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Thank you for the feedback on the breathers RWENUTS, and for the suggestion on the mc orangeford. I'm still thinking of going without power brakes. I don't rerally trust the cam on this engine to produce enough vacuum. It's a comp cam with 290 duration, 110 degrees of lobe separation. There are hotter cams out there, but this one might give me problems if I am relying on vacuum for braking power. I would sure like to source a good threaded pushrod for the mastercylinder so I can tune the length of the mc pushrod. Yikes! I just want to make sure this truck will stop.
Another thread in the FTE site with some good information on brake boosters and master cylinders.
I made a little button cluster for a few of the add-ons a couple of weeks ago. I've been working a lot more the last few months so I have been neglecting the green goat for a while. I got these cool toggle switches on Ebay with led lights on the ends of them. Green is for Gas. Red is for Roll control. I left space for one more switch. What will go in the spare spot, I'm not really sure yet (push button start, auxilliary lights, nitrous ...)
Soo while I bent up some metal for the toggle switch panel, my son did his own modification of the cracked steering wheel. Gotta love it! He's a ford guy through and through.
Last edited by HardkaseDaddy; Jun 27, 2013 at 03:06 PM.
Reason: change info
I flashed up the engine in the old truck. It sounds loud and obnoxious. I love it.
I'm still trying to tune it so it will kind of idle. Tuning this motor with the radical cam it has in it is going to be a challenge for me.
Well the motor is pulling coolant into the oil somewhere. I've started to tear down the top end. I'm hoping it's a bad gasket. So far the only fault I have found is a leaking thermostat housing gasket. I went at it after I finished work last ngiht didn't get the intake manifold off yet I would like to examine the intake gaskets, and then remove the heads if necessary.
I have to say this setback is quite discouraging. I am keeping my fingers crossed that there are no cracks in the castings.
I think hydroboost is a good option. I have not gone and found the parts yet.
If you go that route contact Duke point auto recycling just south of nanaimo. They carry all newer trucks. Get one from a 99 up superduty then ship it. I paid $75 for hydro boost,shipping is prob $25
Don't get a older crap car one. Get a newer style hydroboost.
If you go that route contact Duke point auto recycling just south of nanaimo. They carry all newer trucks. Get one from a 99 up superduty then ship it. I paid $75 for hydro boost,shipping is prob $25
Don't get a older crap car one. Get a newer style hydroboost.
Thanks ford guy. I go to Nanaimo often. I'll check them out.
I got the engine put back together. I took it apart and cleaned the mayonnaise out of it. When I tore open the engine the head bolts were torqued to 35 lbs. Water was crossing over the gasket surfaces and mixing in the sump.
Strange... I wonder if the guy I bought it from left the heads loose for a reason, or possibly he just forgot.
Anyway everything looks good for a start up this week. While I was waiting for a gasket kit to come in the mail I took the time to wire up an ignition box from Procomp Electronics. I have a few minor things to take care of, and work keeping me away from the shop for part of this week. I'll post pics later.
Finally got it running last night. The (brand spanking new) HEI distributor had a tiny split ring washer stuck to the main shaft under the advance springs that was holding things up. Chalk this delay up to poor quality control at the Procomp dizzy factory I suppose. Anyway I tore out the dizzy, stripped it down to nothing, found the fault, rebuilt it, reinstalled it AND the engine is back to the land of the living.