BOOM!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
I really don't know... But I am now on the fence as to what rods to put in the new motor. I really am scared to have to go through this again. I am looking for a GOOD price on some GOOD rods, so that no matter what I do down the road, I don't end up doing this again.... Suggestions?
If mine goes, I will do a full build. Crower rods, girdle, etc... all the good stuff.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Victoria BC, Canada
Thats sorta the thoughts I am having... Do you know of any place to pickup a set of rods for a "Slightly" more reasonable price? 2600 is a LOT of money to spend on rods... Any other options out there?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,174
Likes: 1
From: Millersburg, OR
You could go through all that effort, and still crack a block... that what happened to my buddy... full build and ended up with a cracked block... and it was even magnafluxed...
John, you just gotta figure out what you want. If you are happy where you are at. Just stick a set of forged rods in there, headstuds and valveprings... and run it....
If you want more... 500 range then it is going to snowball... If you are going to put a girdle, rods, then you might as well get the heads machined for a bigger set of valve springs, and there is a lot more you can do...
I think R&R rods are the cheapest... they are a little cheaper then the ones you mentioned above...
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
You bring up a good point. You could go through a full build and crack a block soon after. That's why I am still on the fence as to what I am going to do. I love the 7.3 but I hear too many cracked block stories.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Victoria BC, Canada
I go Moose hunting every year, and I think the cost of getting towed back from WAY UP NORTH, would be well over $2600 if I blew a motor there. So, it would be smart to just bite the bullet and put the rods in now...
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,174
Likes: 1
From: Millersburg, OR
90% of the time when the engine goes, you are not on the dyno or at the drag strip. It is when you are cruising 55 mph down the highway.
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Victoria BC, Canada
I figure, if I put good rods, I can rely on it for years to come, and put more power at it if I so choose, and not have to be in fear of throwing a rod.
An interesting comment from a company claiming 600plus HP out of stock forged rods with peaning and cryo:
> John
>
>If you are looking for something a little better than stock forged rods I
>would suggest forged rods that have been cryo.tempered and heat treated.
>They are about 25% stronger than stock forged rods. We have them in motors
>that are 600 + hp. and they do well. I still would not use them if you are
>considering using nitrous or really going extreme. The next step up would
>be billet rods. We are in the process of designing our own billet rods .Not
>sure where we will be at on price yet. The cryoed rods are 600.00 a set
>ready to go in your motor.
Carson Stauffer
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,174
Likes: 1
From: Millersburg, OR
Only problem with that point is that I don't want to blow it up here @ home either... one more exploding engine = cost of good rods the first time plus more.
I figure, if I put good rods, I can rely on it for years to come, and put more power at it if I so choose, and not have to be in fear of throwing a rod.
An interesting comment from a company claiming 600plus HP out of stock forged rods with peaning and cryo:
> John
>
>If you are looking for something a little better than stock forged rods I
>would suggest forged rods that have been cryo.tempered and heat treated.
>They are about 25% stronger than stock forged rods. We have them in motors
>that are 600 + hp. and they do well. I still would not use them if you are
>considering using nitrous or really going extreme. The next step up would
>be billet rods. We are in the process of designing our own billet rods .Not
>sure where we will be at on price yet. The cryoed rods are 600.00 a set
>ready to go in your motor.
Carson Stauffer
I figure, if I put good rods, I can rely on it for years to come, and put more power at it if I so choose, and not have to be in fear of throwing a rod.
An interesting comment from a company claiming 600plus HP out of stock forged rods with peaning and cryo:
> John
>
>If you are looking for something a little better than stock forged rods I
>would suggest forged rods that have been cryo.tempered and heat treated.
>They are about 25% stronger than stock forged rods. We have them in motors
>that are 600 + hp. and they do well. I still would not use them if you are
>considering using nitrous or really going extreme. The next step up would
>be billet rods. We are in the process of designing our own billet rods .Not
>sure where we will be at on price yet. The cryoed rods are 600.00 a set
>ready to go in your motor.
Carson Stauffer
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Victoria BC, Canada
Not a bad way to go either... But you still have stock rods and I have seen plenty of trucks running between the 4-500 level for a long time on stock rods with nothing done to them, and just headstuds and valve springs. I know there are several others a lot higher then 500 that are still going... but at that level it could be anytime..
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Only problem with that point is that I don't want to blow it up here @ home either... one more exploding engine = cost of good rods the first time plus more.
I figure, if I put good rods, I can rely on it for years to come, and put more power at it if I so choose, and not have to be in fear of throwing a rod.
An interesting comment from a company claiming 600plus HP out of stock forged rods with peaning and cryo:
> John
>
>If you are looking for something a little better than stock forged rods I
>would suggest forged rods that have been cryo.tempered and heat treated.
>They are about 25% stronger than stock forged rods. We have them in motors
>that are 600 + hp. and they do well. I still would not use them if you are
>considering using nitrous or really going extreme. The next step up would
>be billet rods. We are in the process of designing our own billet rods .Not
>sure where we will be at on price yet. The cryoed rods are 600.00 a set
>ready to go in your motor.
Carson Stauffer
I figure, if I put good rods, I can rely on it for years to come, and put more power at it if I so choose, and not have to be in fear of throwing a rod.
An interesting comment from a company claiming 600plus HP out of stock forged rods with peaning and cryo:
> John
>
>If you are looking for something a little better than stock forged rods I
>would suggest forged rods that have been cryo.tempered and heat treated.
>They are about 25% stronger than stock forged rods. We have them in motors
>that are 600 + hp. and they do well. I still would not use them if you are
>considering using nitrous or really going extreme. The next step up would
>be billet rods. We are in the process of designing our own billet rods .Not
>sure where we will be at on price yet. The cryoed rods are 600.00 a set
>ready to go in your motor.
Carson Stauffer
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Victoria BC, Canada
I think this is my chance to get some real rods and just get it done... Knowing myself, I will find a reason to do more down the road, and I'd hate to be limited by rods...