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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 08:10 PM
  #31  
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Thanks for the encouragement Joe. Fordzilla, if you don't mind, can you give us some details as in were you at WOT, racing, pulling, or what? What kind of rpm's were you at?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 08:55 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by stroken

Thats not good to hear, me and myers pulled our last one out in 3.5
You guys have done this a few times though. You ought to have it down.

As mentioned, leave the fenders alone and start at the grill. Pull everything in your way off until you have the engine ready to go.

Sorry to hear about your engine zilla.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 10:31 PM
  #33  
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I had just started to accelerate. I think I might have just shifted to 3rd or 4th and started to stand on it. Might have been around 2000rpm, just beginning to make some power. I have had a start problem since I put the injectors in though.
Every time my truck had been sitting for more than 5hours, I would start it and it would smoke white smoke and run rough for about the first 60seconds (unless I brought the RPM up to around 1500 and held it there for 20seconds)
Couldn't seem to make it not do this, didn't matter what tune, or what the temp was outside.
As our weather cooled off outside, on really cold mornings it seemed to be a little bit harder to start than usual.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 11:19 PM
  #34  
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Who started this % nozzle measurment? its damned annoying! Can somebody give me a good reason why we use this instead of an actual measurements like. . . .010" which is what I have. If its a good reason, I'll adapt but I just can't think of one.
Timmy
Oh. . sorry for the rant. . . and really sorry for your motor. Hopefully. . . 2nd times a charm.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 11:23 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Hiflyer746
Who started this % nozzle measurment? its damned annoying! Can somebody give me a good reason why we use this instead of an actual measurements like. . . .010" which is what I have. If its a good reason, I'll adapt but I just can't think of one.
Timmy
Oh. . sorry for the rant. . . and really sorry for your motor. Hopefully. . . 2nd times a charm.
Couldn't agree more... I had to get information for Jody when he set up my tunes. I called full-force and he said they were 7mm or 7.5mm I think.. So, I guess that would be a good comparison...
A theory would be if they are rated for 235cc then 100% would give you full flow. 50% would give you 117.5?

Is that what they mean?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 11:26 PM
  #36  
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From: Damon (South East Texas)
the % number refers to the amount bigger than the stock size orifice.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 12:06 AM
  #37  
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off topic but i was reading in your sig that you have a south bend clutch is that the one you have in now or swapping in? if your swapping it in just a heads up they are noisy at idle. I put mine in at the same time as a trans rebuild and thought it was the trans sense it says it no where on there web site that they make noise, they do send out a little paper that states that it will do this but mine fell under the tool box. So i took it back to the trans shop! It turned out to be a big waste of time for everyone. Sorry to hear about your motor! But it should be a good chance to build it up how you want.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 12:26 AM
  #38  
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yeah the first number. . . 175, 235, 250 i believe is the amount of CC's the injector will displace. the second number. . . this silly % is the % of size of the nozzle holes over stock. But i think its silly. I would actually like to know the sizes in a measurement than make a crazy conversion. I do believe they are measured in MM stock. . . and if I remember correctly. . . it is something like .7mm isn't it? i could be way off. I like my standard measuring system. or maybe stock is .008"? Now I'm curious.
Timmy
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by rockcrawler_101
off topic but i was reading in your sig that you have a south bend clutch is that the one you have in now or swapping in? if your swapping it in just a heads up they are noisy at idle. I put mine in at the same time as a trans rebuild and thought it was the trans sense it says it no where on there web site that they make noise, they do send out a little paper that states that it will do this but mine fell under the tool box. So i took it back to the trans shop! It turned out to be a big waste of time for everyone. Sorry to hear about your motor! But it should be a good chance to build it up how you want.
Yes I do have that clutch in there now, but it wouldn't hold in this combination of parts, so South Bend is sending me the 650HP Dual clutch for a few extra $$$. They do make noise, and when I first put it in, I was just about to take it back out to check to see if something was wrong. Everything ended up ok, and it just made a rattle/grind noise at an idle with clutch released.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 12:23 PM
  #40  
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I need to get me some hybrids and a turbo....
I want the kind of power that requires a dual disc clutck....only I have an auto, HMMMM.
Im thinking compound turbos, using the stock one and maybe an hx55 or ht60, or something easy to get like it. It would be an interesting project, but I doubt I could afford the transmission to handle it.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by UNTAMND
I need to get me some hybrids and a turbo....
I want the kind of power that requires a dual disc clutck....only I have an auto, HMMMM.
Im thinking compound turbos, using the stock one and maybe an hx55 or ht60, or something easy to get like it. It would be an interesting project, but I doubt I could afford the transmission to handle it.
Heh, I'd like to be able to just afford the parts, to fix the dings in my paint and do a couple $100 mods so I feel your pain!

