hah! Missed that! Great minds......

 

Thanks guys, just got home from work. I'm going to hook up my car with jumper cables and see if that will work. I would love it if it was the batteries! Warranty item here I come!!
I'm wondering if that doesn't work if I should go ahead and hook up my 200Amp starter box at the same time, just to try it. Can't have too many amps can you??

 

Humor us and try it.

 

I X2'd hoping lostman would notice. He did.

X2 to "Great minds......"

 

I know everybody here has your best interests in mind, and really want you to be out burning up more diesel...i have been reading this thread daily, after driving my newly smooth starting rig, and will reiterate my previous post...i still say go down to the parts store and get a new GPR...mine tested fine too, but turned out to be the issue...i talked to Advance Auto (where i bought mine) and asked about their return policy for this part...if you buy one, and the problem is still there...they will take it back, as long as you return it that day or the next...not to wait a week or 2 to take it back...so, that being said...go get a GPR, put it in the truck...it takes all of 10 minutes, seriously...if it doesn't work...take it back...what do you have to lose...???...my first .02+this .02= .04...lol...

 

Found out least one problem.
It was not the batteried, I hooked up my care with brand new battery and my 200A car charger (start position) Still wouldn't fire up.
So I went into the valve covers, drivers side is off, the 50C mod needs to be done! The harness was just connected enough to make the injectors fire but pulled out so that the GP's aren't getting any juice. More later, but for now back the the garage. Just had to check weather, thought I heard lightning!!

 

Ok for tonights progress:
I pulled the driver side valve cover and found the harness was not plugged in all the way, so I thought sweet I've got it! I did the 50C mod. While I was there I went ahead and pulled the #1 glow plug. I tested it quickly on the battery to make sure it would light up (only 1/2 second until I saw it get hot, then disconnected it).
While I'm at it I tested the GPR again, this time no voltage goes through, so I go buy a new one (autozone mr99 $17.99). I throw it on and while I have the glowplug out I hook it back to the harness and turn the key one....nothing! So I get to thinking about it and realize I had to disconnect the main wire harness that runs over the VC! DUH, connect it up and turn the key again...this time the GP lights up!! Yay. So I put clean everything up, and put it back together thinking I've got it licked.
Fastforward 25 minutes, I try to start it again and nothing!! It still will not start.
I realize I only did the drivers side and I need to do the passenger side but I really thought I was on to something. I tested the original GPR again on the bench and it is good, I replaced it before I remembered I disconnected the harness.
So I'm back to square one, other than the 50C mod is 1/2 done, so I guess I have the 25C mod complete... I'm still stumped.

 

Hmmmmmm.
It is starting to sound like you need to get it scanned for a possible failing IDM or something like that.

 

Ok been working in the rain for several hours on various things.
I've rechecked the new GPR, tests ok
Using a voltmeter I connected it to the batteries and turned the key on, I get a drop of about 1 volt when the GPR kicks on (11.5volts)
Jumped across the GPR and watched the drop again, same as key on.
Changed the oil, just in case I wasn't getting good pressure with worn oil. I have no idea when it was changed last and was going to do it anyway.
Replaced the only other terminal that was even close to not being perfect.
Charged batteries.
Now when I crank it I don't see much white smoke from the exhaust (not sure how much was there before)
It tried to start one and belched out a huge white cloud of smoke.

Still won't start. I GIVE UP!!! Found another forum for Arizona powerstroke owners and have someone with an AE coming over on Saturday to see what he can do to help me.

I'm really beginning to wonder about oil pressure from the HPOP but have no way to test it. Maybe my injectors aren't opening up.

 

Apologies for coming across like a jacka$$ over that GPR...wasn't trying to be...don't give up...this is probably something really weird that you'll kick your own butt over when you have that "AH HA!!" moment and get it running...i hope you get it running Saturday when your help shows up...

 

David, I don't think the OP or any of us think you were being a donkey/horse crossbreed.

It's difficult to analyze stuff over the net and all we have going for us is to probe for the most information possible for the problem and try to help. I will fully admit that I suggest solutions that are not correct most of the time! But we all have a good bond and brotherhood here and have a passion for these trucks AND like to help! Plus we always are asking for the solution to be posted so we can all learn from the AH HA!! moment.

 

Here's a test to rule out GP harness to GPR problems. Omh out the female UVCH connector back to the GPR to check continuity and resistance. Will help to rule out or find any problems in that portion of the harness.

 

I hope I didn't make it sound that I thought you were coming across as being a "jacka$$", I didn't. I just have to restate sometimes what has been done. Especially when the thread starts to get long and people don't read or simply miss something I stated earlier

AMEN! I belong to several other forums where I'm very knowledgable, and often post correct fixes. It is not easy to diagnos over the internet.

I've done this test more times than I care to admit already. I keep checking over the same things hoping I just missed something already.
I've even gotten the glow plug to 'lite up' when I pulled it out of the #1 cylinder and grounded it. I figured since the others all tested fine I had found the problem with the loose connector inside the VC. But alas I had not, it still won't start cold. I do have to go back into the passengers side and see if it is loose, but I get good ohms readings on testing all four GP's there.

Even if I'm frustrated and can't figure it out I don't mean to come across as being rude! I truely appreciate the efforts even if it is beating a dead horse at times.

Thanks again all.
Keep the ideas coming, I'll try just about anything but throwing parts at it.

One questions though, will a CPS that is going bad allow it to run?
I'm wondering if warming up the sensor allows it to make contact internally when otherwise it may have a short.
Just a thought.

CrazyKen

 

Doesn't sound like a CPS becuase it runs good once started. The CPS is really just a magnet that senses the windows on the cam gear pass by. It's a type of hall effect vane sensor, but not in the strictest sense of the term.

Here's a great cut-a-way pic.

 

That's what I thought, I probably should go buy one to have around though. I've heard they have problems just leaving you stranded.
I had one go bad on a Jeep a number of years ago that would be intermitent. Dang thing caused headaches even for the mechanics. I ended up fixing it myself after some very well known mechanics couldn't figure it out.
I then became a full time mechanic with a specialty in Jeeps, but never touched Diesels. I'm learning all too quickly!