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Yep -- it separates there. You can get it off with normal tools, but there is a special tool you can borrow from most parts stores.
You should've been well over 400, unless you had them tuned down. Tenn is running 200cc sticks with a 38r and had them tuned down to 400. You should've been between 450 & 500, I would think.
Maybe thats why your clutch was slipping. 235 injectors, 38r and Jody's tunes = 450-500hp. I will be glad when some one on this site and with this set up gets on a Dyno and can post the actual numbers
Yep -- it separates there. You can get it off with normal tools, but there is a special tool you can borrow from most parts stores.
You should've been well over 400, unless you had them tuned down. Tenn is running 200cc sticks with a 38r and had them tuned down to 400. You should've been between 450 & 500, I would think.
Not sure if tuned down is the proper term. I had them live tuned in a conservative manner Joe. I wanted to keep the block and rods together. There is so much involved what with nozzle size and total volume, pulse width, ICP etc. So any given combination will yield who knows what HP. Got big oil? Better atomization to a point where the big nozzles just squirt crap in there.
There is a way to figure the HP mathematically for total flow. Too bad it does not take into account the quality of that flow which goes to the HP potential.
What is my point? Not sure except it seems to me that bigger injectors can grenade a block. It also seems that if those injectors are sloppy they can do it quicker.
So my guess, safe #s for 235s without big oil is about 450hp max, and I am not comfortable with that. As those #s climb, so do failure rates. Just think about what you are throwing in your engines folks.
I may catch some crap here. Bottom line is with any hybrid you can window your block even with forged rods. You can also drive around happily. Do your homework.
I know where you're coming from. But I'm sure you could get more out of them, if you wanted to. Running hybrids, we're losing some multiplication in the injectors, so the ICP needs to be as high as possible. But by the same token, they use less oil, so in my case, I gained over 1000 psi over stock. Multiplied out, it's about even, or at 2800-3000psi, I gained some fuel pressure at WOT (1800x7=12,600, 2800x5=14000). I KNOW my truck is running a lot better, and the mileage speaks volumes. I'm very curious what the dyno will show. Might have to get on one before it grenades, eh?
Not to be an azz, but there are PMR engines running well over 400. And there are forged engines that gave up barely over 400. I feel comfortable where I'm at based on my combination. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.
Not to be an azz, but there are PMR engines running well over 400. And there are forged engines that gave up barely over 400. I feel comfortable where I'm at based on my combination. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.
There you go. My strategy to keep mine alive seems to be working. It's called a hot engine.
I do know this to Joe. As I said WE need to think about it I have forged rods but would like springs studs girdle etc. But hey my truck is a farm truck so it want be going much further with performance mods.
I do know this to Joe. As I said WE need to think about it I have forged rods but would like springs studs girdle etc. But hey my truck is a farm truck so it want be going much further with performance mods.
You would be wise to keep it that way
Did I mention that I was done a long time ago? I think so. Fun to drive and I want to keep it that way. If my block fails it will get a CTD.
Not to be an azz, but there are PMR engines running well over 400. And there are forged engines that gave up barely over 400. I feel comfortable where I'm at based on my combination. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.
All I can say is that whoever is running a similar combination as myself (and likes to play with it once and a while), is lucky because I only got about 600-800KMS out of my upgrades... When it let go, I had just started to get into it. Turbo was spooling up nice, probably only making about 30psi, 3rd or 4th gear, 2000-2300 RPM...
Just waiting for it to really start to pull. And WHAM!
I am equally as scared with forged rods and to tell you the TRUTH, I am on the fence about going out and spending the CASH on a set of REAL rods... I think I will try this motor, and if it blows in the first year (and I don't tell them that I had Hybrids and a GT38 turbo) I will get it replaced. THEN I will definately run out and buy a set of REAL rods.
My next fear is that I am running around 45psi of boost, so with this motor being .030 over bore, is there a higher chance of cracking a cyl?
I am running stock HPOP however, so I am assuming that it limits how much fuel the injectors can throw in?
All I can say is that whoever is running a similar combination as myself (and likes to play with it once and a while), is lucky because I only got about 600-800KMS out of my upgrades... When it let go, I had just started to get into it. Turbo was spooling up nice, probably only making about 30psi, 3rd or 4th gear, 2000-2300 RPM...
Just waiting for it to really start to pull. And WHAM!
I am equally as scared with forged rods and to tell you the TRUTH, I am on the fence about going out and spending the CASH on a set of REAL rods... I think I will try this motor, and if it blows in the first year (and I don't tell them that I had Hybrids and a GT38 turbo) I will get it replaced. THEN I will definately run out and buy a set of REAL rods.
My next fear is that I am running around 45psi of boost, so with this motor being .030 over bore, is there a higher chance of cracking a cyl?
I am running stock HPOP however, so I am assuming that it limits how much fuel the injectors can throw in?
What tune were you in, and was the engine hot when it went? As in oil temps at least 150, preferably 170? You're running a lot more boost than I am -- my van turbo is maxing out around 35. Isn't the 38r supposed to top out at 40? And can you watch your ICP & DC? That will tell you a lot about what's going on in the HPOP.
What tune were you in, and was the engine hot when it went? As in oil temps at least 150, preferably 170? You're running a lot more boost than I am -- my van turbo is maxing out around 35. Isn't the 38r supposed to top out at 40? And can you watch your ICP & DC? That will tell you a lot about what's going on in the HPOP.
I was definately up to temp, but as far as the ICP & DC, no visibility into that while I am running and whats DC?. Might be worth picking up some more guages I guess eh? (Can you recommend some?)
I don't know about what the 38R is supposed to do, but I can tell you it burry's the needle well past the 40psi (max on the guage).
I don't think that any of this would have saved my motor, I was in my 140hp tune at the time, which after talking to Jody is quite light on the fuel side of things (All my tunes are, as I was having major smoke problems in 80e, so we had to lighten up on the fuel). We spent some time getting my 80e cleaned up, and once we figured that out, he re-wrote all my other tunes based on my 80e as a benchmark.
I had just recieved the tunes from Jody earlier that week, and was trying them out... All I can think of is that I must have hurt it previously and it let go this day. I have beat it up much harder before, and not had any problems.
Thanks for the pics fordzilla - that is very painful to see. Anybody have a theory as to why 2 rods on the same throw let go? Maybe the first crashed into the other one? How much for a set of performance rods? Sounds like a good investment especially since you are getting your long block at a good price.