Reviving this thread as it has Denso in the post title (for searches). Is anyone making any changes to the starter cable from the battery to the starter when installing these? This type of starter is rated for 4kW, which at 12V is 333amps. I'm installing one and am thinking of adding a separate battery cable from the other battery. I believe the OE stock starter is 2.5kW and 208 amps. These current draws are maximum of course, and it probably doesn't draw this continuously, and maybe not even during the initial contact. Thoughts?

 

I’ve put the Denso (DB is disposable/POS/garbage/waste of time and money) in dozens of trucks with no wiring upgrades. The Denso in my dually probably has over 250k miles on it now.

 

My denso has been going strong for a good while now with no battery cable to starter upgrades.

My db has been going strong in my plow truck for 5 years of severe use as well, a year and a half ago it quit, but I smacked it hard with a hammer and it's been fine ever since

 

I upgraded the wiring to all 00 when I installed the Denso. Strongest fastest crank ever. In my opinion the stock wiring is junk. A 2ga crossover wire? Seriously?? Obviously it will get the truck started but I just can't look at that stuff and be happy.

 

No wiring upgrades on my DB "Denso style" starters, but I will no longer use a Denso-style anything, regardless of source. The "style" starters are not true units and I never got more than 18 months out of one.

 

Just looked, my db knockoff has been going strong for 7 years not 5 lol

 

After two DB starters in a row that both failed and cost me plenty of time and money chasing everything else because I couldn't believe 2 new DB starters in a row could be bad and it had to be something else I finally replaced mine with a genuine Ford rebuilt. That was quite a few years ago and still going strong. The rebuild shop also took the DB apart and showed me the cheap construction and the faulty soldering that caused it to be intermittent. From now on it's OEM on that kind of stuff, take it to your local starter/alternator shop and have it rebuilt, then you'll know exactly what you have.

 

I really like my genuine Denso I purchased from CNC Fab about 5 years ago, but if I were in the market for a new starter today I would go the 6.7L route.

Starter

• 6.7 Starter Modification
• 6.7 Starter Installation in 7.3

As for the wiring to the starter, no upgrades have been performed to that leg of the circuit.

 

I was gonna say...the real Denso is great (I like mine), but there are cheaper ways around this one nowadays. Good 6.7 starters are $100-120 on Fleabay.

 

cheap is usually time consuming, and gets zero warranty, so its usually not cheap in the long run.
I feel much better about my real Denso unit then any other starter available.

I feel like a miracle man with my 7year working db

 

I went through (3) DB knockoffs and quit before I REALLY lost my temper. One only started the truck a dozen times. Garbage. They likely buy them from Alibaba and make +100% margins even after swapping a few out.

At 180k miles I had to replace the contacts in my Denso. ~$30 and >30min. I’m sure I have that many more miles on it now and no signs it’s slowing down. Eventually it will need contacts again or maybe bearings and if I live long enough, I may have to replace the motor - but it’s DIY repairs forever.

The real Denso is the last starter you’ll need to buy. (Not the napa or other autoparts version - a true Denso)

 

Yes. The OEM Mitsubishi starter is a gear reduction type...for more torque multiplication.


The Mitsubishi gear reduction assembly is inline with the electric motor, which makes it slimmer, as all the turning parts are in one tube, where the only off axis appurtenance is the solenoid.

The Denso gear reduction assembly is offset from the electric motor, which makes it seem much fatter, because it is, as there are turning parts that are operating on two separate axes, one offset from the other. The offset gearing is more visible on the starter, sort of like a transfer case is more visible on a drivetrain than an inline transmission.

But lack of visual prominence of the Mitsubishi's gear reduction system due to being inline does not mean it isn't a gear reduction starter, with all the benefits of torque multiplication that come with that.

While the Denso is impressively large in overall girth, the even bigger and better beauty of the Denso is not visible, and has no bearing on its size, nor on its gear reduction. Rather, it is in the windings of the stator and phases of the rotor where the Denso delivers the goods. At the turn of this century, Denso introduced the most efficient and power dense small rotary electric alternators and starters in the industry (at that time), and Ford jumped on board with it in the early aughts.

Prior to this, the mighty Mitsubishi held top rank, in both the starters Ford used for the 7.3L diesel, as well as for the Ambulance Package alternators used in the OBS 7.3L.

Currently going on 22 years with my original production OEM Mitsubishi starter, starter solenoid, fender solenoid, and oem battery to starter cable. Like SSJ mentioned, all that Alibaba stuff that USA based "boutique" vendors import by the container load, mark up multi-fold, and tout on their websites with patriotic slogans urging enthusiasts to support local USA business... seems somewhat DuBious.

 

Thanks for all the feedback. Switching from the 3 bolt OE style I followed advice from Sous and bought new M10-1.5x45mm 8.8 bolts with flat and split washers. The bolts that were in there did not protrude through the transmission case with the OE starter, and this one definitely has a thicker mounting base. I didn't do anything with the battery cables beyond cleaning all of the connections. The engine starts much quicker now as it spins faster, and just watching the dash voltmeter, it appears that my battery voltage doesn't drop nearly as much as it used to with the old one. Thanks guys.