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I ordered a cam kit from the local speed shop. it should be in in two weeks. Now I gotta get the old 460 cleaned up before the parts arrive. Here's some pics of the 460 getting undressed.
I went to the local speed shop with my valve lifters to discuss some valve geometry issues with the owner, and SURPRIZE!!! My the cam kit and billet timing set I ordered last week arrived. I thought it was going to be at least another week. So now I am furiously trying to get the block prepped for its new shiny cam.
I gotta say that everything was going fine until I got down to the spacer on the crank snout that is behind the harmonic balancer. There's a piece of key stock stuck in a notch in the crankj blocking removal of the spacer. I'm a little neurotic and uncertain about using a hammer/drift punch/or pliers on the front of the crankshaft of this 460.
How do I remove the timing cover without messing up the spacer, key stock, crank snout, or crank bearings?
It's interesting how the universe works. I'm in the middle of teardown on the 460 block for the truck and out of the blue a guy who knows a guy who builds and races 460 powered drag cars has a spare motor that he needs to get out of his shop. It's got a stock 460 bottom end with new rings and bearings.
The top end of this motor gets interesting. 292H comp cam, Crane gold roller rockers and roller lifters, oversized stainless valves, and a monstrous intake manifold.
The builder put it on his test stand, broke in the cam... and never got around to using it.
I threw in my core to make the deal happen. This motor went for a fire sale price.
I'm picking it up this weekend. Will post pics when I get it into the truck.
Oh yeah, I figured out how to get the timing chain off without chopping the snout off of the crank. But this is all moot now.
So I've got the new motor in the truck. I had to tune up the headers a bit to make them fit. I've had to go with tall valve covers to give clearance for the high lift cam and the chunky gold valve rockers.
The brake booster (it's about 9" dia.) interferes with the driver's side valve cover. I'm looking at going with manual brakes for now and then springing for a hydroboost brake system when I get some extra money.
RE: manual brakes is... there much to changing this over other than the length of the input shaft from the brake pedal to the master cylinder? some feedback on this would be helpful.
My camera is broken right now. I will post a pic or two when I get a functional camera.
Last edited by HardkaseDaddy; May 23, 2013 at 11:40 AM.
Reason: change title