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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 11:12 PM
  #166  
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Bout time. Every time I ask your dad if it's running yet he has a little chuckle.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 07:52 PM
  #167  
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Oh yeah...vroom,vroom
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 12:08 AM
  #168  
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Got the glass in... finally. I did it with help from a friend. The back window was a real tough job to do roping the window seal in. Now if I can only find the fault in my starter circuit. Just stopped turning... hmmm.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 12:09 AM
  #169  
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Easy fix hopefully. Your dad said someone showed up with an engine you were wanting to hide.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 12:33 AM
  #170  
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Yeah. Picked up a 300 inline 6 in trade for the use of my engine hoist. I finally came clean with my wife. She's come to terms with my addiction.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 12:35 AM
  #171  
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They normally do. Some take longer than others.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 07:22 PM
  #172  
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No Crank Start- HELP!

I can't find the problem in the starting circuit. The starter solenoid clicks when the key turns over. I get current to the starter. I turned the crank by hand on the engine no problem. The battery is new, and holds a charge at 12.8 volts. I tried voltage drop tests at my ground wires, and all of them give me the same 12.8 volt signal.

The starter is new. The starter switch (where the key goes) is new, and the solenoid is new. I replaced all of the heavy guage wires to the batteries and starter with newer, heavier guage wire. I know it wasn't necessary to replace them, but I was going to do it later anyway.

Here are two strange things... the instrument console lights come on when the key is not in the truck. AND the voltage regulator makes a funny kind of "doing" noise every time I put the negative battery cable on the negative battery post.

I bet this is something dumb that I have overlooked. Any suggestions for what to do next would be appreciated.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 07:29 PM
  #173  
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I'd take a screwdriver and jump on the firewall solenoid , between the positive battery cable to the little solenoid wire closet to that to override everything just to see if the starter turns over.
I wouldn't rule out bad solenoid(even new) could tap it with a hammer, and make sure battery puts out enough volts under a load test.
I had a hard time turning over my new motor with what I thought was good batteries(12.5 volts) but they needed a deep charge
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 04:56 PM
  #174  
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OK I'm completely stuck. My build is stalled. I simply cannot find the fault in my starter, ignition circuit. It is a no crank start problem. The solenoid clicks, I get power right to the starter. The starter is new, solenoid new, ignition control mod is new ect...

Any parting comments or advice before I get an 'expert' to find my error, other than the obvious comment on why I bought a bunch of new stuff I probably didn't need to for the truck?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 05:46 PM
  #175  
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Abot 95% of electical problems are ground related. Always.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 10:17 PM
  #176  
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Make sure your NSS is operating correctly. You can also check the ign switch with an ohm meter.

I did lotsa testing before the NSS discovery on my 79. It wasn't hooked up.



You might ask FMC400 for a hand...he seems to be the electrical genius.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 09:58 AM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by HardkaseDaddy
OK I'm completely stuck. My build is stalled. I simply cannot find the fault in my starter, ignition circuit. It is a no crank start problem. The solenoid clicks, I get power right to the starter. The starter is new, solenoid new, ignition control mod is new ect...

Any parting comments or advice before I get an 'expert' to find my error, other than the obvious comment on why I bought a bunch of new stuff I probably didn't need to for the truck?

Check the grounds!! Make sure there's a good ground from the engine to the chassis.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2014 | 08:57 PM
  #178  
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Hey guys,

Thank you very much for the advice. I figured it out. The replacement starter needed a solenoid connector link.

"I bet this is something dumb that I have overlooked..."
I didn't know it but, according to the shop manual I have, if you had a gas powered truck there were two kinds of starters used. One is called a "positive engagement starter". The "positive engagement starter" does not use a solenoid connector link.

The factory used a "solenoid actuated starter" on all 460 engines. This had a hard copper link from the positive terminal on the starter to the solenoid terminal on the solenoid that is attached to the starter. This was in addition to the other hard copper link that went from the attached solenoid to the starter.

Huh! I didn't know that. The old starter I had on the truck was the "positive engagement" kind that I guess was intended for some of the other non-460 gas powered engines in these trucks. Both of these starters looked pretty much the same on the outside to me.
 

Last edited by HardkaseDaddy; Apr 26, 2014 at 09:02 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old May 7, 2014 | 12:32 AM
  #179  
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got the brakes in the truck. the hydroboost unit was too big, so I converted it over to manual brakes. Works ok for me.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 02:57 PM
  #180  
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My son and I had the truck moving two weeks ago. We backed it up and accidentally left a rubber patch in the driveway, AND THEN we blew out the rotten brake lines on the rear brakes. Sooo now I'm trying to get the rear brakes done.

I've ordered in the drums, new springs, shoes. I'm bending up new lines and replacing the old hydraulic line on the back. I took the time to clean up the back hubs a little, and put some paint on them so they look fancy.
 
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