But yea, maybe someday I can get some nice injectors (nothing to fancy) and a new turbo w/intercooler but I don't want to get so crazy that I break a push rod either, that would suck, I'd rather get the steel push rods first and if I'm going to go that far then I'm going to mod the heck out of the motor and see if I can find a nice balance at 35mpg on he hwy with 400+HP and 600+ft lbs of tq. I'm not asking for much

Oh, and to be able to push a button and go from 30mpg to 10mpg but break the tires loose on the hwy w/dry pavement, that would be cool too, but only if I need it for those idiot drivers out there
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 10:51 PM
  #42  
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Update... Just looked at the passenger side... Looks like I might possibly have thrown 2 rods... So far, there doesn't appear to be any block dammage (from the outside). The pan on the drivers side by Rod 7 & 8 has a big hole in it, and the pan on the passenger side beside rod 3&4 has a big hole in it.
Hope to pull the pig this weekend and have a better idea of what happened inside.
Will update as I go on. Definately going to take a TONNE of pics.
A best case scenario would be that I could re-use my block and just use the rods / crank out of one of the other motors.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 12:32 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by fordzilla01
Update... Just looked at the passenger side... Looks like I might possibly have thrown 2 rods... So far, there doesn't appear to be any block dammage (from the outside). The pan on the drivers side by Rod 7 & 8 has a big hole in it, and the pan on the passenger side beside rod 3&4 has a big hole in it.
Hope to pull the pig this weekend and have a better idea of what happened inside.
Will update as I go on. Definately going to take a TONNE of pics.
A best case scenario would be that I could re-use my block and just use the rods / crank out of one of the other motors.
Even if your block appears to have no damage. . . which I highly doubt will be the case. . . you need to have to thoroughly checked at an engine shop for cracks. In my opinion. . . I'd just get another block as long as you are getting rods, crank and cam. But again, I'm pretty sure you're going to see some serioius damage when you get it pulled apart. Not to be a negative nancy or anything!
Timmy
 
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 10:21 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Hiflyer746
Even if your block appears to have no damage. . . which I highly doubt will be the case. . . you need to have to thoroughly checked at an engine shop for cracks. In my opinion. . . I'd just get another block as long as you are getting rods, crank and cam. But again, I'm pretty sure you're going to see some serioius damage when you get it pulled apart. Not to be a negative nancy or anything!
Timmy
Oh, I am completely aware of the potential dammage. I have blown many other gas engines before...
The only way to tell will be to crack it open and see, and from there a Magnaflux. I think it will be obvious at first if there was any impact to parts of the inside of the block.
Expect the worst and hope for the best.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 08:01 PM
  #45  
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If you have rod holes in the pan, do yourself a favor and take that block to the metal recycling center. Don't waste the money on that block. It's finished.

I only have 200cc hybrids and I am very careful with it on my PMRs. Almost 2 years now. Of course today, once fully warmed up I did blow a bit of smoke. OK, maybe more than a bit. Kept folks behind me on a 3 lane road way behind me because they could not see, and they probably didn't want any of the truck either.

For those wondering, I was simply making a few lane changes and may have had the tune set a bit high for what I needed to do. No speeding of course.
 
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