Now that winter is here I decided to park my truck in the shop to give me something to do in the evenings. I decided there was three things on my to do list. IDM mod, DIY stage Is, and to convert from mechanical to an electrical fuel system. I know that you can buy kits to do this but part of the fun is trying to gather together all the parts you need. Luckily others have done this before so I didn't have to try and figure out what regulator and filters would work. Here is the list of parts I used and the costs.

Prefilter and base - Stanadyne 33640 (thedieselstore.com) $74.64
Secondary Filter Base - (WIX): 24770 (Fleetfilter.com) $26.00
Secondary Filter - (WIX) 33528 (Fleetfilter.com) $9.00
Fuel Pump - (ebay.com) $114
Fuel Lines - Stainless steel 3/8" under turbo (local) $100
Oil pressure switch - Holley 12-810 (amazon.com) $28.00
Fuel pressure switch - (local) $25.00
Fuel regulator - Aeromotive 13109 (ebay.com) $133
Fuel hose - Parker (international dealer) $5.00
Stainless hose clamps - (home depot) $7.00
Fuel pressure guage - (harbor freight) $5.00
Brass three way connector - (harbor freight) $4.00
Fittings misc brass - (harbor freight) $13.00
Fittings - Parker (local) $37.33
Wire - (local) $5.00
Fuel pump bracket - (wrecking yard) $5.00
Misc stuff - (local) $9.00
Total - $600

The first thing I did was remove the stock filter housing and pump. The only thing I left was the fuel lines coming into the valley from the tanks.

I went to a transmission shop and had some custom made 3/8" stainless steel fuel lines to go under the turbo. These attached to the back of the head and came together with a brass three way air connector. I bent the stock lines by hand into the right positions being careful not to kink them. I did not need to cut them to make them fit.





I fabbed a bracket out of stainless steel to mount the pressure regulator to the bracket on top of the HPOP reservoir. I reused the existing flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads into the fuel regulator.




The wire for the fuel filter restriction was plugged into the fuel pressure sensor to light the dash light if fuel pressure drops below 20lbs.


I went to the wrecking yard and got a fuse box from an F150 so that I could add another relay and fuse to my fuse box. I added the relay in the upper left corner and the large size 30amp fuse furthest to the right. All wiring was run in existing looms where possible. I wanted this whole setup to look as factory as possible.


For the fuel filters I fabbed a couple brackets from stainless and mounted the filters as high up as I could. They are not visible unless you get under the truck. This is only possible on an F350. My F250 doesn't have the depth under the cab in front of the front fuel tank.

I mounted the fuel pump using a bracket from a Ford car that holds the fuel filter. It was just the right size and worked perfect. It might have been easier to just use a SD pump but that would have cost me more.

The oil pressure sensor was installed in the rear oil cooler header. I used a rubber boot from a BMW at the wrecking yard. I was surprised how well it fit.

I also added a inertia safety switch from another Ford car. I spent quite some time looking in the engine compartment until I realized they were located in the trunk


Here is a basic wiring diagram.



When I got finished I took it for a spin. All I can say is I've never felt anything like it before! I just wonder how long my tranny is going to last now I have a TW chip with the street race position but it hasn't been reprogramed for the new Stage 1s I put in or the other mods. Anyhow all I can say is this is a different truck.

 

Nice job! Reps sent.
Very thorough...right down to the inertial switch. I've seen a couple that didn't have one...
I really like the low pressure switch...I wonder if these things will run with 20 psi??

 

Nice writeup. Very good detail.
I think I remember seeing this same writeup somewhere else...

You did a good job.

One question, how did you know what angles to have the tranny shop bend the fuel lines.
And, well two questions, what type fittings and size did you use on the back of the heads

 

Yes, they will. I've had the light come on when I've mashed it. I think a super duty pump will fix that issue.

 

I posted this on another forum. Someone here asked about doing the electrical conversion so I decided to post it here.

I took the factory banjo in as a guide but I still had to make a few trips in to get the angles just right to line up correctly with the three way.

I will have to look at the part numbers for the fittings on the back of the head. I reused the angle fitting on the right side.

 

Good write up and great pictures. Reps sent.

 

I thought that was your post.

The reason I ask about the angles is because I have an H2e and the mount plate is pretty tight on there. Lower than the stock pedestal. I guess I will have to just wing it on that note. Having a tubing bender would be a great idea when it comes to this project I am sure.

Also what type pump is that?

 

Reps sent. What did you plug the holes with where the stock lift pump was?

 

another quick question, I am looking at fuel pumps for superdutys on car-parts. Is it the supply pump or injection pump?

 

Great Job Joe!! I like your install!

Kevin it would be the supply pump.

 

Neil
Instead of messing with all the hard line and the vibra-lok fittings it would be easier to just use some stainless steel braided fuel line to supply the heads. The fuel ports in the head are 1/8 NPT, that makes it easy to adapt to JIC to match the fittings on the braided lines.

Kevin
Just use a freeze plug to seal the hole where the mechanical pump was.

 

Rodney what type of hose ends work best if SS braided is used? Crimp fittings like hydraulic hose or those reusable screw down fittings you see in Jegs?

 

Thanks guys. This was next on my list of things to do.
And Joe I must say that is the cleanest motor I have ever seen. It would take me 100 cans of gunk to get mine like that.

 

Tim
I've got 9 SS braided lines and they all have crimped fittings. Screw on fitting should work fine though, I have push-lok fittings on the line from the pumps up to the "T" in the valley.

 

Way cool. Love that clean valley.

Pete