Electric Fuel Conversion

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Feb 3, 2010 | 05:06 PM

#46

Talyn

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From: Ashland City, TN

Sounds good Kevin. I'll look into the SD pump system.

Seems like the big components moneywise on this system is the regulator and the pump.
Then behind those would be the filter system.

Feb 3, 2010 | 10:37 PM

#47

crash1

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From: bellingham ,Washington

so with that combo there do you need the pressure reg. then? or can you run strait from sd pump into stage ones .

Feb 6, 2010 | 04:20 PM

#48

KevinC.

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From: Ocala

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talyn

Sounds good Kevin. I'll look into the SD pump system.

Seems like the big components moneywise on this system is the regulator and the pump.
Then behind those would be the filter system.

There is a lot of money in the filters and filter heads. The pump was only 140 and so was the regulator. I think the filters and heads were a little more than that. Theres a lot of money in all the fittings also, those things add up. Total cost was around 600.00.

Feb 8, 2010 | 09:43 AM

#49

Talyn

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From: Ashland City, TN

Now just to get a better understanding of the systems, and I should be able to come up with something.

Feb 8, 2010 | 12:56 PM

#50

FARM69

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From: Kearney, Nebr

Does anyone have any good sources to SS braided hose (teflon rated)? It sounds like the crimp or push-lock fittings are the way to go on these. I'd rather use the 1/8 npt to jic fittings but I don't think they well fit because of the turbo mount.

Feb 8, 2010 | 06:39 PM

#51

Talyn

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From: Ashland City, TN

In was thinking pushloc too as well.
Just for the simplicity also.

Feb 8, 2010 | 07:18 PM

#52

crash1

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From: bellingham ,Washington

so with that combo there do you need the pressure reg. then? or can you run strait from sd pump into stage ones .
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Feb 8, 2010 | 07:26 PM

#53

strokersace

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 1,766

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From: Hutchinson, KS

Quote:

Originally Posted by crash1

so with that combo there do you need the pressure reg. then? or can you run strait from sd pump into stage ones .
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No you still need a regulator between the pump and the motor. And you can not use the stock fuel bowl/regulator because it's not built for an electric fuel pump that supplies pressure all the time. You'll want to delete your fuel bowl from the motor and add a 'spin-on' one between the pump and motor. Then on the motor, install an aftermarket regulator, like a Fuelab or Aeromotive.

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Feb 8, 2010 | 07:36 PM

#54

crash1

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From: bellingham ,Washington

I know its been said in here ,but the injectors run at 70 pounds right.Is there a ele. pump out there that can do this deal with out the reg. .Just a question dont yell at me please . llol

Feb 9, 2010 | 05:49 AM

#55

DZL JIM

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Joined: Sep 2003

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From: North East Ohio

60 - 65 psi is best. 60 is good all around. We actaully lost hp on the dyno going 70 psi and more.

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Feb 9, 2010 | 06:48 AM

#56

tjbeggs

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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI

Quote:

Originally Posted by FARM69

I don't know if their prices are inline but I know the people personally cause they are about 3 miles from here. But anyway Check out Chassis Shop. They are dune buggy parts people but they have all of the teflon/braid hose you could need and the fittings. They also carry prefabbed lengths.
Speed Flex Pre-Assembled Hose at The Chassis Shop
I think their catalog is online too browse that its full handy stuff!