very nice.... i have been thining about doing this conversion for some time... but still not sure about how to go about doing this... the pedistal seals became a project in themselves lol

 

I looked through their website and it appears that the largest they carry is -4. I like the idea of having prefabbed hose like they offer. How long do you think the hose needs to be to go from the back of the heads to the 3-way?

Ideally, I'd like to run -6 an to the slip and then regular Goodyear hose after the 3-way.

 

I think I remember that now that you say it. I ran into that when I was researching my own system.
I think 12 inches would be enough but its been a while since I have looked that close at the distance. I will see if I can look at my spare motor when I get work today.

 

Alright guys, just doing some thinking in my head. I have the major componets to the system except the fittings and hoses.

My questions are...

1) The OP talked about a fuel pressure switch. Is here referring the the inertial switch? With my setup I plan on running the oil pressure switch only which is possible right?

2) Because I have a different turbo mount I'm pretty sure my passenger fuel supply is going to be tight. I have to bend the factory line slightly in order to get the plate in. I need to check to see how much clearence I have, but if I can't get a fitting in there can I just run the stock line farther down? I would probably have to scratch the braided hose idea and just use Goodyear 30R9 with regular hose clamps. Perhaps remove the line and weld a little barb on it?

3) Still need some clarification on the wiring. Can someone explain the wiring diagram a little better? I'm electrically challenged. Lol.

The more I think about it I want to use the push-loc's instead of steel braid. Plus it's a little cheaper and it looks like there is several guys running this setup already.

I'm shooting to start this project on the 5th of March. Plenty of lead time so I can have all of my ducks in a row.

 

I wish I could afford this one right now.

The clutch and some other things come first.

I figure for me, i'll have everything around and setup, and if i get bored one day, maybe put it in, or just wait for mechanical to fail.

 

Saw this thread tonight from the "other guys." Looks like a great write up. Have to give credit to Rantheman for this one.

Some Updating and upgrading - Powerstroke Nation

 

Hmm, thinking of the sensor setup.
The one guy put in the inertia sensor, and that is cool cause power = fuel.
but, I'd rather run the oil sensor as well.

But, i would also like to be able to have fuel pressure before cranking.
Could throw in a bypass switch for startup.

My other thought on it though, would be that the fuel would circulate in the system?
Will the return work with the motor off?

 

bump bump bump

 

how and what regs the pressure in the stock filter unit....???

 

the unit that is on the side of the Filter regulator.

 

so can that be tied in to the electric system or what?

 

No, We talked about it in another thread, you basically elimiate the original fuel setup including the bowl and add in a better regulator, that regulator isn't designed for constant pressure all the time. Our system changes fuel pressure with the motor.

 

ah i see ok.

 

Eliminating the fuel bowl is the main thing with this system. The better fuel regulator will be better as well, you'll always have that good constant pressure on the system for better performance, as well as being able to tweak it to make your truck run the best.

 

[QUOTE=FARM69;8502647]Alright guys, just doing some thinking in my head. I have the major componets to the system except the fittings and hoses.

My questions are...

1) The OP talked about a fuel pressure switch. Is here referring the the inertial switch? With my setup I plan on running the oil pressure switch only which is possible right?

I ran "just the oil pressure switch and she works great

2) Because I have a different turbo mount I'm pretty sure my passenger fuel supply is going to be tight. I have to bend the factory line slightly in order to get the plate in. I need to check to see how much clearence I have, but if I can't get a fitting in there can I just run the stock line farther down? I would probably have to scratch the braided hose idea and just use Goodyear 30R9 with regular hose clamps. Perhaps remove the line and weld a little barb on it?
I ended up using my old steel lines and switching to rubber. Check out my webshots farm. i have an H2E and i was worried about running my pass side line. not sure if my pics show the rubber as i try to remember. they def show you how i got around the turbo