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the system will circulate a little fuel to a sense i guess. when you turn on the pump it will build pressure and won't circulate any fuel until you reach the desire fuel pressure that you set it at then it will bleed off the excess fuel.
i personally like the oil pressure switch. it doesn't need the toggle switch. as soon as i start cranking it the pressure is building. it will get up to pressure before the engine starts and it actually starts faster now than when i had the stock system. i don't see why y'all don't like the oil pressure switch. if it fails then just run the hot wire up to the positive on the battery and it will run then u just gotta get a new switch. not much of a point to put it on a toggle switch unless your just looking for an excuse to put in yet another switch in your cab like William.
oh and mine uses the oil pressure switch and an inertia switch.
Doing a little more diggin' tonight on electric fuel systems. Came across this thread on the "other" site. Have to give credit to Cowboy Dan on this one.
He has a list of fittings and part numbers. The one thing that really caught my eye with his setup is that he used the existing banjo fitting in the valley and used an adapter instead of a 3 way. That seems a lot simpler way to go?
I'm going to call the manufacture of this fitting tomorrow and get one ordered. I want to keep my steel lines in the valley for simplicity reasons. My only question is where would I mount my fuel pressure restriction sensor?
On the pressure regulator... I know I have to use -6 AN with an o-ring on all 3 connections to it, but what is the size of the fitting coming off of the heads?
Below the regulator is another -6 AN fitting that needs to be adapted to a barb for the supply back to tank right?
On the pressure regulator... I know I have to use -6 AN with an o-ring on all 3 connections to it, but what is the size of the fitting coming off of the heads?
Below the regulator is another -6 AN fitting that needs to be adapted to a barb for the supply back to tank right?
If you're talking about where the fuel lines feed the heads stock, that fitting into the head is a 1/8" NPT. You'll need a 1/8" NPT to -6AN for them.
No, this in on the return from the heads to the regulator.
I'd imagine they would be 1/8 NPT to -6AN though? The regulator is - 6AN.
Either way, it's the same fitting going into the heads. The fronts are the same as the rears. You'll need a 1/8NPT to -6AN male to connect your hose from the regulator to the head.
Not to bring up a 10 year old thread....but just curios as far as the guys who used the stainless braided/pushlock rubber fuel lines go. I feel like they would be the easiest to use but my big concern is how close they are to the turbo and the heat that the turbo kicks off. How are your lines holding up guys who used rubber/stainless braided? Any problems with them leaking caused by the heat of the turbo?
i found this one day while surfing you tube....don't know the product maker and haven't used it but it looks promising. also it seems as though he used the stock regulator and filter bowl which for some might make this more affordable at first.
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