight and running....baring any more issues or machine work.
I appreciate the comments. I was about ready to toss in the towel and resell the kit. I found a guy locally that has stock injectors for 800 no cores with 10K miles on them. I figured I could just run it stock and have it done with. But I should have the rebuild kit here today for my injectors and if everything goes well I'll have it all back together tonight and running....baring any more issues or machine work.