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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 09:41 PM
  #121  
FordNFishinLover's Avatar
FordNFishinLover
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From: Illernois
Hmmmm, i have one but its for like a flywheel size?? So not sure it will work on it. Also you should know that the bearing isnt much better than my thumbs fingernail.
 
Old Oct 6, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #122  
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From: Colorado
I would just leave the second bearing , it's sealed and really doesn't need to be screwed with.
 
Old Oct 6, 2009 | 10:16 PM
  #123  
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From: Illernois
Wanted to soak both bearings ( the one on bottom is super rough from crud and metal shavings) in some acetone to clean em good and reoil em.

Figured id just get everything in tip top shape. The grease on the gears is old and dirty some im gunna clean it all out. But i wonder if the grease i use on my truck wont hurt it if i use it?
 
Old Oct 6, 2009 | 10:48 PM
  #124  
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From: Mexia, TX
Originally Posted by FordNFishinLover
!~Help~! me!!!

Im in the middle of redoing my angle grinder. Shes been real good too me, (i've used the crap outta the thing), and figured id clean her all up and clean and grease the bearings, and regrease the gears.

So i got it all apart, and on the shaft there are the two bears that i want to take off and soak and reoil, but i have no idea how to get them off. The only thing ive tried is yanking them off and that doesnt work. So any input on how to take em off? Thanks yall, heres a few pictures incase they help to see what it is.



I know just what you need:

CLICK HERE

It's a rear motor bearing puller for small electric motors, namely, Kirby vacuum cleaners. What you do is back out the long threaded bolt enough for you to slide the puller's flat bottom plate underneath the bearing, and then you turn the bolt with a wrench til it pushes the shaft out of the bearing. It works kind of like a steering wheel puller. It makes removing bearings like this super easy. NOTE, you'll probably want to send the seller a message and tell him the diameter and thickness of the bearings you want to remove, so he can let you know for sure if this tool will work.

Once you remove the bearings, fill a pot with Windex (yes, Windex window cleaner), and let the entire armature soak in that for about 15 minutes, then take it out and let it air dry for a day or two. This will clean it and get rid of alot of mess, oxidation, etc. I thought it was crazy til I did it myself. It doesn't hurt a single thing.

When you go to put the bearing back on, get a small socket, as close to the size of the inner race of the bearing as possible, and use that socket to gently but firmly tap the bearing onto the shaft. Use a small brass hammer or something similar to tap with. And only tap on the inner race; if you tap on the outside one, it could damage the bearing. (Ask me how I know...)

And when you're done, get either a bunch of Q-tips, or a few cottonballs, and wipe down the commutator (the small copper-looking part) with rubbing alcohol. That will remove any oil from your hands that have gotten on it while you're reassembling everything.
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 01:34 PM
  #125  
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bill11012
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From: Texas
bumping it, looks like This has dried up....
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 01:47 PM
  #126  
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From: Mexia, TX
I guess I used too many words? :P
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 01:58 PM
  #127  
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bill11012
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From: Texas
haha, I think that was the longest post in the thread...
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:14 PM
  #128  
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bghnkinf250
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From: Bay Area, Unfortunately
Where did every body go?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:24 PM
  #129  
TheKirbyMan's Avatar
TheKirbyMan
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From: Mexia, TX
They're hiding...

lol check out the tags!
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 04:21 PM
  #130  
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bghnkinf250
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From: Bay Area, Unfortunately
None of them want to play!
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 04:56 PM
  #131  
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TheKirbyMan
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From: Mexia, TX
Phooey on them then, we're here, that's all that matters. lol

That carb that my uncle loaned me is making a HUGE difference in how my truck runs. It spat and sputtered for a few days when I'd start it and let it warm up, and it'd barely stay running in gear.....

Today:

- Fixed the throttle return spring. The little one on the kickdown lever didn't do the trick, so I have a nice strong spring with one end hooked to a bracket on the manifold behind the carb (I guess that's what the bracket's for) and the other to the bottom of the throttle lever. The way I put it on there the first time, it slid up the lever and gave me a 1500rpm surprise. lol. Second way I put it works perfectly.

- Warmed up the engine a bit and then sprayed some carb cleaner down the carb.

- Set the idle speed to about 800rpm. In gear it drops to about 500rpm.


Biggest improvement is that it will actually stay running (smoothly!!!!) in gear now. Been a long time since I could say that, lol.

Hopefully this week I can take it out for a spin and see what it'll do.
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 05:13 PM
  #132  
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greyghost85
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From: Lebanon
howcum ya cant take her for a spin now?
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 06:05 PM
  #133  
bghnkinf250's Avatar
bghnkinf250
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2009
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From: Bay Area, Unfortunately
Hopefully this week? You should be out driving it NOW!

Ohhhh, now you left too.
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 06:10 PM
  #134  
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greyghost85
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From: Lebanon
he is probably out driving it.
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 06:11 PM
  #135  
bghnkinf250's Avatar
bghnkinf250
Fleet Mechanic
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Posts: 1,460
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From: Bay Area, Unfortunately
I hope so!

I picked up a hydroboost set up from the junk yard the other day, and was HOPING to put it in tomorrow. Is any body interested in a write up?
 



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