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Thank you! I think I'll go have the batteries tested since I don't have a helper to crank for me to do a good load test.
You might be on to something though.
If I read that correctly, even if I have good cranking but not over 10.5 volts I may not be able to get it started cold?
I don't know the oil pressure but level is good and HPOP is full and not bleeding down.
I dont' know fuel quality either but again it runs great when I can get it started.
If I read that correctly, even if I have good cranking but not over 10.5 volts I may not be able to get it started cold?
Even a warm engine needs 10.5 volts while cranking. If voltage is not 10.5 while cranking the IDM will not operate the injector solenoids and hence no fuel and no start. When your engine is warm the GPR may not be operating and there is no extra drain on the batteries to engergize the GPs. I suspect when your engine is cold the extra drain on the batts to energize the GPs is dropping the voltage too low to start.
You should go over to the AZ chapter and see if someone would be willing to help you. FTE AZ Chapter LINK. If I lived in the Valley I would be there by now.
If you have another vehicle or a spare fully charged battery try jump starting it when it is cold. If it starts you know it is a battery problem.
I went over to Autozone and had them load test the batteries. They tested good but I wonder if it is correct since they didn't disconnect one batter from the other while testing.
Any ideas?
I'm going to clean all the terminals and replace one that is questionable to see what I can figure out. Also bought a fuel filter because I'm not sure when it was replaced last.
I will likely change the oil this week sometime as I don't know much about the history other than it appears the PO took good care of it.
PaysonAZ thanks for the link to the AZ site, I didn't realize there was one. I appreciate the offer at the very least!!
In all likelyhood I will not get this fixed as the rain is coming into the valley and I don't feel like getting too wet today.
I went over to Autozone and had them load test the batteries. They tested good but I wonder if it is correct since they didn't disconnect one battery from the other while testing.
Any ideas? I'm going to clean all the terminals and replace one that is questionable to see what I can figure out. Also bought a fuel filter because I'm not sure when it was replaced last.
I will likely change the oil this week sometime as I don't know much about the history other than it appears the PO took good care of it.
PaysonAZ thanks for the link to the AZ site, I didn't realize there was one.
I appreciate the offer at the very least!!
In all likelyhood I will not get this fixed as the rain is coming into the valley and I don't feel like getting too wet today.
The batts should be load tested separately.
It always helps to keep the batt conections clean.
I would be glad to help you out if it were not for the weather.
The DPS closes the Beeline at the drop of a hat.
Keep us posted.
Not raining here yet but it's getting cold enough to snow if that rain gets up this way.
I hadn't thought of the battery cable between them, but I checked voltage and both had exactly 12.45volts yesterday.
I cleaned off all the terminals and replaced one that was questionable. I still need to replace one more but I didn't have one at the house so I got it goodntight and can't budge it.
I have been starting and driving the truck periodically today, but only because I plugged it in last night.
I'm planning on leaving it unplugged tonight so I can troubleshoot more tomorrow. I am hoping that maybe just maybe it was the terminals. I found one loose (hand tight) one broken but making contact and all of them needed to be cleaned badly.
I have noticed that it started easier after cleaning everything. Maybe I'll get lucky....but alas I don't have that kind of luck. I'll update more in the morning.
I hadn't thought of the battery cable between them, but I checked voltage and both had exactly 12.45volts yesterday.
I cleaned off all the terminals and replaced one that was questionable. I still need to replace one more but I didn't have one at the house so I got it goodntight and can't budge it.
I have been starting and driving the truck periodically today, but only because I plugged it in last night.
I'm planning on leaving it unplugged tonight so I can troubleshoot more tomorrow. I am hoping that maybe just maybe it was the terminals. I found one loose (hand tight) one broken but making contact and all of them needed to be cleaned badly.
I have noticed that it started easier after cleaning everything. Maybe I'll get lucky....but alas I don't have that kind of luck. I'll update more in the morning.
That can make a HUGE difference on starting and charging.
Well...i wasn't being a dink or nothing...if your batteries are turning over, and there's white smoke rolling out the tailpipe...your problem is not battery related, nor is it voltage issues...a battery is a battery, is a battery...if there's juice to spin our engines without the "ruh....ruh....ruh" normally associated with a dead battery sound, and your voltage isn't bouncing all over the place....my .02, you're barking up the wrong tree and the fox is getting away....if i can make a suggestion, go buy a new GPR and try it...worst case, you then have a spare...best case, like mine...your rig is fixed and running great....otherwise, you're about to run all over and spend a bunch of loot you don't need to...granted, those PM items needed to be addressed, but, they ain't your issue....have fun...
I don't see how the GPR can be the issue. I get almost the complete voltage through the relay when it opens up. I tried jumping past the relay and didn't help either so I'm going another direction. I don't like to throw parts at anything unless I can figure it should be replaced as part of normal maintenance.
I value your thought process, I'm also just explaining mine.
Thanks for the input!
Wish you were closer.. but I still feel it has something to do with the GP's..And I am not doubting what you did, i am just thinking we are missing something.
I'm not saying I'm not missing something either. I'm just new to diesels and trying to go by the test results I'm getting.
The longer I work on this the more frustrated I get that everything I've checked seems okay but yet it doesn't start.
This morning I went out after having cleaned battery terminals and replacing one yesterd. It cranks much faster and acted like it was going to start but it didn't. I only tried two times, but I really don't want to replace my starter.
I'm not the kind that throws parts at something until I get completely frustrated, I'm almost there though.
I know the GP's were replaced 2 years ago 60K miles. Does this sound due for replacement?
I'm guessing that you are not building up enough HPOP pressure to fire the injectors. Could be ipr/injector o rings/ leak/icp sensor. Here is a good guide to the hpop system:http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/public...3HPOPGuide.pdf
Maybe somebody in your area has AE or similar and can help you out..
I've posted up in the AZ chapter but not getting much help or replies. A few that if they lived closer but no one close by.
I read the pdf, but I don't have much in the way of special tools for the diesel so I'm up a creek on many of those tests.
I think buzz test is in order but like you said I need someone with and AE.
Still haven't heard if anyone knows the wiring.
Does the wiring harness from the GPR to the VC harness have anything like a relay/solonoid inline?
At the temps you're talking about it should still start w/out GP's. I would connect a good set of jumper cables to another vehicle and see if it starts cold just to rule out your batteries for good even though they load tested okay.
At the temps you're talking about it should still start w/out GP's. I would connect a good set of jumper cables to another vehicle and see if it starts cold just to rule out your batteries for good even though they load tested okay.
X2 The same advice I gave him in post 17. I hope he will try it.
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