last I heard you was springless hahaha. And I'll be bring some budlight (tequila makes me do bad chit haha) and I cook some mean steak tips so I'll bring them. As for the other things..... well I've seen MacGyver and all but you have gotta have some redicoulus skills to get somethin outta that hahahaha, and you can get the tail cuz that would stink up my truck lol. And PSN has a great emoticon of what would happen after you blew past me, cuz we know it wouldn't be at the track that this was happening, cuz lord knows I wouldn't be street racin in a state that I can't get outta it haha. I think it has a rear view mirror and some lights of some kind in it... lol.

 

Yea, So I ran a skunk over with the f150 the other night. Head to tail. Poor ****er.
Poor truck too, but its got a theft deturant now. haha.

 

hahaha no I think that i would clasify that as a driver deturant lol.

 

He does need to stay home more. haha.

 

I think that we nee to divise a plan to get Sam to run one of them suckers over so he can finally spend some time his family.... I swear I was talking about both of them lol.

 

this is the problem with that statement. there are some things happenin' that i'm not totally lettin' loose. something about getting more timing than is possible with a stock head and more valve action than is possible at the current time as well with some certain stock components.... i will leave it at that..

on another note, my PSD started giving me fits today while i was trying to get some more info for Glenn. i turned it up to extreme tune on my way home from work and once i got to a point where there were NO cars anywhere around me i dropped it down to 45mph in 5th gear which is about 1100rpm and just punched it to get ICP, pulsewidth, and IPR DC%. it started pulling, pulling, pulling then all of a sudden the boost came across 10lbs of boost(this is about where it would spool and haul a$$) and then the next thing i know the CEL came on, ICP dropped from 2600psi down to 2000psi, IPR DC% came up from 40% to 53% and the truck spooled slowly up to 22lbs of boost and just smoked and smoked and smoked. this thing was smoking a **** ton! i couldn't see anything at all through the smoke. i mean that's the most smoke this truck has ever produced before by a long shot. eased it back home. at idle the ICP was HIGHER than normal. it was 1000psi at idle(normal is about 650psi), IPR DC was normal, idle was a smudge higher and kind of irradic. unplugged the ICP and nothing changed. plugged it back in and nothing changed. unplugged again and drove it and it ran the same as it was. got back home, plugged in the ICP, turned the truck off, then back on and all was perfectly normal again. no CEL, no abnormal ICP pressures, boost is snappy again, IPR DC % maxes at around 42% again, and boost is back up to normal. i have no clue what it was all about, but i think the ICP is playing games with me. i just put that ICP sensor in the truck a couple months ago too brand new from Ford with a new pigtail to go with it.

 

ya well... well.... well.. well idk but as long as I don't blow nothin up in the mean time you can consider it BROUGHT! And imma get me some fancy one off cool kid parts that do impossible things to so YA. lol. As for the truck actin funny it sounds to me that it is just scared of this 4 wheels of red fury hahaha. But no that is very strange, can you pull codes with that scan gauge of yours? If not you should get a scanner on it and see if it threw a code to memory when it was screwin up.

 

it tossed 3 codes. one for the EBPV(unplugged), one for the intake air temp, and then i got this-- P1280 ICP Circuit Out of Range Low. not sure what the heck happened, but now it's working fine. i will have to check for broken wires, loose connections, and possibly change the sensor again i guess.

Oh and my truck ain't scared. nothing that i'm doing is impossible. you can buy these parts and get stock parts machined just like me. LoL. fact is that if you deck a cylinder head what do you do to the nozzle of the injector in relation to the piston? put it closer. now run some numbers and see how far you can go safely(i'm going farther than .015"). now look at the stock piston to valve clearances. some STOCK trucks have piston to valve contact. so now you need to go ahead and do flycut pistons, but how far? start looking at cam profiles and what you wanna do with the truck(i know how far i'm taking my valve reliefs). i think i have a good plan for my engine, but i seriously doubt i can have it done before it comes time to line up. i could build the engine, but don't think i could get the fuel, air, and other substances to it by then. guess we will see, but my heads are almost COMPLETE!!! just decided on a couple last minute changes... give me a minute to upload some pics for you.. haha. just to get you in the mood to get more mods rolling...

 

See I don't know enough about building a motor that I would be able to able to safely moddify my motor like that, I wish to hel* that I did but I would be lieing if I said so. I will be learning as I go pretty good once I get this project off the ground and get the motor pulled out of it, because I could give two chits what it looks like as long as it runs in the 12's (anywhere in the 12's is fine with me lol).

