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Unless you've got 5 grand to drop on a new plow then you've got to find yourself one already set up with a plow.
Whatever you do make sure it's a name brand plow like Meyers, Fisher, Western, Boss, Blizzard, etc.
The plow on that ^ truck is a "Diamond" and it's a hunk of junk.
5 GRAND!!!! WOW! I was thinking of getting a boss plow, I figure with my spring, summer, and fall job i could pay for the truck and maybe half of the plow, and then pay off the plow with snow plowing. How hard is it to get plowing contracts Pete?
Depends. I don't know the market in your area. Most contracted snow clearing is for large lots like shopping centers.
I plan to try to pick up a property maintenance contract at a trucking terminal next season. It's for mowing during the mowing months and snow clearing during the snowing months. I also want to pick up a contract to mow two cemeteries one of the towns here has taken control of.
If I was to get a new plow it would be a Boss V without a doubt. The truck we're looking at has an 8' straight blade Fisher.
I had a 78 f250 4x4 400 auto 8'fischer plow, an 84 f250 4x4 302 4 speed with 8' fischer plow, an 85 f150 4x4 300 5 speed, and an 86 f250 4x4 460 auto with 8' fischer, all with power angle blades...I would buy another auto anytime...I found it faster for short runs of 1000 foot or so...I would back up and angle the blade the other way and push the snow down the other side of the street,,,no huge snowbanks at the end of the road that way...
I could drive down the road about 25 mph, kick it into 2wd, tap the brakes and turn the wheel a bit, the rear end would swing around, drop it back into 4wd, drop the plow and plow straight down the street!
the 4 speed had a granny gear and backing up was too slow...I usually turned around when plowing with it...I liked the fischer plow because I used to build huge snow banks of heavy wet snow and sometimes I'd get stuck with the blade lifted...I could pull the pins, drop the chain and usually back out, hook a chain to the plow and drag it out of the snowbank and be hooked back up in under 5 minutes.
the only real trouble I had was the damn plow was freekin heavy...a couple times I was away from home with the plow on and the temps would rise above 40 and the truck would run hot...I would unhook the plow and stand it up on end, get one side up on the tailgate and then pick the other end up and slide it in.
I prefer the auto trans because I dislike sore shoulders. Lots nicer when you have some pull up behind you at a stoplight on a steep hill.
I can drive stick pretty well, but when I get someone right behind me on a hill and I have to stop I get nervous and end up stalling it.
Last storm I had this jerk come up behind me at a stop light that was flat (fortunately)
He pulled up so close that I bet his front bumper was touching my mud flaps. At the end of the road I was going onto was a stoplight with a steep hill you have to stop on. I didn't want him behind me cause he'd be the type of idiot who would sue me when he didn't allow proper distances between vehicles.
Note: When stopped at a stoplight you should be able to see the bottom of the rear tires of the vehicle in front of you as well as some asphalt. I bet that jerk couldn't even see the bottom 3/4 of my tires nevermind asphalt.
So back to the story: I was pulling onto that road which was posted at 25mph. I never took the truck above 15mph. Most people run that road at 40 or so. Needless to say that impatient jerk was no longer behind me when I reached the stoplight ahead.
Edit: Here's something just for you, Sheldon. This is my dirt chariot as of this summer when it was actually warm outside. I miss warmness.
Unless you've got 5 grand to drop on a new plow then you've got to find yourself one already set up with a plow.
Whatever you do make sure it's a name brand plow like Meyers, Fisher, Western, Boss, Blizzard, etc.
The plow on that ^ truck is a "Diamond" and it's a hunk of junk.
You can pickup a std boss blade for less than around 3500 IIRC. That is what I have and it works great. Just get a 7 1/2 foot and put some pro wings on it. A 5k V plow would be nice, but I make just as much with my straight blade as most of my work is by the hour.
BTW I plow 90% of the time in 2wd. Normally only hit 4 when I am trying to push the pile higher.
Thanks Pete I've never plowed snow with a truck, always with a skidsteer. Do real aggressive tires help when plowing snow my project plow truck was gonna have to be 2wd. You know what I'm probbaly better just buying and old F-350 dually with an old mechanical 7.3L and turn that into my plow truck.
Ive seen 2wd duallys do fine as long as they have a spreader in the back. The problem with 2 wd is getting to the job once your start plowing the rear tires shouldnt have a problem.
Originally Posted by 7.3 Rocket
2: A SRW truck with narrow tires and some ballast of any type. A sander is really not within the legal weight on a SRW truck.
The stick shift has its benefits and drawbacks. Plow trucks can tend to go through transmissions because of the repeated back and forth movement that comes with plowing. A manual transmission is much cheaper and easier to replace. An automatic transmission, while more expensive, is much easier on your shoulders. The day after you spend a day in a stick shift plow truck your shoulder will probably be pretty sore
Im not so sure on the legal weight thing. Legally a 5.4 can haul more weight than a 7.3 because the diesel weighs more. The dually is rated for more but the legal GVW should be the same. Ive seen plenty of SRW trucks haul a full load of salt. Personally Id only do it if it was one of those newer plastic ones instead of the stainless steel ones since its ALOT lighter
It also doesnt help the trans that no air flow goes over the trans cooler at 3 MPH.
Originally Posted by Smokin'
Speaking of plowing, I want to get a little plow for my Kodiak. Those buggers are surprisingly expensive.
I paid 500 for mine. It was a 48in blade, and had to manually lift the blade everytime.
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