 

You can blame this one on me Travis! PS, I posted in the 'other' thread one minute behind you.

 

eghh. i learned a little just like everyone else. i still have LOTS of learning to do, but if you need help let me know and i will do my best to answer. here are some pics for ya.

 

can't blame you man. it woulda happened either way whether i was trying to get that info for u or just driving my truck like normal. i give that truck some major hell on a daily basis so it's not a miracle that something went crazy. will have to try to duplicate it sometime later this week and try to find the problem.

 

I always wanted to see the DI rods up close cuz that's who I was planning on getting mine from, thanks. Are those ARP's and 910's or something else? And are those stock vavles or high temp ones and if so did you can a vavle job done to the heads aswell? See I get all this kinda of stuff, like the physical engine parts and stuff like that but once you start getting into tolerances and how much you can deck it and then how much you have to shave the pistons and cut them and so forth I get lost pretty quickly. On my little project I would love to lower the compression and bore it .030 over and run a little cam on it but I don't really know how to get to that point and make it safe to run, or even if that would be a good idea. But I guess I can cross that bridge when the motor comes out.

 

those are H-11's and yes those are the 910's. going to use Hypermax or Hamilton springs for the added pressure. the 910's only have about 10lbs more seat pressure than stock. the valves are ALL exhaust valves from 2 different sets of heads. the factory exhaust valves are harder steel than the intakes. wish i had a pic to show you of the 2 after 250k miles, but the intake valves show TONS of wear after only 250k miles and the exhaust valves show very little to no wear at all. both the intake and exhaust valves are the same size valve so i was able to use exhaust valves in both the intake and exhaust ports. i used WOP hardened valve seats. doing this i only ordered seats for exhaust valves, no intakes as they are different seats i believe. i did get a performance valve job done with a 3 angle grind on the seats and valves. as far as the tolerances go .015" can be considered a lot to take off the heads, but it's not really too bad.. just gotta make sure the piston to valve clearances are good upon assymbly and since i'm going to use valve reliefs anyways i don't care. when you get pistons you want to specify how much you decked the heads and block if you deck the block at all b/c taking material off the heads will raise compression and so will decking the block all because that brings the piston closer to the head. so specify when you get pistons done and they will get you what you need. i'm putting valve reliefs in the pistons .050" so i can run a larger cam. the factory piston to valve clearance is too tight to make use of a good aftermarket cam and a cam won't push the valves out enough to hit with those reliefs unless you find something really crazy to put in your truck. so if you wanna lower compression specify the exact compression you want(usually 16.5:1 is good for street trucks, but 16:1 can be done and still get it started everyday). you just don't want to lower compression too much. lowering compression needs to be carefully considered with how much boost you will be running. there is an equation that shows what will be needed that i will try to find. Boring .030" over won't hurt anything, but you want to bore as little as possible. Remember taking material out of the block doesn't help with strength and on a diesel won't help power much either. i'm probably going to sleeve mine back to factory specs so that IF i melt a piston or something that damages the cylinder wall then the sleeve can be replaced instead of the block and i keep strength between the cylinders and the cam. these blocks like to crack between the cylinders and cam, btw. that's where Roy's cracked and it seems thats where mostly all of the crack. So with strength in mind Cryo your block if you can. $450 at 300 below IIRC and they say 50% stronger.

 

ya, I would cryo the block for sure because the motor will be outta the truck for plenty of time to have it done. And this planning isn't for my DD it is for my little project that I'm planning up. So it doesn't have to be streetable in the least bit, I would like to be able to rip it on the street from time to time but it is in no way necessary lol. And I will have two spinners as soon as I get it running on one and figure out how to build the second, so I'm hoping to be in the 70-90 range but that could be optimistic idk. As of right now this is what my parts list is looking like, cryo'd forged rods, carson girdle/studs, mahle coated pistons, coated bearings, lowered comp ratio, high temp exhaust valves, DI push rods, vavle springs (but idk what kind yet), headers, bellowed uppies, and a 42R to start with and then something smaller will replace it and the 42 will become the large one maybe (47R???), then obviously an I/C and electric fuel and deffinetly SPRAY.... I've always wanted it haha. But I want to find out the things like how low of compression, and what kind of clearances are needed for the heads and things like that. But I will probably talk to DI when that time comes, I really like the great things that I have heard about them. Oh and I think my injectors are gonna have to be a little bigger now but IDK, it's only money right hahaha